AK-Z

my answer is... idk. Since your question is not descriptive enough

lol, but it made you click the thread, didn't it lol

shelby's "g-nose" version of the cobra

Oops, didn't realize

if i could find a decent one up here, i would

You're going to have be reaching from under the bumper, should just be 2x 17mm nuts holding it on the the bumper shock IIRC, You can keep the other one attached and just pivot the bumper out of the way.

thats what I was going to ask

just see if you can manage to un-compress the bumper shock. It will probably be difficult to move since its compressed at a slight angle. So unbolt the bumper and try to see if you can move it.

I would assume that the 4wd version would be longer because of the transfer case. I would think you can still run it, if you just kept in 2wd, but then it would be heavier and fitment in tunnel would be awfully tight.

I just say, blast the cover, polish and then a shot of clear

$600?!?! Thats how much I paid for, for my turbo setup and ECU and Caltune on the ECU. As far as going electric, More power doesn't necessarily mean more speed. By this I mean, adding more batteries, means more power, but also means more weight. Look for batteries with the highest voltage AND mAh, with the least amount of weight. Voltage=power mAh (mili amps)= how long the batteries will last on a charge.

Have you tried removing the door panel? Might be as simple as something coming loose

Hmmm. Pretty disappointing for me , for my setup, Since I'm going to running a KA-T with a tube chassis up front. I thought I would be able make sub 2200 lbs empty.

Have you tried pulling the handle while the door is opened, holding it, and messing with the latch?

Eh. prices seems to be ok, but shipping for me would tear me a new one I rather just surprise the sellers on ebay with how much shipping is when they just put flat rate shipping w/o a non-48 clause

Makes me like the movie even more. DONUTS lol BTW the song at the end is korean, not japanese

Angle grinder used for buffing - you're going to melt something. Buffer used as an angle grinder - torque-less wonder For a buffer, bigger is better. Same with the grinder, but I find using a smaller wheel to be more handy.

Not only that, but the actual frame in the chassis is slightly different. Meaning the door won't seal properly if you manage to fit one door a non fitting chassis. The hinges will fit without any problems, and you can even get the to "fit" along the body lines. My first Z had a 75 door on a 78 chassis, pretty much is the cause of my floors disappearing before the previous owner gave it to me

eh, found a replacement housing for like $100 and its ported to the 20g size. Not too concerned now. Now I just need an actuator

Absolutely no shaft play as far as bearings are concerned. manifold side down pipe side

I just got my turbo for $40 , but there is some issues. 1. Looking at the turbine housing where the stock wastegate flap was (inside), there are hairline cracks. No cracks on the outside. 2. Missing wastegate flap and actuator, because of that, there is a hole where the arm use to be. 3. uses a weird 4 bolt flange on the downpipe side, but comes with new flange so I can weld my own downpipe. What can I do with it? I've tried to find a turbine housing, but I don't know what will work. Its a TD05H (I think 16g and going on a KA)

made me lol worst car commercial- my contribution http://www.youtube.com/results?search_type=&search_query=gm+ev1+commercial&aq=0&oq=gm+ev1+com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5TLUIU5KFI

both sets of mine were big screws

Well you guys are lucky. You don't have a volcano that erupted a month ago a couple hundred miles away shooting ash everywhere , and a giant spruce tree in your front yard that flings pine needles EVERYWHERE. I just expect to wetsand and spray MANY light layers.

Hmmm. makes me want to brush off my loss-wax skills and cast me a new intake manifold for my KA