madkaw

I'm interested also

The title says it all. Just the pedestal will work, but would consider the whole rig. Paypal ready

I don't mind paying premium price if I'm getting a premium part. Almost 300 for a flawed part? Don't think I would be happy. If I told them I was painting it so appearance was not priority - then maybe

So you are saying you used an early HG that had oval shaped holes and you came up short on the top and bottom. It's not easy to see the oval shape unless you are looking for it. You throw that 31 on there and your CR is going to take another jump! Were you using a 1mm gasket ?

.035 gap? Shouldn't you be 40+

Cam?

Hate to hear you learned the hard way . I had some issues with that machinist himself -as far as running a business- but I think he knows what he's doing. He was so frustrated with those valves and refused to use them. Inferior quality in hardness. He said the valves wore funny on the stems and they cut weird too.

Damn- the same old boring sh!t

Google my friend. Just searched Cometic gaskets. They have about 4 different thicknesses I believe

Don't see many pics of these so I thought I would share . This one is a .026" gasket. Looks like quality stuff and should be for the price. Plus you get a cool sticker too!!

Doing more searching and pulled up RaceTeps page which sell the 4070 carter for their triple set-ups. They run NO regulator . Now if you read advertised psi on these pumps they are described as 4-8 psi? Gph is twice the rating as my carter which is 30gph . The more I think about , the more my head hurts-LOL. Actually, a pump on a triple set-up is feeding three bowls compare to most one bowl set-ups-makes a difference?

Okay-so the regulator is gone. I ran the car with the fuel pressure gauge out on the bonnet and it is showing 3.5 at idle. Driving around it fluctuates slightly from as low as 3 to as much as 4. Not sure what to make of that. It seems when driving and coming to a stop the pressure rises slightly to close to 4 and harder runs it dips to 3. Kind of hard to duplicate a dyno run on the street to watch my AFRs . It did seem that the AFRs did start to creep lean around 5K rpm in 4th gear, but now I'm 100mph+. I believe the Carter I have is good for 30gph-surely enough. So what about float levels? Could the float level set at the ragged edge of the minimum not be enough on a long WOT run? I think that the pump that has ample volume should keep the pressure right at advertised 4psi, or line loss should be accounted for? I also need to do a voltage check at the pump

I could never get my 40's smaller than a 62 pilot. You should be able to get that idle less also with that cam.

Fascinating as always! Every time I read another post in this thread I realize what an amatuer builder I am- but I'm okay with that:)

I always enjoy reading your posts - and your plan sounds good to me! It is a journey. For me it has been about learning and honing my skills. I have several engines going at once , but what makes it fun right now is I have one to drive meanwhile. So get back driving

Damn brother - that sucks. I guess I should feel fortunate with my small set backs. I hammer on my engine every time I'm out too. Hope you find time to get it back rolling:(

Believe me Ryan, I've already contemplated this. It is only a 4psi pump, so I might delete the regulator for a while and see how things go. I've had folks mention that the small pressure differential also makes the regulator harder to operate properly. I should have a 12psi pump in there or something for the regulator to regulate properly. I have also read where guys run the pump with no regulator. I was running the RX-7 pump for a while and changed it out when I was having issues-which turned out to be that dam Mr.Gasket glass filter. The Carter is a higher volume pump though.

Here's my deal. I could spend 200$ for a areomotive low pressure regulator, but then have to turn around and change it out to go FI. The 13222 regulator is supposed to be for very low pressures , but yet not a bypass. I might just do the run again and this time carefully monitor things. Might just take a tweek of the float levels to be good. Probably go back after installing new HG. Might also punch out the chokes too. As far as a bypass and large enough return, I'm planning on using the evap line that is on the drivers side that goes back to the vent box. It's a 1/4" and should be big enough for a return for our engines and more.

Take all the help I can get.

Fuel pump is done right. Separate relays , heavy gauge wire, pusher close to tank - high volume low pressure carter .

Once again the Chickenman speaks truth- I screwed up because I had a fuel pressure gauge already under the hood and could have whipped it out for the run, but Nnoooooo, I didn't think to look at it to see if I was maintaining pressure correctly. I think you confirmed my suspicions that the long run is running me lean. This car takes no time to rev out on the highway. That same day I did a pass and let off at 5800 because the speed was getting to high - but it pulled hard all the way there. That didn't seem to translate to the dyno. If I was thinking I would have checked fuel pressure first, then I would have richened up my floats - it's so easy on these carbs. Only then would I have considered going bigger jets . The operator said the AFR was kind of in a bad area - he rather see richer and or leaner, something he said about cylinder pressures. The fact is I screwed up. After thinking about it I never even verified throttle plates opened 100% Glass filters removed a while back- they are junk and gave me fits. I'd love to have an areomotive FPR, but want to spend that money on one for my FI . Wish I ran a return line , but dead head it is and stays, but need to verify pressure. Pump is a high volume carter at 4 psi with a Holley regulator.

Thanks Ryan, that opens up ideas a lot. Flapper wheel and a good mic- I have a good mic!!

I will say that my Vtalonis are holding up well. While my inside rear view is blurry from vibration my sideviews are clear! They still seem to hold there position well and I've run into them walking around my garage several times.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/251877666824 You could buy these specifically made Datsun Vitaloni for the cheap some of 200$ -lol So you take 100$ mirrors and mount them on your Datsun and raise the price 100%

Wonder if my floats are just a tad on the lean side and the prolonged run on the dyno put them over too lean?