madkaw

Drove threw your neck of the woods- Naptown is appropriate Finally grabbed that motor and I think I did alright, but no compression test yet.

Another wow

Wow

You guys get a lot more out 10k then I would. Why strut bars or coil overs or heavy sway bars. He wants to drive it daily and be comfortable. Don't need to lower the car much to have a good stance and don't need hard shocks or springs to handle well. Unfinished projects are good and best are the ones that the body work has been done- that's the big $$&

I guess I should do more reading and less posting-LOL Looks like MS has answered my question again. Semi-sequential in MS3 operates for fuel like 'wasted-COP' does for spark. Each output operates once every 360 degrees with half the fuel required for a full cycle. A cam sensor is not typically required to run semi-sequential, just a crank sensor. Due to the way the code operates, there are a number of restrictions in this mode and cylinder trim is not possible. Semi-sequential may however, but a useful 'stepping-stone' during an install as the injector wiring is identical to full sequential.

Anyone want to confirm for me that I can wire my injectors NON-sequential using the MS3X connector? The MS manual makes it sound like it's better to wire batch injection off the main connector. It looks like to me that the firmware can make the adjustment to the non sequential -but want to make sure before I starting running wires.

You will also need the pinion flange from the diff on the turbo car. The T-5 is a PITA that way because of the dedicated DS. I also say that Jamal is great to deal with, everything I ever got from him was great!!

If your looking for refinement then you it will take up some of your budget. You don't need a ton of HP to have fun and enjoy the 'sports car' experience of the Z. You want to drive it all the time, then make it comfortable. Quality seats, don't go solid on any suspension stuff(solid diff mount), sporty suspension bits, but none race caliper stuff. A little sound deading but a sweet sounding exhaust. Fun gearing with a LSD and 200hp and you will smile-turbo is good too. Engine swaps(other then L6) amp up the frustration factor and eat up time till you start driving.

Put up a picture of that flywheel when you can.

Well I will do it like recommended by MS and go from there.

Ben, not sure what you mean as far as digital copies of my wiring. I am going straight off the pages of MS3 manual schematics. As far as a trigger wheel-not tested , but should work in theroy-see pic. I am going to use a hall effect sensor for a direct Flywheel trigger

Maybe, but I have read plenty other threads where the fit was tight. Again, just run the suspension threw its travel before total assembling.

3800 at 70mph is a big factor. I run 3.90's with the t-5 overdrive and run about 3000 at 70

If the urethane was shredded on the hub side, you have an issue. Fix your issue first, then when you reinstall, check for proper movement of the outboard LCA bushings

I guess I am not recieving messages because i have 200 too many I tried deleting, but it says there is an authorization issue. moderators please delete my PM's

I wish Todd would pop in on this conversation;)

Leon, I guess my message box is full and I can't delete them. s_finnerty1018@comcast.net

Holes in the E-tube or the bleed pipe? How would I go about contacting him? Or is that only through the Yahoo Group? The other interesting thing is that some mikuni's don't even use the bleed pipe.

So I have verified that the emulsion tubes have a 8 stamped on them, but couldn't match that with anything in the catalog. The bleed pipes had a 'T' stamped on it, again, it matches nothing in the mikuni catalog. If I were to temporarily alter the emulsion tube/bleed pipe to start transition from the main sooner, how would or could I do that?

leon, you seem to be saying here what I have seen myself with the Mikuni's.I've been trying fix a problem with transition by oversizing all around the issue. I tried many times to register on the Yahoo group, but never had any luck. I finally just got frustrated and gave up, but it sounds like some good info on there. I would also say cam selection and engine purpose have a lot to do with this. I almost think that the more radical the cam, the easier it would be to tune these 'racing carb' set-ups. My stage 2 cam puts big demands in the mid range which causes a big draw in this transition area, making it tought to tune out. Developing a tune with this carbs for everyday driving situations is a challenge.

Okay - thanks

I'm a little surprised the OP didn't do the drill trick after the first cam ate it. I did it just out of curiosity and to prove the double oiling method wasn't folk lore. If I had lost a cam, I would have had even more motivated. Since I am posting I am going to throw this out to you guys pertaining to oil pressure issues. If the block oil supply hole WAS enlarged for better oiling but the HG hole was not, would that somehow effect pressure?

It's funny I just happen to pop on this page to see you guys are discussing my same issue on the Mikunis!! Transition- transition- transition I have exhausted all angles to fix my lean issue in the 3500rpm range- sometimes a bit higher. It is only a problem during moderate acc under load. I have been up and down the scale of main air and main jet. I have increased float levels and have changed acc pumps and settings- nothing seems to eliminate this. I can watch my wideband gauge as AFRS climb 16+ or more during this lean- stumble area. The only thing I haven't tried is changing emulsion tubes, but not many options for that. So I am intrigued about this conversation of plugging some of the holes in the bleed pipe. Not sure if Webers are the same, but probably similar enough. I was thinking of modifying the bleed pipe, but wasn't sure of the theory of how it works. So shutting off some of the holes at the top of the bleed pipe should help draw more fuel in sooner??? I couldn't be happier with the way the carbs run everywhere else . Cruise is 14.5-15 and WOT is 13ish Idle I set at 13ish because the car starts best there.

When you tighten down the nut -at the end of the spindle bolt- you should be pressing the large washer against the metal sleeve tight enough to keep it from moving. The urethane bushing should pivot around the metal sleeve. The metal sleeve should be long enough so that the urethane bushing- flanges also have room to move-but not too much to create slop. Make sense? Sounds like you still have some bind somewhere

So there's no option to move the fuseable links forward where you have all that space?