madkaw

I might have an extra

You need to chill out on your timing . It’s hard to see the pic , but you have a ton of timing at 100kpa. I run NA - so can’t help you above 100. You are bringing on way too much timing too early . I wouldn’t be above 33 degrees at 100kpa anywhere on the scale for now . I don’t bring in full timing(36) until around 3000-3500 rpm . ESPECIALLY with a turbo build I would get more conservative . As said above - verify timing with a light . Verify timing marks on pulley . Your VE tables look wonky too. You are pulling fuel way early - before you make full torque . Id suggest finding a tune from someone’s else car

Did you ever find any ?

I have the same numbers on my 3.2 NA!

They are available in many places

I would buy any reputable wideband . Spartan makes good ones cheap .

It’s the only way to tune ! Besides reading plugs and butt dyno - lol

Never asked if my paint shop can mix “engine” paint . I personally have done Chrysler blue from Por-15 and really like the stuff .

He does check in occasionally. I think he just PM’d me eventually

The wide band is off - lol

Rich ? 100kpa 37 degrees

That’s my biggest issue . I had a question regarding their parking brake cable. I emailed them . One week later I got a response . It would have taken 10 seconds on the phone . I ordered the part anyways because I had given up on getting an answer . Fortunately the product was what the pic showed and the answer matched the product . If not , then I would have had to return it, and probably lost shipping money on part of the transaction . They could do a better job with descriptions if they don’t want to answer questions . IMHO I will say I’ve had more issues with MSA and they have been in business a lot longer if that says anything

I wouldn’t probably be this nice . It’s bad enough you pay ahead of time and now no refund - BS

That’s another pet peeve with these vendors . They don’t k is their stock . I’ve been told things have gone back order and the stuff shows up 2 days later . Not sure how they can be that disorganized

I try to cut them slack where I can , but some of the stuff they do - like other small businesses is bad. I am on day two of getting a refund or return “ approved “ I sent an email and pic as requested . It was a very recent purchase . It’s obvious the part made was of poor workmanship . Even though I spoke with the vendor , it has to go to the owner for approval . Meanwhile I’m in limbo whether I get my money back or buy another product or buy from another vendor . It’s not rocket science , it’s just a bad part . It doesn’t need to go to congress to make this BIG decision . When a customer has spent 5 digits worth of parts over the years , I think the vendor should cut me some slack and realize I am a valued customer .

I think they are all bad , but I’m just a grumpy parts buyer I guess. I think it’s BS that Z Car Depot doesn’t take calls . Business has never been better so let’s offer less service . I’ve been dealing with Ryan from the beginning . It was better when they answered the phone . I don’t get the mentality to save a buck by giving cutting customer service which in turn looses business . All the vendors are riding the wave right now with Z values going up . MSA sent my stuff to my old address that I haven’t lived in for 10 years . That’s after thousands of dollars of business at my new address. They all sell some junk stuff - but for the most part I’m happy we have choices . Datsun Garage isn’t much better - they don’t answer the phone nor does Whitehead Performance . I’ve have done about 5 Z’s in the last 10 years . I just figure this is about what you get messing with old cars .

I would lock your timing down or get a programmable EFI that controls timing .

I wish we would get more of the “old timers “ back . The trend of social media has killed the wealth of knowledge we used to have around here . You can’t really research anything on social media either . Not saying that’s where you were , but hoping for a slight revival of the forums .

I went to cable linkage and no regrets . Glad someone gets something from all I’ve posted over the years

Follow the instructions for current type tach . It’s been too long so I can’t remember which ones it was .

Doing a upgrade on a 72 . I would recommend what was said earlier , run a relay . I would get a T for your oil pressure sender and add a pressure switch and use it as the ground for the relay . I would pull power from the battery directly for the relay . I would run the pump 12v from the relay and tie into the green wire under the glove box . I don’t know whether I would use the ground back at the tank or just ground the pump at the chassis at the pump - probably the latter . I would order a fuel pump meant for an older carb engine like a Mazda rx7 . Summit carries a Carter that puts out 2.5lbs of pressure - perfect for triples and no regulator needed - 50$. Wouldn’t hurt to put a inertia switch in line with the pump for safety

G- Force is rated at 650lbs I believe . and it’s more like 3500 $

From my research you have a zone you need to stay in or stay out of . Maybe this engine is based on the latter . I was surprised to see it myself . Running a 38cc head to get 10.75:1 . It runs good and haven’t blown it up yet!

.025

I’ll keep you in mind if this trans is junk