madkaw

Back in the game ?

You have double checked you have the correct throw out bearing -collar to match the clutch you have installed ? Just throwing out ideas. Maybe you aren’t getting full engagement ?

So doing all those checks - was flatness of the flywheel checked again? Looks like burn marks on the flywheel

What size hose runs to the IAC? 550 rpm is really low for an L motor and really low for a large cam engine . You should be closer to 900 rpm. Cold timing advance will help idle a lot . Tuning warm up idle is not easy and factors in a lot of things . What timing are you running at idle , should be at least 15-17 degrees . You could set in about. 7 degrees advance at cold start up . You could try setting your idle adjustment for engine to idle with IAC clamped off when at tempature , then try and tune in a fast idle at warm up

Have you cleaned or replaced the thermistor next to the temp sensor ? Is the AAR working ? If it is you should be able to pinch the hose when it’s cold and it should effect the idle . Sounds like your not getting the additional air during cold warm up . You could also visually check the valve is working . Almost sounds like your engine is idling off of the AAR valve , so maybe your butterfly is closed ?

Interesting . I did actually try to “preload” the TPS, but I might need to revisit that procedure . I don’t know if I did it like you exactly- if that was you in the video. thanks either way!

It’s almost more like there is slop in the fit of the TPS over the shaft. Once it engages it looks to be fairly accurate . I just need to get a real Nissan one and compare .

Remember what year you used?

Interesting . I’ve tried every which way to adjust it, but there’s not enough accuracy off idle.

So the engine is running pretty good. What I’ve noticed is that the TPS is not as sensitive as I would like it to be. It does not register off-idle as accurately as it should. I can move the throttle enough to bring the rpms up from 1k to 1500 and TS won’t even show movement. I’ve tried adjusting, calibrating , but it seems to be an issue of the TPS not being sensitive enough to small inputs. It is an aftermarket for my 240sx TB. And I have replaced it recently. I probably should have ponied up for a Nissan one. What I think it is doing is showing me at idle when I’m not . I guess I need to check voltages everywhere. I did verify that my sensor voltage coming from the MS is 4.95v. I need to test this at my sensors. Ordered a new O2 gauge . Ordered the Spartan gauge to match my Spartan wideband, maybe my numbers which match each other now.

Have you ever noticed the timing light issue I mentioned . Definetly a diffferent pattern on last 3 cylinders

I’ve been redlining my motor ever since I had these coils- 7200 rpm. Ill try and get a better pic of mine , but the coils are “ notched” into the square tubing. Hard to believe that small in set makes a difference over mounting on flat stock, but maybe my coils aren’t being loaded as heavy as yours with a smaller displacement motor ? You said there was a direct correlation to loading ?

I actually contacted him and he decided to keep it for now. It was rebuilt .

So were those originally d585’s you were having issues with?

I’ve noticed when checking timing, that the coils on 4,5,6 flicker twice the speed of 1,2,3 ?

So maybe you were having CAS issues from the noise ? My CAS is on the flywheel on opposite side of motor .

There was someone on FB selling one just a couple of days ago.

I keep reading your first post , but not sure I understand your symptoms . So basically the engine wouldn’t go past 6k because of noise from the coils? I haven’t had issues -except lately, and I’m not ready to blame my coils. I’ve been running my D-585’s for years . But maybe my mounting design helps me? Interesting!

Yes - I did some reading and realized that it needed to be mounted on top of the intake- which probably isn’t going to happen. I don’t think I’m ready to give up on the IAC . Besides - I’m having other issues right now I’m pretty sure my CAS is giving me issues - so I’m troubleshooting it right now. Found greasy condensation mess in my PCB coming from my MAP sensor . Also checking voltage for my VR sensor circuit.

Well so far the AAR valve is a bust. Not truly familiar how these exactly work, but it seems that it resets itself way too fast. So the valve closes as the engine runs , as it should. I run into the house for a few minutes and I come out and I’m starting over again with a wide open valve. So the bi metal is weak, worn, acting normal? Yes it’s a used one and I cleaned it the best I can, and it was pretty clean. School me!

P90, p79, e31,e88, MN47

I’d ask 750$ for it and work my way down. It’s not the head everyone is looking for, but it’s ready to go .

My latest arrangement . I moved the IAT from the intake manifold to intake tube. Attached valve cover breather to intake boot. Also ditched my stepper IAC . Tired of it’s inconsistent behavior. Went back to a AAR valve that’s mounted low on the inner fender . Need to dial it in, but first try I got a fast idle !! I’ve got the AAR on a relay controlled from the programmable on/off outputs on the 3x harness. Did the same with the wideband. Neither will work unless the engine is turning . This way I can keep my ignition in run position to play with the MS and not worry about burning up stuff . Time for more tuning

Swap out the n-47 for the MN-47

I’d rig up a driveshaft to drive your oil pump before start up to get everything primed and to check how well that spray bar works