madkaw

I've been talking with a local guy that does CF parts. I would only consider asking him to make one that is a complete replacement - not a cover. If you are going to all that trouble to make a mold for the dash, do the whole thing and save weight

I'm about to finish up mine. If it works out I might make another since I have another piece of aluminum. I'm in the process of wiring now so I want to see how that works out with the bracket. This winter should provide plenty of work time on the Z

Chris, What did you come up with for your d585 mount? Pics?

Thanks for sharing. What are you using to trigger from the cam to make full sequential?

Hate to see that nice ride torn up. E-mail me and send you pics of a door I have. S_finnerty1018@comcast.net

I am assuming you are referring to the rear flanges that were original meant for the drums. I didn't even measure mine, I just took the stub axles off and sent them to the machine shop to have machined. I figured Arizona Z knew what they were doing , so I didn't question it. I don't think much had to come off and I haven't had any issues. Measuring .003 out of flat on the flange will mean that further out on a 12" rotor -it will be worse. It's a PITA , but you probably need to do it.

I wouldn't spend a lot of money for an original shaft when you can probably have one made for around 300$. The OEM DS has non -replaceable U joints. You will also have to have the diff yoke from the ZXT r200 to mate with that DS.

Vacuum advance ?

It's always too slow isn't it?! Looking good.

Have you verified your timing with a light- total advance ?

Did you degree the cam or did the shop?

Can you elaborate on the issues you had with the crank sensor and position. I have not tested mine yet, but I am hoping it will work. If you are still at assembly stage on your engine, this method of using the flywheel is the cheapest and easiest in my opinion. A 20$ sensor and a drill press. Granted-you should have the flywheel balanced afterwards which adds to cost.

Suprised more folks don't go this route.... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90889-wasted-spark-ignition-no-edis/

The title does give you leverage for a better price. If you resell later it will be tough, but you know the previous damage and the car is just for your fun and not as a collectable- then I would consider it for the right price .

What year L24 do you have? Maybe a good head on that engine? What are your HP goals? Have you driven a modified L6? L24, L28 -you might be happy with strong L24 Going straight to triples on a new engine-I think that's a bad idea. get your feet wet with the SU's-THEN go to triples.

I guess not too many to benefit from the info:) I guess my fix is the same as your suggestion of smaller boost venturi's?

The loctite seemed to be a good(maybe temporary) fix because it would be easy to drill out later. There is no room for anything as far as covering the holes. It has to be perfectly flush fill or the bleed pipe won't fit back in the E-tube. I need to check to see how it's holding up.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110671-newly-rebuilt-engine-with-loud-tapping-noise-even-at-idle/page-5 I put up pics of my wear in this thread

Suprised none of the "pundants" of the triple world haven't commented on this! It seemed like from responses to my thread that others have dealt with this too, but have never heard of anyone altering the bleed pipe. I need to identify the fuel level in relation to the bleed pipe. Keith Franck at sidedraft central wants to include this in his 3D model to help explain the dynamics. Essentially I have eliminated some of the 'bleeding' off of pressure by closing some of the holes. This in turn boosted the signal from my venturi and helped draw from the main jet in a more timely matter. I guess the E-tubes on Mikunis are significantly bigger(volume) then Webers?

So you haven't seen any visual wear marks on the lash pads that is unusual? I had more miles on my motor, but the uneven wear was easily visable on the lash pads. You could tell the rocker was weighted towards one side or the other on the lash pad. Even the bottom side of the lash pad wore uneven against the valve stem. Maybe you could clean things up and put some blue dykem on there and run it and check for wear? Have you tried a stethascope?

Can you not pinpoint the noise with a stethoscope or something. I took an old valve cover and cut a hole in the top so I can look and hear. Didn't wind up using it but you can borrow it if you want

Simple, but to the point advice- lol Keep your tire size to 225 max and you might get lucky

Not sure ANY aftermarket panels just plop in place without working them . To say that the Zedd panels don't work with stock rails is not really correct. With some caressing they would probably be undetectable after installed. I have installed the Zedd floors and rails- though not perfect, they worked well and looked stock. It's how much time you want to put into it. If anything , I noticed the outboard side of the floor panel was not formed quite right and it caused the floor to be too low with respect to the frame rail . This is fixable.

These would be difficult to paint since very little is paintable . You have a large rubber boot and a logo to contend with. Updated review: still very happy with these. Passenger side started to move around a little but it was just the Allen bolt loose on the stem assembly. Tightened up and no other issues.

Very good points. What I was trying to say was there too much emphasis on sequential for some. Someone posted on my thread that it was a waste of gas to not go sequential-really. MS3x is nice that it can be wired for sequential ---eventually---once i get my feet wet:) I already have ideas on how I am going to run a trigger wheel for the cam, but too many other things t o do first---like wire the damn thing-LOL