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HybridZ

AK-Z

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Everything posted by AK-Z

  1. Haha... noyce. I'm starting to wait for your vids like I do mulls haha.
  2. Man. I was considering tranfering to portland for school. Well I'm going to have to get someone else to drive
  3. Hmm. Maybe I should read some of his old posts on the engine mount designs. Now my problem is mounting the L28 5 speed to the KA block and having the clutch measurements right. I know the KA trans to the L28 block has been done, but not the other way around.
  4. daym. that turbo is almost a 4th of the size of the engine.
  5. I was thinking of using a 9V battery and contacting the points and reversse flow to clean them. Good or bad idea? Aren't they high impedence? I forgot how many cc the stock ones flow (that was a question I gues:p).
  6. BOV? or check the crank angle sensor?
  7. Let me tell ya. I'm still trying to figure out everything with my KA swap. Everything kinda stops up here when winter hits . I still don't know what I'm going to do with the tranny, don't want to use the stock KA auto trans. trying to see if I can mount the old L28 5speed (working with what I have), and whether to leave the R180 diff in there or swap it with the R200 I have in the parts car. Engine location and so on. I don't recall anyone doing a KA swap besides me and I haven't made any real progress. Wish there was someone that I can use as a refference with for this stuff. I agree with ProjectSR20. the KA block is pretty strong, its just that the engine wasn't engineered with FI in mind. Its considered to be stronger than the SR block (KA-T.org, source), its just the SR20DET has less compression, thus can handle more air volume.
  8. That is correct in what I was saying. The "door style" changed IIRC in mid production span of the 260z and the 280z. So I believe the 260z had 2 door designs, same with the 280z. What type of door striker do you have? The mounting plate design or the striker rod design? I believe the late model 260z and the early 280z shared the same design (Don't quot me on that). Both of my 280z have different door designs. Glass is interchangable between them, everything else can't. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0019.html
  9. its not that hard. You need to remove the door interior, then you have to remove most of the window regulator hardware and then remove the window through the same hole that the window closes and opens. Then you can unmount the window from the mount. The bolts that can be loosened that holds the window in are facing on the outter side of the door.
  10. If you feel flu like symptoms after. Drink ALOT of milk. It helps pull some of the heavy metal toxins, but not a sure treatment, but doesn't hurt to try, if it does happen.
  11. I agree, but in defence. Why not? A laptop is more easily able to flop around and break on you than a mounted unit. Some of the stupidest thing turned out to be the greatest (Wright bros. ) With linux, its not really difficult to mess with. Its just getting use to the interface. You can setup a bootable CD distro. I've been messing with RH enough to get my RHD cert. I don't recommend that for this application, I suggest using Knoppix. And for setting up the comp to use a removable media as a OS source, you would have to mess with the BIOS settings (Same process in both windows and Linux).
  12. Sad to say I am pretty sure that it won't. I do have a 280z (first gen) driver side glass if you want to buy it. I'll post pics later
  13. DC to DC transformer (Actually 3 in one circuit). Also called a DC to DC micro ATX PSU. I suggest using a solid-state HDD. Regular driving conditions might cause a standard HDD to crash over time.
  14. Looks the same at the 280z. Could be fromt the 80-81 turbo versions, before they went CAS in the dizzy.
  15. the rack/pinion design is better than the recirculating ball (power steering ie. PS). I don't advise this because its a lot of fabbing for ultimately what you are going to remove. When the car is traveling the steering becomes lighter. Just have to beef up those arms. But, there are some on here that have done a power rack/pinion conversion from a Masda MX-5 and WRX IIRC. Which I suggest in doing, if you REALLY want to have power steering.
  16. Your going to have fun with wiring, but thats with about any swap. Also check clearences and driveline angles. Swaps (hybrids) are always engineering in progress XD.
  17. Try MSA or BlackDragon (or what ever they are called). Well about good pieces. the trunk deck panel (not the door section, but the one over the taillights). Carbs, wheels, half-shafts, steering rack assembily.
  18. Platinum plugs are crap. Platinum is a poor conductor and multi-point plugs ar pointless IMO. Spark usually only arcs over one point to another. Just companies wanting more money. Don't know about iridium though. Maybe the spark plug circuit is causing his auto trans to not shift up because of false readings? or his clutch is slipping.
  19. AK-Z

    Found a 240z...

    I wish mine were in that condition. For $2000, I would of said to pass it up (because of it not running and valve problem). For $1200, I say go for it. About $200 to replace the head (inless you want to rebuild that one) and electrical just takes time to find the problem.
  20. So what ECU do you have? ECUs tend to run on presets when its not getting a proper read from a sensor. Check the connection to the temp sensor and any other sensor that comes to mind.
  21. Also in the same area, the drain for the wiper compartment. Behind the dash, there is a big rubber hose that attaches to the compartment to the drain behind the lower front fender quarter panel (next to the door). That can wear out and leak.
  22. This might be the problem (God forbid). The floor is rusted through. I have had 2 Z cars and can vouche for that. Look under the car. It might be hidden under the under coating. Try tapping with a screwdriver ( not stabbing) around the front of the footwell and the area under the seat, where the cross member support for the seat is. Floor and fenders are the first things to go, by rust, on these cars
  23. to asnwer the title question. WD-40, then wipe it down with a solvent when ready for paint
  24. Walmart in the auto paint section. remember "GREY LABEL" not black
  25. I got an english one if you want it.
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