Brad-ManQ45

The reason that the ride is suppler than the 15/60 setup inspite of the reduction in sidewall height is the higher loading of the tire contact patch along with the lower unsprung weight. One has to be careful when changing tire sizes to make sure that the load capacity stays near the same or higher than stock, or else at high speeds or heavy cornering the tires won't hold up to the demands put upon them. A great example of this is the '90-'96 Q45 (4000 lbs + passengers). Stock tire was a special Michelin 215/65/15 tire on 6" rims. The current crop of tires this size's load ratings are about 25% below the original tire specs. To get a current tire with the load capacity that that special tire had nowadays you have to get a Michelin 235/60/15 Pilot HGT4 (actually a smidge higher in load capacity). This is a bit big for 6" rims, but the other choice is a 225/60/15 which is smaller in diameter and no extra load capacity. Fortunately I have aftermarket 7" rims, and love the Pilots, although the Q can chew tires UP!.

I have the needle-scalar attachment that I will be using. After everything is down to metal and floorpans replaced and subchassis connectors put in, I wil put on 3 coats of Zero Rust, the either 3M undercoating or bedliner...

JMHO, but anyone driving at night with those things is seriously drain bamaged. Why cut down on the light that lets you see where you're going. I have refused rides at night from these mental midgets...

When I lived in Round Rock, Texas we had a bad hail storm. My wife and I were out back under the covered porch when we heard a loud bang on the roof, then saw a hail stone between the size of a baseball and softball land 3 feet ftom the edge of the patio. We got it and kept it in the freezer until we moved to Atlanta, showing everyone that it CAN get that big.

Sorry, don't know the answer to this one.

In a 2 year period, my 280 ZXT was backed into TWICE and my Q45 ONCE by women. I think there is something about the physical act of putting a car in reverse that disconnects their brain.... Glad it wasn't any worse.

HGS130 is a 280ZX and will not fit a 280Z. At least I THINK that's what you are asking. You could provide a link so, we can see what you're trying to say...

Very nice - what did you use to form the vents?

Please let us know what you decide!

Kewl-glad you found the problem.

If you are going to be building cages/Roll Bars for NHRA using 4130, the rules state TIG is mandatory. For mild steel, MIG or TIG. Please note the following phrasing: All 4130 chrome moly tube welding must be done by approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel welding must be done by approved MIG wire feed or approved TIG heliarc process. IIf this is going to be a for-money operation, then I don't see how you can NOT have a MIG setup for the mild steel/autobody/exhaust work. On the other hand, for serious racing you NEED the TIG - no doubt. Assuming you need to meet NHRA guidelines then: My advice (and I'm sure it's not worth that much to you) is get something like the new Hobart 140 which is supposed to be great for sheetmetal/exhaust/mild steel AND the best TIG you can afford. For the type of aluminum you are talking about, the Miller Syncrowave 180 would work. The two together would cost less than the pulser. For that matter, the MM210 and Syncrowave would not be much more than the pulser and still below $3k...but if you wanted to run them both at the same time you'd need 2 outlets...(I was assuming that you have the 120V for the 140) Production-wise if this is a one-man shop you win because those things you CAN use MIG for will take less time to complete and the consumables will cost less. It doesn't take that much practice to start getting good welds with MIG. Even if it is not a one-man shop, and you have two people that can weld, having two machines means potentially more production when one doesn't have to wait on the other. Consumables for TIG do run more. As far as the Invertig: The Invertig 201 is made by Stel in Italy - HTP is only a reseller - I don't know how good the parts availability would be on it if something went wrong, but have heard that customer service is good, prompt and technically competent. I still would worry about parts... Once again JMOVHO - use the process that best meets the needs. Having both would certainly give you flexibility.

The very easiest thing to check is the headlight bulb itself. I looked through the posts above and if you stated you checked this then - my bad. A simple volt/ohm meter or test light will tell you if you are getting current to the low beam filament of the headlight. Unplug the connector on the bulb with the lowbeams on and stick a test light in each of the slots (use the pointed end for this - the alligator clip goes to a good ground) Don't worry about anything else until you have determined that the bulb itself is not shot.

Either your low beam filament is burned out or you have a wiring problem. My vote is filament.

If I'm wrong, somebody please correct me: Years ago after the LT1 engine came out there was a discussion about eliminating EGR. Someone came back and said that the use of EGR at part throttle allowed more ignition advance and better gas mileage. They further stated that since EGR doesn't work at full throttle, there was really no reason to remove it. I would suspect the LS1 would fall in this same category - the degree of control the computer has on the engine is what is responsible for its' good power and mileage performance. JMHT - FWIW

Please do a search on rust. This has been beaten to death here and I doubt anyone really wants to open it up again...

HF has the following that works for me...: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?CategoryID=370&pricetype=

First: If you lower the car more than 1.5 to 2 inches you have to section the struts to have enough suspension travel - that means welding... Second: Some just cut off the spring perch and use that for setting the collar on - no welding.

Return it. Get the Hobart 135 - don't get the 125 - the cost go convert to gas is too much. The 135/140 already has it all. The Sears stuff is hard to get parts for and doesn't weld well.

It was much easier to scan through stiff the old way, rather than jumping around...

I used the 251 at the local vo-tech and loved it. Ebogh that I got the MM175 and put a circuit up to the garage for it. From what I have been able to gather, Miller's customer service is the best out there for us little guys. I haven't heard complaints about HTP, but that other red one I've heard stories about.... Having trained on blue it was easy to stick with, but Miller and Hobart - both built in same factory - both have forums for everyone. There is also another welding forum that you can check out: http://www.weldingweb.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1 They just now had someone ask about this machine and got a few responses.

Personally, I always thought the L-88 hood was the best looking...

Zero Rust is the product... http://www.zerorust.com/ Do a search for Zero and Rust and you will find a couple of threads here...

My '83 ZXT has an oval cannister muffler (DynoMax) that is 20 long (body) ~9" wide and ~4" hihg and it fits no problem. 3" straight though. Works great with the turbo - throaty at idle and doesn't get too loud like the flowmaster did. I love it!

When my company switched to XP, I was one of the first programmers to have to deal with the XP upgrade, and what it did to VB utilizing/testing COM components was a mess - I figured out what needed to be done, but just upgrading to XP would not allow what had worked on 2000 in the development environment - had to manually create a package and drop the component into it in order for it to work in the development environment. With 2000, no pproblem - code the component and run it...

FWIW - I don't believe in using Flowmaster/Spintech/PressureWave technology type mufflers on turbocharged cars - a lot of the noice cancellation ability seems to be lost with the milder pulsations. When I switched form Flowmaster to Dynomax UltraFlow, I picked up power and got a lot quieter...