alexideways

The pulsar engine would be nice if you intend on staying stock as it's the most powerfull stock SR20 nissan has put out but if you start modifiing, I don't think it's worth it unless you don't pay more than another Sylvia SR. + All the coolant hoses won't line up and the harness plugs won't be in the same spot so,you'll have a whole bunch of parts to source elsewere.

How about 2 20B's butted together, in line 6 rotors, that would sound... how would it sound? any toughts? Any ways, it would be too heavy and long for any practical use I guess.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!

I don't know if this is an answer to my post but, if it is, I just want to say that I was in no way against the idea of the 240 sx dash. When I said "why no just..." I meant istead of trying to relocate the e-brake lever or having line-locks, would it be possible to build an hydrolic system?

Well for me, running NO cat. at all is allways a bad idea.

Why not just go hydrolic on the e-brake, you could even do something like the lamborghini murtcielago and add a second caliper for the hydrolic e-brake.

Hi, I know I'm a bit late for this topic but here it goes anyways. VLSD's where designed so that most people can drive there RWD cars in the snow, just look at the 240sx, I know you guys in the U.S. had the VLSD as an option but here in Canada all 240sx's had the VLSD cause whe have some pretty ruff winters here + as it was stated before the VLSD need's heat to opperate, that means that one wheel NEED's to spin for a while before it start's grabbing, on top of that, over time, if the diff is abused, the sillicone based fluid inside the unit tend to degrade and loose it's efficiency and it's very hard to fix it, you have to drill a hole to empty it then find something suitable to fill it back then, either weld the hole shut or tap the hole and screw in a plug. I know all of this cause I owned a bunch of 240 SX's and had mutch troubble with these units as the power went up. Just my "late" 2 cents.

On a more cheerful note (but the guy is right) I have a friend who did a SR swap in his NX2000, wich is the same platforme, and it was really awsome, I've seen him beat up on mildly built stangs. The only thing is you need a front clip cause allmost nothing under the hood of your car would be reused.

He meant adjusting the valves while engine is running. You remove the covers, start the engine and turn the adjusting nuts untill it stops making noise. You better do it with engin hot or you`ll have some suprises when it heats up and the "allready tight" valves start to expand.

A winter beater Z!!!! That would just break my heart.

Thanks guys, I guess you're right, it's just that I love to fabticate. But I'll check on those pans at my local Nissan dealer.

Well, the only english version of the "paper" manual I'v heard of, came from Australia so, check your local dealer for a copy. It's worth the try I guess. Good luck.

How does the rear sump pan deal with the trnny reinforcement brackets as I'm thinking about building my own pan and wanted to know what to do about those? Sould I build the rear of the pan from thicker material?

Thanks, very inspiring as I'm about to go down the same path, with RB swap in the process. The car is going into hibernation soon and'll wake up like a brand new car with a modern heart beat.

Wow, it's the first time I see this car in full attack mode, the only other time i saw it moving was when I saw a biography of Juan Pablo Montoya, he was doing doghnuts and burnouts in downtown Rio with nobody bothering him. It was also the first time I was even aware that sutch a car existed but, since the owner was an F1 driver I tought that it'd be far more expensive than 72000 pds.

No, I was talking about the fact that I sold my bunch of parts in favor of an almost new RB25 to perform my RB30 swap and then in the same post I said that me and a frien had found an 1949 roadmaster that we'll get for free. That thing has an inline 8cyl. I wonder what kind of power I could get out of this with EFI and a big turbo LOL. P.S.: I really like your Z Mech.

I'm still on it, just going to swap the block of the 25 for the 30 but, for the price I figured that it was worth it. At first, I tought I'd save by buying parts for cheap here and there but as I was adding evrything up, I figured that it'd be cheaper to buy a whole, working engin and just swap the bottom end plus, with everything I sold, my engin just cost me 600$ so, it truely is a big step forward. + I only have one block left to sell out of 3 so, all in all it'll be very cheap for me, I was truely lucky.

I would have put the vette money in the Z instead bu, that's just me. Man that rock must be huge, I'd sure like it if my girl'd give me a car but thenagain, I never proposed. Hope you enjoy the new found power.

I just made a big leap forward, I sold my block, head, turbo and all the bits and parts I was collecting for $2000 because... I just found a rb25det that has 18 000 KM on it with transmition, uncut harness, ecu and afm for $2600CAN. So, has the car will soon go into hibernation out goes the ol' L24 and in goes the RB, wich me luck and I'll try to upload some pics as i go along to make somekind of a "How to" manual. + Me and a friend just found, in a field of a farmer he knows, a 1949 Buik Roadmaster, the car was left there 10 years ago by a guy from the village who asked to park the car there but, never came back, so we called the police, the car is'nt stollen and belongs to a dead guy so, we're filling forms to gain posession of the vehicle trough the farmer. FREE!!!!!! I'll try to post pics of that to, restoring a framed car is a joke compared to are small unibodys.

Did you check if the idle screw makes anything move, maybe you have a broken part in there, juat an idea that whent trough my mind, I don't know mutch about carbs exept that the make a hell of a nice sound and they use to make my little Rabbit go very fast in a very short time.

When I was younger, I had a Rabbit with a 2.0L 16 valve engine fed by twin mikkuni's and a G60 blower, for it to work correctly (or so i tought at the time) I had built some kind of a header but for the intake. The filter was hooked to a big 3" pipe that seperated into 4 smaller pipes, my question here is would'nt it solve all those turbulance problems to have your TB hooked in the same way with all the runners facing the TB? It sure worked for my little bunny.

Quote: Originally Posted by kcelectronics dude, is that a C110 skyline, are they common in Australia, do you have C10's? I'd love to have a C10 but they are very rare.

You got that right.

I think I recall a tread about "different tail light options" in wich a guy had photoshopped these lights on a Z, maybe this is were evrybody seems to remember it from.

I'v dreamed of a rotary miata for so long, it hurts.