madkaw

You might have dinged Dave Rebello, he might have given out some hints on doing the diesel block properly since has done several . I think he is getting close to 3.5 liters out of his engines . I sold him my block I had years ago .

Getting a new trigger wheel made for my MS . Also note that I changed my dwell time on my coils to 3.7ms and it seems like it cured my #6 burn issue . Stay tuned for more updates .

This is what I used . I tried a laser , but it was really hard to come up with a rig that fir and sat square against the surfaces . I run the Subbie diff with a redrilled pattern on its larger yoke flange . Lots of surface to sit this on . I used a square off of the tail shaft along with this . Pretty consistent readings . i was looking for sources of driveline vibration so I wanted to make sure the lines were not intersecting .

Never read or seen bushing that utilized the original shells. You can’t go wrong whatever bushing you choose . I’ve been running urethane for years . Not sure if there’s much handling benefit of running urethane on the outer bushings of rear control arms . I do believe that there is sometimes some interference with the urethane flange between the strut housing and the control arms . The faces of the strut housing sometimes can be a little rough and might need to be cleaned up so the bushing flange sits square against / between the two. I just finished removing those shells the other day . It’s a battle . Take your time . Cut a slice out of the shell and then they should come out . Sometimes you think you’ve cut all the way thru and you haven’t .

Cool- I’ll try that. I was wondering if I could somehow see it on a trigger log , but they are limited on size .

I keep rereading this thread because I am sure I am experiencing the same thing. At around 6700 rpm my engine starts to get louder and not smooth and looses power. This shouldn't be happening with this motor. I will get fouling of 5&6 . It will clear off during normal driving . Can't see anything during datalogging . Looks like you went different coils? looks like Audi COPs? I guess I need to go this route to be sure . There doesn't seem to be any other reason this could be happening.

Sorry - I forgot you said you used the meter match. I might go that route too

Any numbers please ? Of course it probably won’t match mine , but hey- maybe it will. I’m fairly close but it still drops hard close to the quarter tank . love the GPS speedo and playing with the stop watch

Using a new Mac Pro -so I am challenged , but I think this is my latest tune #6 trim tune.msq

I only trimmed in the lower KPA areas , so we will see how it goes

I’m changing my laptop that I use in my car , so it might be a minute . So is it bogging or what is the engine doing during acceleration . My setting are more seat of the pants then anything . I’ve been more worried about VE tables .

I only trimmed in the lower KPA areas , so we will see how it goes

SOLD

Worked good when I pulled it . Upgraded to WC so I don’t need this one anymore . Comes with shifter . No other driveline parts . Asking 500$. It’s at 47401. I can ship , but hope I don’t need to. email : sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

In the grand scheme of things - 70$ additional to 1000$ worth of gauges seems okay to me . Let us know Chris !!

This kit I bought 15 years ago was considered a street kit. http://www.arizonazcar.com/brake.html

One reason I bought new injectors when going EFI . Another reason I went high impedance and MS3X because it was basically plug and play . I didn’t want to chase issues over rebuilt parts . Bought OEM Bosch new that fit my HP needs . I was new to EFI - let alone programmable EFI - so I wanted as few hiccups as possible . Did you reach out to Chickenman to look at your tune ?

I hate to even say because my memory is so bad . I followed the instructions and recommendations that came with the kit . I do a a proportioning valves between front a rear brakes - set up where my old parking brake was. I remember that I had to put most of the bias to the front . I run wildwoods all around . It’s not the big kit , just two puck 11” I think

I wish I could remember what my setting are , but I got them to lock up correctly and haven’t touched it in years . I run Wildwoods all around . I do remember that it was wayyyy biased up front .

I haven’t got this far to try and dial it in but the single button menu is enough to drive me nuts . This sucks about the fuel gauge . Hell- the stock gauge is bad enough , but to know my new gauge might be worse really sucks .

Well a lot has transpired since I last posted . I had issues with the 2.8 and moved on to my 3.2 build . Thankfully with just a fuel requirement adjustment based on just a percentage increase of CC of the motor the engine fired off in the first couple of revolutions . I am 200 miles into the fresh motor and couldn’t be much happier . I finally implemented full sequential using my Jeep sensor . Only issue is a slightly richer burn on #6 cylinder. After checking everything I have to think it’s a air flow issue with my N42 intake . I am going to make a trim adjustment to the injector , though I have no clue what I’m doing . MS is not very clear on how to . It’s not enough to sweat over and going from batch fire to sequential seemed to help the issue . I have been communicating with DIY and they aren’t convinced that it’s an airflow issue . Need to get to the dyno to see where I’m at on WHP - but it’s over 200 for sure .

Well guys , my best answer is that I found some scoring on the valve stem on #6 intake valve around the seal area of the stem . I moved on to my 3.2 build and P90 head since that head was ready . Funny thing is that #6 still had a different burn with the new engine , but not oil fouled - what kind of luck is that . Once I went full sequential on my EFI - it seemed to help . I think now it’s an intake design flaw . It’s something I could tune out with injector trim possibly , but I’m going to run it . The N42 intake will go away shortly with something else .

After starting this idea - I finally got mine working . Late to the game - but hey - it does work !

Not sure what your actual experience is with these motors are , but the L28 is capable of high revving to the limit of cast pistons . For your goals you might need to step out the box of strictly getting what you want thru HP and revs. Drivetrain changes like a better gears and a slicker trans can make huge improvements . Any engine swaps will cause a lot more work, time and frustration . Bump your compression a bit and run a bigger cam and find a way to manage it with programmable EFI or triples or even SU’s

I wouldn’t fret over a CC - my MN47 head measures big also compared to spec