madkaw

2.8 was all there and clean. Dumb ass took the cam bolt out for some reason so when I turned the motor over for a compression test - yep, the sprocket fell off . Cylinders looked great!! I'll have to come up an see the project when you start cracking at it again

If you are about driving a sports car, then you can be happy with the 240z with some work. Drive like a turd? if anything, the early Z(well set-up) brings back the driving experience of a sports car. Stay away from mods that induce harsh road noise, insulate the car, put triples on the L24 and keep up with your 300zx!

OMG-did I finally solve the transition issue!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So what the hell, why not try something completely different. I took out my bleed pipes and loctited the top row of holes-that's it, that's all I did and no more stumble. My AFR's don't peg lean during mild tip-in like before. I might see 16 just for a second and that it settles back to the 14-15's. It is a DEFINITE improvement. I will need to pull out the bleed pipes again to make sure the red Loctite held under the fuel exposure, but I'm stoked

Sequential is a nice option, but not really necessary unless you are looking for that last 2% of HP. Though DIY sells the sequential, Crammer's book HP FI down plays the necessity of it. The MS3X does give that option as well as many more-built in.

Thanks Jon, I sent my emulsion tube off to Franck and he made a 3D model of it I guess. He made a suggestion that I followed. The suggestion he offered, suggested to me, that he doesn't know Mikuni carbs or that the operating principles are different then the Webers(which he seems to know a lot about). There was no improvement and it actually ran worse. Not bashing the guy at all, but it sounds like he is going many different directions right now-especially with the Webers. He said he thought there was too much volume in the e-tubes and we attempted to reduce that volume. I'm not sure that I am going to persist to try and get that last percentage of a EFI drivability out of triples. The issue is not dangerous and will not cause any damage to the motor. With the right cam this might be a non-issue. The carbs idle perfect at 750 rpm every time and accelerate like triples should. AFR's are very good in almost all driving conditions. I plan on dynoing with the triples and then putting them on the market so I can pursue EFI. As far as the bleed pipe holes, I work with a guy that is a carb wizard and runs at 10 second Buick. I described my issue to him and he went straight for the bleed pipe holes. I thought about closing up a couple of the holes to see what happens, but I'm running out of good weather. Not sure if I want to do all the work to cater to my build when I am going to sell these off.

So wait - aren't you the guy that is still doing auto mechanics 101 and now you are giving advice. Not sure you want to do that -especially here. You need to learn your own car before trying to help others. I'm just saying that if you are paying outside help to do BASIC auto tech , then you SHOULDN'T be giving advice

I would check the new ones before installing also

Can't say where my rockers came from(MSA cam kit from Schneider), but my rockers wee as much as .014 difference in flatness between the two surfaces. It shows on the cam and the lash pads. I tightened up my tolerances a couple of thou and it eliminated almost all ticking. The engine didn't start out this way, it progressively got worse with break in. I guess that's why some vendors are putting out CNC rockers because of the inconsistency. I believe the ticking did get more audible when the engine warmed up.

Well I have pretty much decided on a 60mm TB off of a 5.0 mustang - mid nineties model I believe. Why- cheap and available that met my size requirements plus pwm idle control and TPS. Also hundreds of upgrade and aftermarket support is available. The TB is pretty simple with only one vacuum line coming off the actual TB itself which can be easily plugged. This should leave a fairly uncluttered looking set up. The idle control unit is long and kind of big, but I am hoping I will be able to mount the TB in such a way to put it down below - out of sight. I will need to make a mounting plate but have some 3/4" 6061 plate laying around from an aircraft bulkhead. Injectors from the same induction system work out well to- 19lb /14mm injectors . Also have decided to NOT use cable linkage and make rod linkage work using the Cannon mounting points. It should be easy to modify the Mustang TB linkage to attach rod ball.

