madkaw

I’d rig up a driveshaft to drive your oil pump before start up to get everything primed and to check how well that spray bar works

I hope that wheel cylinder holds! I guess that’s on part I wouldn’t hope it works . I wouldn’t skimp when it comes to brake parts , and yes I know how expensive the early ones are- I own 4858. Looks like it had some decent pitting that would cause the cylinder to be oversized trying to clean it

I don’t remember , but it was very pricey and the holes didn’t hit the lash pads very well. I have a couple extra spray bars if you run into trouble. I do t use them

I would thorough test that spray bar with oil pressure. My experience was the squirt holes were misaligned . Just drive the oil pump with a drill and watch to make sure oil is going where you want .

Wow- great project. That shorty manifold is a bitch to mount isn’t it? I remember having to get the studs just right. Might consider SS heat shield instead of aluminum. Does a better job . So the HKS tank - carb mounting holes didn’t line up? I thought this set up was for Mikuni 40’s originally, or at least all Mikunis would line up. Glad to see you went with programmable ignition, you might save a motor. So this is a stock 2.4? I really wanted to try this project myself , but didn’t think my tuning skills were up to it. I’m not sure many have pulled this off successfully. I wanted to pressurize my CAI, but went EFI GOOD LUCK!

If you run the T-5 you will need the dedicated driveshaft . The DS will have to be shortened at least an inch, I would recommend a custom shaft . Z car depot sells the correct yoke. If you have a custom shaft made you can put whatever flange on that works with the diff you choose. The flange on the ZXT diff matches the T- 5 only. The T-5 shifter mounts further forward so you have to cut your tunnel and maybe modify your center console. Like stated , the shifter chooses are plenty. And these trans shifts very nicely , precise notchyness . Another bonus is you can upgrade later for bigger HP. World Class bits can be swapped in for a small fortune , but it will be good for 600+ HP. Gearing is to ones taste. I like the wide ratio for third gear , but I’m running 3:90 in the back. Makes for a nice passing gear . I can 90+ mph out of third.

Doesn’t it say right on that paper ? Where did you buy this from? It’s obvious someone has set this all up for you , why would you call them? Looks like it’s set up for batch fire and the paper tells you what driver pins to use . Megasquirt manual does a pretty decent job of describing how to wire this in. Is this what your asking?

My Spartan numbers don’t match between gauge and TS . We need to do another session.

Always appreciated your input. Sorry for your loss

Though the correction curve might be off, this engine ran well and I hadn’t changed anything in that category. Now maybe my battery voltage was making a situation worse. Also could be unrelated like you said, and as I mentioned I didn’t like the easy the TPS was acting. Giving my back a break until new TPS gets in. Maybe get a session in next week

Yes- I didn’t like what I was seeing as far as volts on my TS, so that’s what prompted me to check the alternator. Once the belt was tightened up a bit , it did seem better. I was see 12+ volts before - now more than 13+. Running an Optima battery, which I had issues with the previous Optima. I am kind of skeptical of this battery.

Well my engine starting running like poop, and I blamed it all on the IAC. But I hated it it anyway, so I decided to go back to the old AAR valve. I had one laying around from a 82 intake I had. Really don’t think it was/ is the issue , since with the IAC deleted, it still runs like poop. Engine was surging slightly with AFR swings of a couple of points . Small popping out the tail pipe at times. I did notice that as I increased throttle input that the TPS reading was not reflecting this. I ordered a new TPS, but not really sure my tests of the TPS proved anything . It is getting 5v’s. Ohm tests I found on line did not correlate to what I found. I was at .4k ohms - 14k ohms. I read it should be 2k-10k. Since the TPS is for a 240sx, not sure it makes a big difference with using MS3. Not sure what else to look at. I closed off all vacuum sources. Plugs look decent. All plugs are firing ,timing checked. All Tuner Studio reading seems normal EXCEPT, AFR mismatch of my Spartan 14/7 . I am reading 1 point less on my wideband gauge vs. the TS gauge. Also found that that my alternator belt loose and the battery was not getting charged to peak performance. At at this point I am waiting on the new TPS to see what it does. Id take any ideas

If course I think my 14/7 is going out also, so not sure what’s the best, As far as the dyno numbers, good baseline to start with. At least you did this so you can relate numbers to Butt dyno.

Thanks for the reply . So the chrome antenna stem is rusty? I don’t care about any other parts. The problem is finding the correct antenna stem diameter to repair an older antenna . Plus the antenna stem is made in a specific way to be motorized .

Im just looking for a antenna that’s not broke. I have a good motor , but the antenna is snapped off. I’d pay for shipping for one , hell , I’ll buy you Starbucks 😁

GULP :-0

Be careful of the vacuum advance - could cause too much timing

I’d say your timing is impeccable with the soaring popularity of these cars -ride the 🌊

So are you planning on doing any of your engine work or just contracting that out? Displacement and rpms are king with NA, so most move on from the L24 unless restricted by rules of racing or something . Or your like me and you what to learn and practice on your 24 before you spend bigger money on a 28! I am currently building a L28 and have a stroker by Rebello in the works. Hopefully I make most of my mistakes on the 24 before I get to the 3.2

Don’t over look that L24 for a fun ride. Glad to hear others are staying true to Nissan NA ! Though Hybridz is an excellent site, don’t overlook CZCC. come up with a proposal of your specific build and guys here will help tweak it. As far a relativity , my L24 stays keeps my car just ahead of my sons BRZ, so 50 more HP should be real fun.

Then there’s the theory of relativity ! How much HP do you have now at the rear wheels ? Have you ridden in a 250 HP Datsun? How did you come up with your desired numbers ? Have you ridden in a 150 RWHP 240z with some good gearing ? Striving for goals that are just numbers with out relativity ? My car is dyno’d 155 at the rear wheels. Is it fast -not really - compared to today’s numbers. Quick and fun - yes by any standard.

I think you measured right for coil overs . They buy you a lot more room inside . I run 17x8.5 +4 and wish it was +10. That would have allowed 245’s on the rear with stock springs. +4 was really close on the front perch, so I actually flattened that side of perch slightly. Coil overs would have been no problem. I am currently running 225/45/17

Good thing TonyD doesn’t get on here much anymore or you would get schooled on this. I believe I’ve read 208 hp on an ITS motor in its day, but I could be wrong . Voodoo and secrets that builders won’t ever give away. I believe in the rules there’s allowances for removing metal in certain places - head ! CR would be for race guess I’m guessing . Hell- maybe I’m talking out my ass

I’d do it! Just put them back in same order and plastigage . Of course clean and inspect them. If everything spins freely your good

car-part.com used car part market . I saw a bunch in your area all day for 150$ Lots of them around . Cheaper and the Z guys don’t think about them You can’t open the ports as much as the earlier heads, but your just filling L24 bores so ...