madkaw

Welding chambers is for seasoned veterans I think, but doable. You could shop for a maxima cylinder head which already has small heart shaped chambers . They would also be cheaper to obtain. I’d do a budget build first to experienced on these motors . Your not going to get a lot of knowledgeable help easily . Do a regrind for your cam. Cheap and reliable. I’d do a drilled cam and ditch the spray bar . Bottom ends are about bullet proof, so don’t spend a lot of money there.

Search is your friend. I have a set of 86mm pistons on L24 rods available if you really want to punch it out. You have a sonic tester available ? Go big or go home on the cam . Later versions of the E88 aren’t the best combustion chamber , but maybe learn to weld close those chambers ? Running 490/290 and still very street friendly. Youll be limited on rpms with cast pistons , but still get 7k plus. Bump compression for sure. My e88 is shaved .050 to get some more compression . Lots of of ways to get power, but spend the time and money on that head, or find a different head with a better combustion chamber

Stock HG should be fine

So you should be able to shave the block quite a bit. Just make sure you bolt the timing cover to the block so you shave both.

Measure deck height on your pistons . I believe the L24 engine the deck height is closer to zero. You have more room to shave then in a L28 block. This is based on what I found on my engine when I rebuilt it. Now these weren’t stick pistons , but pin height should have been the same. How much is shaved off the head? My engine is a 71 with e-88 Head . Block is shaved close to .010 and piston was only out .005 ,and head is shaved .050 with bigger valves . No metal contact yet with a 490/290 cam

Not with the EFI- I was at 150 RWHP with the Mikunis and th butt dyno feels about the same

e-88 Head - shaved .050 , bigger valves , ported slightly . Yes that’s a stock N-42.

Have to chat about this sometime . I have this mint 77 that the owner wants more power, but stock EFI is solid.

Running N42 intake with Isky 490/290. Makes power to redline. Actually wish it made more down lower. It almost seems like you have to get the air velocity up on these intakes to make power, but maybe just my set up. My triples hit harder down lower, but no bitching about the stock intake.

Don’t think it will for his year - but if it fits a 70 I would be interested

They fit pretty well in a 240!

It would be nice if you could do a pictorial/ tutorial on what the full harness kit eliminates from the stock EFI Z’s. I’m mostly referring to fusible links, etc... I believe if people saw how this kit simplified a stock EFI z engine compartment they would be more inclined to consider. I have a client now that has a 77 and I would like to talk him into buying this kit vs trying to restore the OEM EFI. If you lay out the costs and compare and add the fact that you flexibility with the MS it’s no brainer . Eliminating the AFM, and the stock ( probably corroded) ECU , and fusible links is a big bonus. Just a thought. My project was different since I went from a non -EFI set up, so my costs were higher.

Bad results with my SI valves . OEM valves are good

Did you ever measure piston valve clearance with your combo Leon?

OER sells some ITB’s that look like carbs- very nice . They make them in various sizes . As far as programmable EFI - Megasquirt pro might be overkill .

I don’t know if I’m the one to say the stepper is hard to set up since I am not as systematic as others, but I don’t think it’s user friendly and there are many variables to figure out. Like how many steps is your specific stepper and what’s is the best method of power to use( always on, only moving) , etc... Then the cranking steps , polarity, and just general idle tune to complicate matters. Hopefully I will be posting up a successful tune to help others - after the Richard eye balls my tune to make sure something isn’t crazy. It is nice when it works !

Maybe- just maybe - I have this IAC in tune . I’m not ready to share yet since I have a few cold starts to do. This has been a ball buster and I should have been more methodical . The AAR valve was looking better all the time. Next week on vacation will be many test runs .

Checked out the CV’s . For sure there’s probably 5 degrees of slop in the CV just like others said on the 510 site. These issues are hard to compare with others because describing noises doesn’t cut it. For me - the sound is more of a thud then a clunk. There’s no metallic sound . You can feel ,as well as hear the noise in the chassis. If there’s something moving like the diff in the moustache bar I can’t see it while under the car . I do drive my car very hard and slam gears , so it’s possible something is loose or the CV’s are getting more play . Next I will remove nuts from the diff /moustache bar and see if the hole are in good shape. I will check torque before hand. Also going to check gland nuts on struts . Moustache mounting points. Also will confirm that the grease is seeping out off the boots . Like a mist of grease covering the adapters and boots. I do run the straws in the boots for them to breathe .

Wow-900$ for junk

2006 STI diff 3:90 gears - clutch type custom made aluminum DS FUTOFAB CV axles new front diff mount RT upper GM style mount It seems to be excessive drivetrain slop causing a clunk based on how the clutch is released. The excess can be seen and felt by hand when rotating DS by hand while in gear. It seems the slop causes the driveline to clunk when engaging torque . Easily duplicated when cruising at low speeds and engaging clutch in a higher gear (4th). I have had someone duplicate this in the garage with front wheels chocked as they let out clutch rapidly in 2 gear and I have watched for any movement - I see none. Harmless slop or diff worn out ? The only other noise I get from the diff is a bit of a chatter when pulling into my garage ( uphill ) at slow speed. I can hammer the gears in WOT and hear nothing .

I think your a little confused on what’s being done here. The valve likes to have room to breathe all the way around the valve. Obviously close to the cylinder wall side is where there’s not much room. So no it’s not ballsy to clearance close to the fire ring if done right. Your exhaust valve side needs work in the green arrow area of your first pic. I’d follow the radius of the valve all the way to the fire ring ( or very close). Make sure you have your head dowels in place holding the HG where it will sit when installed. Do not take any material away from other areas UNLESS you need to adjust your CR by gaining CC’s. That’s probably what Brapp was doing with a small chamber head. Smoothing edges is great but you don’t usually remove much material.

There’s material that could be removed ! Not sure what you were expecting to find but that exhaust could use some work for sure

Okay - I can’t let you slide on this one. you think you had to point out what was exhaust side and what was intake -lol

Did you try moving / adjusting dizzy to different positions while starting ? Maybe timing is pretty far off . Lining up the oil pump has to been done accurately . That 11:25 o’clock position can be tricky to eyeball and it wouldn’t take much to be a tooth off. Double and triple check firing order. Whats it doing when you try and start ? Spitting , coughing , nothing ? Try squirting starter fluid in while cranking ?

Did you align the cam TDC COMPRESSION STROKE!