madkaw

Anyone have knowledge of more current years of diffs ??? I’m ready to purchase a torsion 3.54 . A ton on eBay as current as 2020 . They still look like the same casing but want to make sure my stub axles will work on any year .

Well this isn't about my Z , this is about my truck running ms2/3.57. Its a Z2.4 motor that I converted to MS. Everything was pretty good until the frigid temps came along . Anything under 30F and I don't get sync to start. It does light up green as I let off the starter(Which is a newly rebuilt unit) . I have a new battery , new ignition switch also. I am running the same CAS as on my car which is the Cherry Hall gear tooth sensor, running off my flywheel. I have 12v running to it. I have adjusted the pots to 2.5v as I have done before. I've done my best to keep sensor wires away from noise , but I read on the forums that the flash of green letting off the starter could mean noise from the starter. I tried to do a datalog of the tooth logger and forgot to save the file. I'll try it again tomorrow. I did put the battery on the charger overnight. Just trying to get some ideas on how to figure this out. I have a stim board but didn't think I could duplicate the issue on it. CurrentTune.msq

I recently bought both kinds . I couldn’t see a huge difference . I have precisions seals on my Z . The door in particular is just as bad on the both seals . Good luck finding Kia seals - maybe used . Some seals are only available at Vintage . I wanted the 1 piece hatch seal and only vintage had that

Made more progress on the fascia . I think my templates will help me think this out as far as sealing edges and the getting the best look . More than likely the grill won’t go back on. I think I want to bring the top of the fascia out a little , but not much . I need to cut a hole for my breather pipe . Need to find a place for the horns . I don’t plan on having any real framework since I will be using .125 sheet to fab everything .

It’s hardly far enough along to tell what I’m doing , but it will close off the compete grill area . All edges will be sealed with some kind of weatherstrip against the chassis .

Not sure I understand what you are saying. The grill opening will be completely blocked off except a small opening for the radiator . I will shooting to keep air from escaping anywhere around the fascia . all this to say, your idea is not bad but not optimal (if you care). If you do insist on keeping it narrow, I would put a slight angle inward on the sides. Sounds counterintuitive, but this creates a Venturi effect at slower speeds which will actually increase velocity into your rad. Angling outward will cause an eddy current on the sides of the rad support creating drag. Keeping a neutral angle (as you drew) will cause a thin surface to “flap” due to turbulent air flow at speed.

I’m only half done . The front grill area will be completely blocked off except a small opening in the radiator box .

Yep - I’m getting there . This is just the early stages of the project .

I had no idea what forum to post this in because it fits a lot of categories. I am modifying my from grill area to help with cooling and aerodynamics , which will affect the engine also. It’s kind of bodywork too , and some fab and welding . Anywho- here’s some pics of the start of the project . Making use of a huge box that my lawnmower came in to mock up . Goal is make this aerodynamic gain by blocking the air from getting in all the wrong places. Also getting air in the right places for cooling and better engine-temp control. At 75mph cruise I get some buffeting on the front end . I can see the hood doing a little shaking from the air getting under it . And if I get it looking clean I think it will good. Not really a sheet metal guy , but I can bend some aluminum around . I’ve been practicing with my TIG . I suck , but I’m hoping I can make some welds look pretty with some sandpaper-lol.

There is a forum for Megasquirt on this site - which would be a better place for this . I have a thread on there covering MS3x Install. It might help you . You can also put your tune on there to get help I’ll look at your tune tomorrow when I’m on my laptop . Make sure your tooth logger looks good and you don’t have any sync errors

There’s endless threads on this topic . I think you will want wider than 8” wheels to fill the ZG flares .

I’m using the single fan they sell. So far so good with my stroker . I believe it’s a Mishuto also .

Best option is z car garage axles -$$$$

So this isn’t a re-skin but replacing the complete roof and swap ?

MSA sells Precision . Vintage is not much better when it comes to that issue. Kia seals help solve that issue for me

Let me guess - MSA weatherstrip ?

I believe thats the magic number

Remember -there is no best on Hybridz-lol. I think the P90 is better for exhaust port do allow more flow for a bigger engine build. You would have to cut the P90 100 thou or more to get to the CR of the MN . Valve sizes can be matched up. The MN already has the bigger exhaust valve . My engine runs 44/35. Your right that trying to manage 11:1 might not be worth it. I've been trying to replicate the squish and CR that Brian Blake said he ran -without issues. I wouldn't try unless I was running efi . But with an aluminum head and a modern combustion chamber shape it should do 11:1 without a problem. LS1 is the easy answer for sure .

Long live the MN! I don't know, I think its the best bang for buck performance street head out there . Shaving the P90 just makes a harder turn from port to cylinder. I ran both the P90 shaved and my MN on my stroker. Didn't tell much of a difference . The MN has a slighter higher CR. I didn't dyno the motor with the P90 , but I bet they would have been close . More most builds either would be good with a 3-5CC difference in chamber volume . The ports are not that much bigger on the p90. The liners would only be an issue for the race engines . The liners in early heads(n47) aren't supported as well by the castings as well as the later versions. The MN is a really nice casting with few corrosion issues . I'm no longer running a stock bottom end so my comparisons are not lemons to lemons. Currently at 226 rwhp with a MN and a stock N42 intake. The intake at this point is the limiting factor. I am running 10.75:1 . I think EFI is about an necessity for running on the ragged edge. Blake ran the fuel fat in ping prone areas . Having timing control with knock control helps too. It is good to have some banter over cylinder heads .

Bryan Blake was a big proponent of the squish . If you dig deep enough he eeks some info about squish distance . It’s closer than most would be comfortable with . Ive seen pics of pistons he ran and the combustion area is a very defined . He claims that is why he can run 11:1 on pump gas . What was crazier was at the time he was only running EFI fuel - and running a distributor .

It all about the squish as they say . Ideal chamber design with the ideal Piston to head clearance . Lots of fun reading on this site about this . It is hard to find the ideal number because certain builders didn’t want to say . Unfortunately most of those guys aren’t in this site much anymore .

You are so wrong - lol Like you say - most power is made below 7 and the stock block is just fine with that . My cam has hp peak at 6k and peak torque at 4300 . Throw a MN head on there and be able to run 11:1 on pump gas and bingo - a fun fast car . I do want to cam mine for 8k though . It’s built to take that and after driving a M3 I want that rpm - if I don’t loose the bottom end . Options are plenty !!!

Fun driver is subjective for sure . I also say that the OP might be happy with a well build 2.8 . We know it’s all about the head . Spend 3000$ on a good head, accessories and get 200hp + which will make a fast z and also be user friendly around town . One could make the head the building block . These bottom ends are pretty bullet proof stock .

Depends on known condition . I paid 350$ for a clean MN47 . I might be interested in one of them . Whatever is cheaper which I assume is the 90a . where are you located ? Shipping can be $$

I would question that builder if he is confident he can get 300 -350 NA rwhp and still be streetable . MAYBE crank hp . One would have to run 13:1 and a huge cam. I have 226 rwhp and can do a 1/4 in 13.1 and 0-60 4.5 approx . My point is that bigger hp numbers sound good but it doesn’t take much with a 2500lb car. Good luck