madkaw

Remember what year you used?

Interesting . I’ve tried every which way to adjust it, but there’s not enough accuracy off idle.

So the engine is running pretty good. What I’ve noticed is that the TPS is not as sensitive as I would like it to be. It does not register off-idle as accurately as it should. I can move the throttle enough to bring the rpms up from 1k to 1500 and TS won’t even show movement. I’ve tried adjusting, calibrating , but it seems to be an issue of the TPS not being sensitive enough to small inputs. It is an aftermarket for my 240sx TB. And I have replaced it recently. I probably should have ponied up for a Nissan one. What I think it is doing is showing me at idle when I’m not . I guess I need to check voltages everywhere. I did verify that my sensor voltage coming from the MS is 4.95v. I need to test this at my sensors. Ordered a new O2 gauge . Ordered the Spartan gauge to match my Spartan wideband, maybe my numbers which match each other now.

Have you ever noticed the timing light issue I mentioned . Definetly a diffferent pattern on last 3 cylinders

I’ve been redlining my motor ever since I had these coils- 7200 rpm. Ill try and get a better pic of mine , but the coils are “ notched” into the square tubing. Hard to believe that small in set makes a difference over mounting on flat stock, but maybe my coils aren’t being loaded as heavy as yours with a smaller displacement motor ? You said there was a direct correlation to loading ?

I actually contacted him and he decided to keep it for now. It was rebuilt .

So were those originally d585’s you were having issues with?

I’ve noticed when checking timing, that the coils on 4,5,6 flicker twice the speed of 1,2,3 ?

So maybe you were having CAS issues from the noise ? My CAS is on the flywheel on opposite side of motor .

There was someone on FB selling one just a couple of days ago.

I keep reading your first post , but not sure I understand your symptoms . So basically the engine wouldn’t go past 6k because of noise from the coils? I haven’t had issues -except lately, and I’m not ready to blame my coils. I’ve been running my D-585’s for years . But maybe my mounting design helps me? Interesting!

Yes - I did some reading and realized that it needed to be mounted on top of the intake- which probably isn’t going to happen. I don’t think I’m ready to give up on the IAC . Besides - I’m having other issues right now I’m pretty sure my CAS is giving me issues - so I’m troubleshooting it right now. Found greasy condensation mess in my PCB coming from my MAP sensor . Also checking voltage for my VR sensor circuit.

Well so far the AAR valve is a bust. Not truly familiar how these exactly work, but it seems that it resets itself way too fast. So the valve closes as the engine runs , as it should. I run into the house for a few minutes and I come out and I’m starting over again with a wide open valve. So the bi metal is weak, worn, acting normal? Yes it’s a used one and I cleaned it the best I can, and it was pretty clean. School me!

P90, p79, e31,e88, MN47

I’d ask 750$ for it and work my way down. It’s not the head everyone is looking for, but it’s ready to go .

My latest arrangement . I moved the IAT from the intake manifold to intake tube. Attached valve cover breather to intake boot. Also ditched my stepper IAC . Tired of it’s inconsistent behavior. Went back to a AAR valve that’s mounted low on the inner fender . Need to dial it in, but first try I got a fast idle !! I’ve got the AAR on a relay controlled from the programmable on/off outputs on the 3x harness. Did the same with the wideband. Neither will work unless the engine is turning . This way I can keep my ignition in run position to play with the MS and not worry about burning up stuff . Time for more tuning

Swap out the n-47 for the MN-47

I’d rig up a driveshaft to drive your oil pump before start up to get everything primed and to check how well that spray bar works

I hope that wheel cylinder holds! I guess that’s on part I wouldn’t hope it works . I wouldn’t skimp when it comes to brake parts , and yes I know how expensive the early ones are- I own 4858. Looks like it had some decent pitting that would cause the cylinder to be oversized trying to clean it

I don’t remember , but it was very pricey and the holes didn’t hit the lash pads very well. I have a couple extra spray bars if you run into trouble. I do t use them

I would thorough test that spray bar with oil pressure. My experience was the squirt holes were misaligned . Just drive the oil pump with a drill and watch to make sure oil is going where you want .

Wow- great project. That shorty manifold is a bitch to mount isn’t it? I remember having to get the studs just right. Might consider SS heat shield instead of aluminum. Does a better job . So the HKS tank - carb mounting holes didn’t line up? I thought this set up was for Mikuni 40’s originally, or at least all Mikunis would line up. Glad to see you went with programmable ignition, you might save a motor. So this is a stock 2.4? I really wanted to try this project myself , but didn’t think my tuning skills were up to it. I’m not sure many have pulled this off successfully. I wanted to pressurize my CAI, but went EFI GOOD LUCK!

If you run the T-5 you will need the dedicated driveshaft . The DS will have to be shortened at least an inch, I would recommend a custom shaft . Z car depot sells the correct yoke. If you have a custom shaft made you can put whatever flange on that works with the diff you choose. The flange on the ZXT diff matches the T- 5 only. The T-5 shifter mounts further forward so you have to cut your tunnel and maybe modify your center console. Like stated , the shifter chooses are plenty. And these trans shifts very nicely , precise notchyness . Another bonus is you can upgrade later for bigger HP. World Class bits can be swapped in for a small fortune , but it will be good for 600+ HP. Gearing is to ones taste. I like the wide ratio for third gear , but I’m running 3:90 in the back. Makes for a nice passing gear . I can 90+ mph out of third.

Doesn’t it say right on that paper ? Where did you buy this from? It’s obvious someone has set this all up for you , why would you call them? Looks like it’s set up for batch fire and the paper tells you what driver pins to use . Megasquirt manual does a pretty decent job of describing how to wire this in. Is this what your asking?

My Spartan numbers don’t match between gauge and TS . We need to do another session.