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Everything posted by madkaw
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Probably should state stuff like bore size, cam, etc...
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I think I have one sitting on a 82 intake behind my GARAGE
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yes it is-but I had/have so many other issues I didn't know if switching directions was helping me. I think I have a plan now. Just need to get off the RR and implement ! Wish I was retired like the Chickenman!
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Actually- I am still set up closed. From a DIY article https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/stepper-iac/ First, make sure that the idle control is set to “Stepper Valve”, not PWM or on/off idle control. For initial testing, we recommend using open loop instead of closed loop. Closed loop requires more complicated settings and has more that can potentially go wrong. The time step size is how long the stepper driver will command an individual step. If the valve is perfectly dialed in, this will match the time it takes the coil move the motor through a single step. If this value is too low, the step is not completed, and the valve does not move. If the step is too high, the valve will move more slowly than it can – but otherwise there aren’t any consequences. Your best bet is to set this for 10 ms, then decrease until the valve no longer moves. Then add 0.5 to 1.0 ms. 4 wire valves that turn freely usually need to use “Always On” mode. Valves that are difficult to spin by hand usually need to use “Moving Only” mode; the same goes for all 5 or 6 wire valves. The homing steps (called “start value” in older code versions) needs to be set to a large enough value that the valve retracts fully from any position the valve can reach during operation. The current MS3 and MS2/Extra code allow you to specify if the valve closes or opens on startup. Regardless of which position it is set for, you need to set the number of homing steps high enough that it will move all the way to this position no matter where it starts I guess I need to change this in my tune. I believe 'turn freely' explains or describes my stepper
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Thanks Richard for your input as always . MS recommended using open loop so that’s why I chose it -thinking it would be easier . Ill try some of your settings when I get back into town .
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Made this video to help explain my dilemma .
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You know your going to be told to do some searching . So you want someone to write out a complete recipe for 300 Hp using what engine , head , engine management , induction , ignition?????
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AARRRGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!! This IAC is PITA--OMG, ready for the BFH. After getting on the forums at EFI and doing some board changes I got the stepper to operate. Now much of this was my fault because I had a broken pin on my connector and wouldn't you know it was one of the coil sides of this stepper. The guys on the MS forums help me thru that crisis, but still can't get it to operate the way it should. Basically it is working the opposite way I want it too. It idles faster as it gets warmer. Can't tell if it's tuner studio or wiring. I don't think MS does very well explaining things on setting up these IAC's. Jeep IAC madness.msq
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I believe 460 lift is max for stock springs
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Plug and Play Megasquirt Wiring Harness + sensors etc
madkaw replied to softopz's topic in Group Buys
Not trying to be a moderator here, but can this thread be rewritten in the vendor forum or here so it makes a little easier decifering ? Or if the original post can be edited . I was reading it today for someone who wants to order , and it was kind of hard to follow . Thanks -
Missed that page - thanks . That helps a bunch. Didn’t work with throttle plate closed , so next cold start might get it right
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This was the big question . I️ know it was partially open , but wasn’t sure that if that was the way it was designed. I️ could pinch the vacuum side and get the idle to come down .
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IAC made it's first test run today. I have no clue what I am doing as far as adjusting this thing -but have found a few write ups searching . Initially the idle slowly increased as the car warmed up, so I figured it was wired up backwards , so I switched the wires. I think I got that figured but the idle is still too high(2000 rpm). In test mode it showed fully closed on the guage-if that means anything. I guess I should establish whether this valve closes completely when it's closed. With my 240sx TB I have the throttle plate adjusted for idle, so if this IAC doesn't close all the way then I guess that's my issue. I guess I don't know if this IAC had complete control of idle on the Jeep TB's. Maybe my settings are just screwy? Can't stop fucking with it.msq
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L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
I think you can have a fun fast car without doing a compete engine swap. You have a short block that will take 300 on a regular basis from all I’ve read . 300 would be very fast and it sounds like you have a nice set up already. Of course this is Hybridz too:) -
2&4 are your major problems . Test will not be accurate at all with those two oops
- 31 replies
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L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
I wouldn’t give the bottom end another thought if the oil was changed regular . These motors are as tough as it gets -
L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
Let’s add that someone on this site is selling basically plug and play MEGASQUIRT for these engines and some loaded tunes already ! -
L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
And I’m not pushing Megasquirt because there’s other options out there as far as controllers . I’m not a fan of the 4bbl intake -just on looks alone- and the intake you have should function well. There is good support here for MS and as you can see you can clean up the bay nicely . Cam selection is part of the whole equation , but I’d say go big or go home . These engines like to be cammed. CR will be low with that motor compared to a flat top. You could do every thing in steps. Get programmable EFI in first and then shoot for HP and hotter motor later -
L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
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L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
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L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED
madkaw replied to RefreshRate's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
A lot of good info on this site about mods. Being a 75 your engine should have the preferred intake manifold on it - non webbed - non EGR. You could consider an aftermarket EFI ECU and save the cost and work of replacing your intake . I’m running that exact intake on my L24 with Megasquirt EFI with great results . Also running NA with a 490/290 cam . The possibilities are endless , so do your research and spend wisely. -
Saturn Electric Power Steering In A Datsun 280Z
madkaw replied to socorob's topic in Fabrication / Welding
Did you consider any other units besides the Saturn. I drive my sons BRZ and think I like the way it feels. I've seen a couple of threads started on this -
Have you looked at my MS3x install thread on this site?
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So your saying Matt that my plan is okay to run these IAC wires along side the sensor wires ? I have taken great measure to not have noise issues and so far I have had NO issues with my MS 3 and enjoying EFI life . Very happy to see my plugs looking like this with my 490/290 cam . Engine idles at 800 and has the same power as my triples !