madkaw

Actually it's a 1" bar and I contacted ST and sent them pics and dimensions of the sway bar and they say the dimensions are correct. So why am I having to run a spacer . They want more pics of sway bar and any mods to car. So what mods would affect the clearance ?

New ST kit and the 1 1/8" front bar under full droop ( jacked off ground) hits the oil pump bolt pretty hard . It took about 7/16" worth of spacers to clear the bolt by 1/8" . Seems wrong to me. I know full droop would be basically airborne , but worst case scenario it seems that the bar would smack the oil pump pretty dam hard . Feedback please . Let me add that weight on the wheels and clearance grows to 1/2"

Is that the 4 speed auto?

Called Futofab and verified play in axle. More than necessary for our cars , but shouldn't negatively affect anything . Also questioned the torque requirement on the bolts and he said he will revisit this. 35lbs is too much for 8mm bolts.

You can buy them new all day long for cheap also

I figured it out a long time ago. Glad to see someone carried the torch on this. Good work!!

Get the AFM in there very first thing to see if your not way lean or something . Plugs look okay?

I have read that putting a rear sway bar on does not improve handling- even make it worse if using the stock front bar. I have not found much info on it searching in general. There's not even much to read that is subjective. Love to see some testing done at an autocross from an experienced driver . So many factors involved between shocks , springs , etc...

There are clips on the very ends . After I thought about it - I figured they couldn't move once torque was applied to the splines . Wasn't a big fan of the Allen heads and trying to get 35lbs or torque on them. Had 2 bolt heads strip out. I know their tight I guess . Now the safety wire job- this ought to be time consuming :0

Got some clearance by shortening bushing. Question regarding axles. With everything mounted on I can grab the shaft and slide it back and forth enough to hear it banging the adapters - is that normal ?

Even if I increased my bar up front?

Shouldn't it clear from any position?

Just bought the sway bar

Try anothe pic

Installing my WCR axles and ST rear seat bar and they aren't getting along. I took out the spacer bushing on the sway bar , but still need more. The bolt I'm using ran out of threads so I will gain a bit more when I can tighten the ends more. Anyone else deal with this ?

Glad this thread came up since I am getting ready to go EFI with my 71 . I have a hybrid fuel tank also(CJ-5) , and I have been using the stock vent box, but I want to just get rid of it. Fuel Tank inc just uses 2 vents on their universal tanks. One for the filler neck and one other to vent tank to atmosphere. My problem is tank is right up against floor and the vent needs to stay vertical and there isn't much room to go anywhere. I could use the original vent line and run the vent up front and grab a canister off of some other car. So doing all this emissions cause me to get check engine lights now?

Dragging up an old thread . Buddy got a 280/280 Isky . We went to degree it and same issue- wrong numbers . Pretty sad if you ask me. To make matters worse we found the balancer that Damper Doc rebuilt was off TDC by at least 15 degrees . Don't assume anything guys

I think it's a matter of paying the man or getting a different head . So you find out how much it is to weld but that is just the first part. Did you consider a p79 or p90 and shave? How about a mn47 and port . An early e31? Why box yourself in with the 42 head that will need so much work . That work should be left to the professionals

I guess I really got lucky since I heard and drove mine before plucking it from the motor. 500$ and sold everything I could pull off the car-lol

Good deal!!

Looking for the later version of the spray bar, or a new one! PayPal ready. Pics please

Okay- I'll be waiting

Pics sent to S_finnerty1018@comcast.net quote name="Aswad1981" post="1174401" timestamp="1467691978"]Got the whole rig except module.$150 shipped.

Tried to find it on eBay so I can get one, but can't seem to find a current listing. I'd buy if I could find:)

I know you posted this on classic too. Not sure why you think something better than a stock unit. A gear reduction unit like pictured is a later year STOCK unit. Best advice is to take your starter and find someone who rebuilds them locally. Maybe they can throw a few more winds in there so it will have more torque