madkaw

Take all the help I can get.

Fuel pump is done right. Separate relays , heavy gauge wire, pusher close to tank - high volume low pressure carter .

Once again the Chickenman speaks truth- I screwed up because I had a fuel pressure gauge already under the hood and could have whipped it out for the run, but Nnoooooo, I didn't think to look at it to see if I was maintaining pressure correctly. I think you confirmed my suspicions that the long run is running me lean. This car takes no time to rev out on the highway. That same day I did a pass and let off at 5800 because the speed was getting to high - but it pulled hard all the way there. That didn't seem to translate to the dyno. If I was thinking I would have checked fuel pressure first, then I would have richened up my floats - it's so easy on these carbs. Only then would I have considered going bigger jets . The operator said the AFR was kind of in a bad area - he rather see richer and or leaner, something he said about cylinder pressures. The fact is I screwed up. After thinking about it I never even verified throttle plates opened 100% Glass filters removed a while back- they are junk and gave me fits. I'd love to have an areomotive FPR, but want to spend that money on one for my FI . Wish I ran a return line , but dead head it is and stays, but need to verify pressure. Pump is a high volume carter at 4 psi with a Holley regulator.

Thanks Ryan, that opens up ideas a lot. Flapper wheel and a good mic- I have a good mic!!

I will say that my Vtalonis are holding up well. While my inside rear view is blurry from vibration my sideviews are clear! They still seem to hold there position well and I've run into them walking around my garage several times.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/251877666824 You could buy these specifically made Datsun Vitaloni for the cheap some of 200$ -lol So you take 100$ mirrors and mount them on your Datsun and raise the price 100%

Wonder if my floats are just a tad on the lean side and the prolonged run on the dyno put them over too lean?

The guy has never sent me the email with the sheet

Leon, Same dyno, same operator. He said I was running lean though my Innovate showed around 13+. He ran his sniffer at the tail pipe and said it might show lean, but than said I WAS lean. WOT runs on the highway showed spot on. The car has never run stronger and better. Since last dyno I reduced the chambers to 39cc but now run an ISKY 490/290 vs. 480/274 Schneider. i am going to a different dyno next time because of location , so I will compare. I was running 150 mains and 180 airs during dyno. First run I noticed my AFR peg lean deep into the run. Never happened on the road like that. Something to do with the slow ramp up in rpms? It seemed to take forever to get to 6500 on the dyno. Could he have had a setting wrong?

Been a while , but I guess that's a good thing. Car has really been running well . Went to the dyno and got lack luster results. Basically dyno numbers weren't much different than running SU's - about 150hp. The few Z owners I know can't believe that it's only 150 the way the car performs. Anyhow , I was considering larger chokes. I stated earlier in the thread that I had 34's, but they are just 32's. This Mikuni package was part of a complete street kit. This was meant to bolt on to a stock motor so 32's were plenty. I think those 32's are choking me up a bit and wanted to bigger. None available . So you guys that have machines out your 32 's to a bigger size - tell me about it. I was considering 35mm since my ports are only about that big anyway. Don't know how thin that makes the venturis? Is this something any machine shop could be trusted to do? Also installing a .6mm HG to pump things up a bit.

240mm flywheel cut down to 17lbs . Very responsive with exedy stage 2 clutch I believe . Very drivable

Got it figured out I believe. See the pics , but the pintle caps supplied in Pallnets kit work fine -operator error here:) I just didn't have the pintle caps all the way on, they need to be tapped all the way on the pintle until seated. Then you use the spacer and O-ring supplied . I had no odd what I was doing, so it probably would have been more obvious to most. The pintle that came with the injectors is too wide to clear the hole and keeps the O-ring from sealing- gray pintle cap.

Dave is adamant about the poor rod / stroke ratio of the L24 rods. He convinced me to have my crank offset ground. My concern was grinding on the journals would limit rebuilds , but not so since he uses a standard Honda bearing size. He has other magic he also performs with the journals. Can't wait to be there. The sound of your motor was great, but was it about rod/stroke or just a radical cam and open exhaust? Your videos inspired me to want to have a big bore -big cam motor

That sucks. Now your budget just took another hit. $$ for those crankshafts. Dave have any at Rebello? Just talked to Dave the other day about my 3.2 build.

Don't know if I can help you with your specific questions - especially the transmission . I thought the zx trans were all vacuum controlled , no ECU control, so that shows you what I know-lol. I think most of the platforms are the same with the MS units, I think any MS would be better than stock ECU. I actually used some of the relays and such from a ZXT for my MS install. All I can say is that when you think you've read enough about MS , go back and read more

And putting MS in parallel with stock ECU- why? Have you read some of the installs on hybridz- like mine on the MS3x?

I'd say by listening to your question you have more learning to do . They probably recommended the SlimJim based on your knowledge . Did I use one- no- but spend days and days studying and Reading MS manuals . Because you know how to solder you can put a circuit board together ? And please use punctuation when posting so we can understand you.

One hot wire for power, don't have heat yet

Just finished 350z power , heated , leather seats. Really like the seats and yes it's tight. Managed to get drivers seat low enough to sit in there with a helmet on. I'm 6'2", so pretty happy with that. Yes they are a bit heavy and yes I would have preferred manual seats , but the price was too good to pass up and the stitching matches my car-lol

The injector does fit in the hole better with the other Oring and pintle . Though the Oring does not go all the way in the injector bore , it does look like it seals at the top. You do have to pull the injector out of there after seating it and the Oring shows a even mark around the edge like it is sealing . There really isn't anymore room for the injector body to seat since it is almost against the bosses on the runner now. The long pintle concerns me because the hole sits off of the injector spray holes. There is a gap between the pintle opening and injector nozzles, so will that impede the spray ? I guess I could run without the pintle caps also?

So I've read on line that folks just change out the pintle and O-ring on a 14mm injector at the manifold side to a smaller Oring to fit a 11mm hole. I bought a 14mm fuel rail from Pallnet and want to use it on my n42 intake. He sent me a "hybrid" seal kit with the rail, but not sure how it works. The pintle cap he supplied is longer than the one that came with my Bosch injector, but the O- ring is the same size , or very close. The O-ring is too big to fit in the manifold hole, just kind of seals it off sitting in the chamfer of the hole. So what am I missing here. It seems the O-ring should be smaller to allow to slide all the way in. I've never messed with injectors so I am an idiot when it comes to this. I did cut off the Bosch pintle cap and the one Pallnet supplied snapped on there, but couldn't use the spacer , just the Oring .

Right now I run a CJ-5 tank in the same location. I didn't need a fuel cell since I'm not racing mine. It is a plastic tank with metal cage. I also wanted to keep the fill point at stock location. Don't want fuel in my hatch. Getting ready to convert to FI and might change out my tank for a fully baffled steel one from Tank.inc . They also sell tanks with various filler necks to keep stock fueling. As far as fuel pump, just ordered a Delco OEM pump for a F-150. External pump with OEM reliability . Fuel inc. sells the tank with Walbro pump for about 400$

Kind of went thru a similar situation with a buddy and his fresh rebuilt L24. After the engine was warm it would rattle like detonation at around 2500-3000 rpm. We did every thing timing including a different dizzy. Tore the motor down for fear of damage. A different engine shop looked at and determined the bores were over honed and left too much piston clearance. The original engine shop tried to save original bore size and bones the sh!t out of it. I think it was like 6-8 thou over spec. Couldn't find any other reason for the sound. Engine is NOT back together yet. The bores looked like crap for what little miles it had on it.

They wouldn't ship?

I would also recommend stock ones in good shape!