Sorry pete, cleaned out my message box weeks ago

You might get lucky Pete. I had someone reply to my part wanted ad for that bracket, but decided to make my own since i didn't want to mess with the heater hose.

Not quite sure what you are referencing.

Might suggest ClassicZcar site also. This site is very technical compared to ClassicZ and dumb questions might get ignored. I think you will find a more patient crowd over there for basic questions.

Sounds like maybe the tensioner eased out a little. Try shoving your chain block further down or something

Maybe need to turn the cam to meet the sprocket hole?

I'm not going say it's worth it to put in a t-5 to replace a zx trans , but saying the t-5 shifts lousy - I don't agree. With an after market shifter it has excellent shifting qualities. For racing the ratio spread is not good, but for street fun, it's fine if not good. Two lower first gears for fast 0-60 and a long third for a passing gear .

You will also need the diff flange to mate with the dedicated T-5 DS

Well the other day was all about sorting wires. I won't be using all the wires for my build or future builds and I would prefer to only have one wire bundle running thru my firewall. So I got out my wiring diagrams supplied by DIY and started the process of elimination. There is some redundancy with the MS3X card which allows this plus there is enough wiring to do more then 6 cylinders. Without selling myself short i think I eliminated at least 20 wires. When I say eliminate, I will be just bundling them aside and storing them somewhere out of the way in the car. I've decided to seperate all sensor wiring and running them a different route. The main harness will go thru the firewall where the holes are for my AC that come out under the batter tray. The sensor wiring will run behind the heater box and enter the engine compartment thru the old choke hole. This gets all sensor wiring away from power grounds, plus most sensors will be coming from that side of the engine anyway. In the end I had all the wires I will be using in one harness and all the others in another. I decided to mount the box where you see it. This allows for for a smooth flow of wires and easy access to my SD card.

I guess I was looking for rationales of signifigance like the engine mount brackets were twisting on earlier engines and Nissan decided to beef up the bracket. Or the trans brackets stopped vibration or something to that effect. I am constantly reading threads all over this site and others an never have read anything about these differences. It's one of those deals that I thought I had missed something of importance that everyone alread knows;) The intake plenum seemed counter intuitive when it seems that progress has been more towards bigger is better. Plus in reading all the swapping(hybriding) that goes on here I never heard anyone mention to 'stay away from the 83zx intake', or that it was sized completely different then earlier versions. I rrealize that there are always going to be changes -for the better we hope-, but I thought the plenum looked like nothing more then another runner it is so small. Maybe this is just a thread for the tool shed-LOL

So not sure how I was going to title this but I just acquired a 83zx motor. I have primarily messed with the L24 and have messed around with some L28's, but have not torn down a Zx until now. So the first thing I noticed is the motor mount brackets have a center gusset where my L 24 brackets are just an open bracket- any significance to this ? Also noticed the aluminum trans brackets . I thought these were only on the turbo motors using the T-5, but I guess I was wrong. Brackets any significance ? Something else that jumped out at me was the intake plenum size - TINY- compared to older intakes. Again, why the change ? Sorry if these are simple questions but having a hard time finding answers.

I think I have the overhead light panel and the rear tail light panel - inspection covers

Well at least you fixed up your spindle bushings in te mean while. It just shows you how noises transmit around the suspensions on these cars

They can be somewhat comfortable , but if you compare to a Z4 like the OP- you will be very disappointed. New cushions for the 240z seats makes a huge difference as well as a quiet cab - no pescky air leaks and rattles. It can be done for 10k , but with very careful planning and lots of work.

bump

Well I have decommissioned my Z for a good cause-I hope. Leon, got a hold of Keith, and my E-tube with jets is on the way to CA. I guess he will make a 3D model of it to beable to make new bleed pipes! Sounds like he hasn't seen too many Mikuni set ups since he was a bit suprised of the inner bleed pipe. If this is successful I will have to take both sets of bleed pipes to the dyno so we can see the results documented. Love to beable to see a flat AFR curve!