madkaw

I'm not going say it's worth it to put in a t-5 to replace a zx trans , but saying the t-5 shifts lousy - I don't agree. With an after market shifter it has excellent shifting qualities. For racing the ratio spread is not good, but for street fun, it's fine if not good. Two lower first gears for fast 0-60 and a long third for a passing gear .

You will also need the diff flange to mate with the dedicated T-5 DS

Well the other day was all about sorting wires. I won't be using all the wires for my build or future builds and I would prefer to only have one wire bundle running thru my firewall. So I got out my wiring diagrams supplied by DIY and started the process of elimination. There is some redundancy with the MS3X card which allows this plus there is enough wiring to do more then 6 cylinders. Without selling myself short i think I eliminated at least 20 wires. When I say eliminate, I will be just bundling them aside and storing them somewhere out of the way in the car. I've decided to seperate all sensor wiring and running them a different route. The main harness will go thru the firewall where the holes are for my AC that come out under the batter tray. The sensor wiring will run behind the heater box and enter the engine compartment thru the old choke hole. This gets all sensor wiring away from power grounds, plus most sensors will be coming from that side of the engine anyway. In the end I had all the wires I will be using in one harness and all the others in another. I decided to mount the box where you see it. This allows for for a smooth flow of wires and easy access to my SD card.

I guess I was looking for rationales of signifigance like the engine mount brackets were twisting on earlier engines and Nissan decided to beef up the bracket. Or the trans brackets stopped vibration or something to that effect. I am constantly reading threads all over this site and others an never have read anything about these differences. It's one of those deals that I thought I had missed something of importance that everyone alread knows;) The intake plenum seemed counter intuitive when it seems that progress has been more towards bigger is better. Plus in reading all the swapping(hybriding) that goes on here I never heard anyone mention to 'stay away from the 83zx intake', or that it was sized completely different then earlier versions. I rrealize that there are always going to be changes -for the better we hope-, but I thought the plenum looked like nothing more then another runner it is so small. Maybe this is just a thread for the tool shed-LOL

So not sure how I was going to title this but I just acquired a 83zx motor. I have primarily messed with the L24 and have messed around with some L28's, but have not torn down a Zx until now. So the first thing I noticed is the motor mount brackets have a center gusset where my L 24 brackets are just an open bracket- any significance to this ? Also noticed the aluminum trans brackets . I thought these were only on the turbo motors using the T-5, but I guess I was wrong. Brackets any significance ? Something else that jumped out at me was the intake plenum size - TINY- compared to older intakes. Again, why the change ? Sorry if these are simple questions but having a hard time finding answers.

I think I have the overhead light panel and the rear tail light panel - inspection covers

Well at least you fixed up your spindle bushings in te mean while. It just shows you how noises transmit around the suspensions on these cars

They can be somewhat comfortable , but if you compare to a Z4 like the OP- you will be very disappointed. New cushions for the 240z seats makes a huge difference as well as a quiet cab - no pescky air leaks and rattles. It can be done for 10k , but with very careful planning and lots of work.

bump

Well I have decommissioned my Z for a good cause-I hope. Leon, got a hold of Keith, and my E-tube with jets is on the way to CA. I guess he will make a 3D model of it to beable to make new bleed pipes! Sounds like he hasn't seen too many Mikuni set ups since he was a bit suprised of the inner bleed pipe. If this is successful I will have to take both sets of bleed pipes to the dyno so we can see the results documented. Love to beable to see a flat AFR curve!

Drove threw your neck of the woods- Naptown is appropriate Finally grabbed that motor and I think I did alright, but no compression test yet.

Another wow

Wow

You guys get a lot more out 10k then I would. Why strut bars or coil overs or heavy sway bars. He wants to drive it daily and be comfortable. Don't need to lower the car much to have a good stance and don't need hard shocks or springs to handle well. Unfinished projects are good and best are the ones that the body work has been done- that's the big $$&

I guess I should do more reading and less posting-LOL Looks like MS has answered my question again. Semi-sequential in MS3 operates for fuel like 'wasted-COP' does for spark. Each output operates once every 360 degrees with half the fuel required for a full cycle. A cam sensor is not typically required to run semi-sequential, just a crank sensor. Due to the way the code operates, there are a number of restrictions in this mode and cylinder trim is not possible. Semi-sequential may however, but a useful 'stepping-stone' during an install as the injector wiring is identical to full sequential.

Anyone want to confirm for me that I can wire my injectors NON-sequential using the MS3X connector? The MS manual makes it sound like it's better to wire batch injection off the main connector. It looks like to me that the firmware can make the adjustment to the non sequential -but want to make sure before I starting running wires.

You will also need the pinion flange from the diff on the turbo car. The T-5 is a PITA that way because of the dedicated DS. I also say that Jamal is great to deal with, everything I ever got from him was great!!

If your looking for refinement then you it will take up some of your budget. You don't need a ton of HP to have fun and enjoy the 'sports car' experience of the Z. You want to drive it all the time, then make it comfortable. Quality seats, don't go solid on any suspension stuff(solid diff mount), sporty suspension bits, but none race caliper stuff. A little sound deading but a sweet sounding exhaust. Fun gearing with a LSD and 200hp and you will smile-turbo is good too. Engine swaps(other then L6) amp up the frustration factor and eat up time till you start driving.

Put up a picture of that flywheel when you can.

Well I will do it like recommended by MS and go from there.

Ben, not sure what you mean as far as digital copies of my wiring. I am going straight off the pages of MS3 manual schematics. As far as a trigger wheel-not tested , but should work in theroy-see pic. I am going to use a hall effect sensor for a direct Flywheel trigger

Maybe, but I have read plenty other threads where the fit was tight. Again, just run the suspension threw its travel before total assembling.

3800 at 70mph is a big factor. I run 3.90's with the t-5 overdrive and run about 3000 at 70

If the urethane was shredded on the hub side, you have an issue. Fix your issue first, then when you reinstall, check for proper movement of the outboard LCA bushings

I guess I am not recieving messages because i have 200 too many I tried deleting, but it says there is an authorization issue. moderators please delete my PM's