madkaw

You should post up your engine specs ! Not really sure from this thread what you did to achieve this. Stock cam? Did you use the L26 block?

Z life is good again. Engine running like a champ. Fires right up cold and running smooth . Ready to up the CC’s

The hoarder in me just wants to come out :-8

My buddy owns a 77 and a 78 I think , don’t know if they are different

I’ll ask my buddy in Avon

I’d finish pulling the head before going shopping to make sure block is okay. Shamless plug but I have a MN47 head that would make a nice combo for that engine.

So I found a true Nissan TPS at the JY and it is so much more accurate ! Don’t even know what model it came off of, but it works. Didn’t need to preload it or anything

If you have to put money in either head, I’d pick the e88. Smaller chambers most likely and square port exhaust. Cons: e88 might have smaller valves or non steel seats .

What’s wrong with the L24 /e88? Have you done a compression test with that engine ? It might be rebuilt for all you know. Is it stock? You pop that E88 on the N42 block and have some Hp!

6” maybe. I think total length of the wire is 10” . I think they are sized for the corvette. They are actually shorter then the ones I took off which were for the truck LS motor. Not sure about all the differences in the sizes.

The pic is of the new MSD wires

New wires look pretty too

Actually I looked at the engine calculator and it was right around 8.65:1, but a good number for someone with programmable engine control. You won’t get away with flat tops- that’s 10.5:1 - that’s what I’m getting ready to run. That’s based on 41cc chambers, which is what I measured the at. I’ll be at 39cc chambers so I’ll be at 11:1 Ive got one more MN47 with some 44mm intakes if your looking.

So I’ll share my drama from my last couple of months . Engine just wasn’t running right and I swore I had a miss, but engine acted like it had a hunting idle. I knew my MAP sensor was questionable since I got it from the JY. I decided to buy a genuine new GM from Rock auto. Received it and checked it before install and it was bad out of the box. Sent it back and got another, this one has been working correctly. My Map Daddy that is on my board is bad also. I think it ruined from gunk running down the vacuum line. Current MAP sensor is installed above the intake! Engine still ran like poop, and I knew it had a misfire for some reason. Bought one of those HEI spark testers to test the coils . Found a coil that wouldn’t jump the spark - BINGO- I thought. Bought some used ones to replace my used ones and it still wasn’t right. Examined my GM plug wires with less than 10k miles and they didn’t look that great . Had a couple of extra wires and swapped some out. Ran slightly better but didn’t trust them. Because if the bad weather , most of my troubleshooting was idling in the garage. When I finally got out on the road the car sputtered up any hill at low rpm. WOT she still got it , but any low rpm loading caused major issues. All this time I was checking everything else on the engine; timing , tune , software updates , wiring , I just had re- wired the whole fuse box. Did a lot of reading and read how easy these logic coils will fire off. Little over 2 volts across the logic side and boom. I broke down and ordered MSD wires and new plugs. FIXED! Have to keep all the spark in the boots or these d585 will fire off. Pretty scary if you are running a turbo ( Gollum -are you reading ?) Hopefully the drama is over .Time to get my cam sensor working . Side note: Timing light is NOT an effective tool to troubleshoot spark with wasted spark and d-585 coils. The flash is erratic . I saw wasted spark flashes on 3 of the cylinders and half that speed on the other cylinders

Gave up and found a Nissan TPS to try, let you know.

Cool stuff. I thought that engine combo would have been good for an NA at best, but looks like you are making it work. You figure about 9.5:1? We wont even bring up the exhaust liners - lol. I hope you you relieved the short side radius before you put it on, they need some work there- especially for flowing a turbo . I had a MN-47 that I bought from someone that ran a blow thru turbo and it looked great .

If ever in Btown - come see the Z studio!

Did you end up in Indy Bob? Sweet -2 Z’s are better than one . Still in school?

Back in the game ?

You have double checked you have the correct throw out bearing -collar to match the clutch you have installed ? Just throwing out ideas. Maybe you aren’t getting full engagement ?

So doing all those checks - was flatness of the flywheel checked again? Looks like burn marks on the flywheel

What size hose runs to the IAC? 550 rpm is really low for an L motor and really low for a large cam engine . You should be closer to 900 rpm. Cold timing advance will help idle a lot . Tuning warm up idle is not easy and factors in a lot of things . What timing are you running at idle , should be at least 15-17 degrees . You could set in about. 7 degrees advance at cold start up . You could try setting your idle adjustment for engine to idle with IAC clamped off when at tempature , then try and tune in a fast idle at warm up

Have you cleaned or replaced the thermistor next to the temp sensor ? Is the AAR working ? If it is you should be able to pinch the hose when it’s cold and it should effect the idle . Sounds like your not getting the additional air during cold warm up . You could also visually check the valve is working . Almost sounds like your engine is idling off of the AAR valve , so maybe your butterfly is closed ?

Interesting . I did actually try to “preload” the TPS, but I might need to revisit that procedure . I don’t know if I did it like you exactly- if that was you in the video. thanks either way!

It’s almost more like there is slop in the fit of the TPS over the shaft. Once it engages it looks to be fairly accurate . I just need to get a real Nissan one and compare .