madkaw

Not sure there is a way to weld the short side radius which is arguably the most important . I had it welded under the seat on the long side - that was tough enough

One of the things I’m hoping to verify . I will be doing a head that has liners removed

One of the Maxima heads I have - might be the one on my stroker- was previously on a turbo motor . The later heads seem to be better castings and I think for low boost motors it would be fine .

The process has started . First the silicon model and then 3D scanning and then computer porting . Love science

Ran this stock 71 radiator in my stroker no issues . It’s been cleaned by radiator shop that was impressed how well these 3 rows flow . No leaks but lower outlet is dented . Probably be straightened fairly easy . 75$ plus shipping in the USA obo

Clean exhaust manifold for your turbo 250$ shipped in the USA

Probably going to give a LOT more info before anyone can give you an intelligent answer. History on the car? Any maintenance done lately? In gear of out of gear? etc….

I would just get a standard dizzy shaft and sell the turbo one

Currently contemplating my next move . I think a cam with more duration would work well with this intake . Need to take about .020 off the head surface to raise compression . Maybe cut it open and install some velocity stacks on top of those runners and make them a bit longer . Also have another head I’ve been messing with . Liners removed on this MN . Also have a friend that can 3D scan my combustion chambers and ports and give me some recommendations on how to manage these exhaust ports . Short side radius suffers without the liners . Maybe his computer program can find me some CFM

That AFR gauge is a curse sometimes . I think I’m your build that I would want one . Even with my NA build I obsess over that damn gauge . I have dual exhausts and a O2 sensor in each bank and they can be off from each other as much a 2.5 pts . I guess it’s the way the air moves around in the plenum . I think you will have to just go to the rich side and be happy with that ?

I appreciate your attention to detail. You are taking on a tough task of pressurizing those carbs . Can’t wait to see the end result . I thought about it with my Mikunis . I even had my MS3 running ignition with the carbs . In the end I chickened out - lol

What idle rpm do you shoot for ? I let mine idle pretty high - 1000rpm. I figure it keeps oil on the lobe and easier to find a happy spot for the engine to idle . I use stepper IAC myself , and it’s been a challenge . Getting the idle to come back to the same spot every time with a big cam was also part of the challenge . I also think my 3/8 I’d hose is too small for this engine . I need to put a 1/2” since that what a lot of OEMS use .

Thanks , I wish I knew who started the fab on this and wonder how they were planning to finish it. . Still impressed how well my n42 did with its smaller runners and pure log design .

Update : new intake is on . So far so good . Still have lots of tuning to do . My power band did move up . I feel this set up allows more power at the top end . I have lost some low end at low rpm’s . I smacked my rev limiter ( 7500rpms) easier than before . It seemed like I was just beating on the motor at those rpm’s with the N42 intake . I think the TPS is screwing with me so my accel enrichment is not right

yeah - what ecu?

That’s kind of the ideal offset . You want the positive off set for the rears. The minor rub in the front -if any - could be fixed with a very thin spacer

You might actually get away without having to repair that with the big head bolt right there

There is no best on HybridZ . And Dave has told me that it doesn’t matter much as long as you do better than the stock . He’s had good numbers with the Pace Setter header and that’s one of the cheapest you can buy. I’d say it’s slim pickings right now . I made 230 rwhp with my MSA 6-2 header

Z Car Depot sells the strips that you can attach to your cards

What is considered “ standard bodies”?

Pretty good day for me . Got to help a buddy get his motor going and we went for a spin to dial some thing in with his Megasquirt . It was kind of chilly . Same day I’m there with him and I get a call that my intake is done . Can’t wait to let my engine breathe . New intake and exhaust header !!!!!

There’s a guy running a MN47 without liners with good success (200+ HP L28) I’ve showed my MN without liners to a couple of machinist and they thought the flow wouldn’t be that affected . It does leave a big gap under the seat which I would like to fill , but that would be almost impossible due to location. The rest of the port can be smoothed out . It does leave a massive port at almost 38mm at the port exit from the head . I think the MN 47 is best left NA mostly because of its small chamber

I think the liner issue for a turbo is fairly isolated. I have noted that there is a difference in casting quality from early liner heads and later ones. Look at a early n47 compared to a MN 47 or p79 . I have personally removed the liners from a MN47 and I see no way they would come out unless they disintegrated . They are extremely hard to remove . The later years have better casting supports for the liners to sit on and much better casting in general.

You haven’t mentioned engine management . Maybe you could run 9:1 with mild boost if you had a way to manage it . Engine management is what you should do first

I’m using them temporarily before I install rivnuts . It’s just easier to take apart with the sheet metal screws . I might keep some in areas I’m not putting my hands .