madkaw

I run 17x8.5 +4 offset . Not sure the offsets are a clear indicator of dish size . I’m going to run 235/45/17’s . I think it’s more about wheel design

SOLD

That’s not right . You are doing the right tests. Nissan clearances should be tight . I’d take it somewhere else . Most guides come sized that the intake will be .0015 and the exhaust will be .00025 . They might tighten up during install . I just went through this . The machine shop honed out the guides to .002 - so they said . It’s a bit tricky to measure guides . I doubt after install the guides needed anything after install . Nissan says the clearance is .0008- .0015 for the intake .

When I finally got the head on a work bench and measured the intake ports I realized that I left these smaller than other heads . It was necked down to 32mm in most ports . So I opened them up to 35mm - which is the absolute limit based on a head I cut up . I do have Bonks- stage 2 cam on hand which is probably better suited for my intake - but I might try both . I think the Bonk -1 cam would give better numbers based on increasing my port size . I know bigger is not always better - but compared to all out porting on the N42 , my porting is conservative at 35mm. The intake has been welded on once again . Flange is in the right spot and I decided to weld steps on the flange to eliminate the step washers . Of course after all this welding I was skeptical this flange was flat anymore . I took to my friend/machinist/ welder/ CFD modeler/ and put it on his surface plate . It was bad . Because of its odd shape he couldn’t use his milk and had to hand scrap it flat . Andy is true expert at this . It took it little bit of time but he got it flat . It’s almost an art form . I also had him flatten out my flanges in my exhaust . I couldn’t get it to seal right and my attempts were sad - lol.

Very cool. Super impressed with your fab skills and like your art/function approach . Looks like a header that Kameari would make. Need a NA version !!

Can you tell me or did you do a CFD work with your plenum using on a NA engine? Does this style plenum only work well for turbo engines ?

What about your turbo plenum ! That’s what I want to see !!

Why the title NA vs Turbo? Also glad you are back . Anxious to see more work done on your turbo plenum . Most of your pics are gone off the site so looking forward to seeing some of those again .

Back on the grid !! Welcome !

Sounds good brother . I still remember your videos on the back roads breaking the back tire loose . Helped to motivate me ! Good luck and I wishing you the best

Maybe chickenman #richard Boyk will read this and help you out . Might try Facebook on the church of L page . Many people there can help too . I run NA so not sure that would be a good tune for you . Hopefully Chris will respond also . So it starts and idle but what’s the issue with driving ?

They are all the same height . 108.1 is the dimension I believe

Looking for this trans . Just a core will do or even just the bell housing . sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

The ones that I got with Vintage rubber( aftermarket) fit like ass . I had to make cuts to allow the seal to sit correctly in the hole . So I will have to use some seam sealer to supplement the sealing of the seal . I’ll take a pic .

I believe the RTV was meant to applied at the same time as you install the seal so it dries around the seal . It’s not a factory pump . A factory pump should have a cast impeller that is much more efficient moving the water .

You’ll have to pull that rear main and get all that RTV off of there . Nissan makes all in one seals that don’t require the metal strips . Read carefully how to put the metal strips in if that’s what you are using . I’d ditch that water pump . Get one with a cast impeller .

I even sent a pic to Dave and he said to not worry about it

Can you catch the scratches with a fingernail? I just pulled the head on my Rebello build and have the same markings . Wish I took a pic - but it’s all taped closed now . Dave allows a lot of room for the pistons to grow - like .006 difference . I have thousands of miles on this engine and have had the head of twice . Very early in the engines life it looked the same as now . I always let the engine warm up but I run it hard - A LOT

Well I am taking this opportunity to fix my intake flange position for the TB . I had the angle wrong and it made running the piping difficult . Also going to weld build the runner flanges to get rid of the step washers required with the Cannon intake . Doing all this why going with a bigger cam . While the head is out I am going to open up the ports at the neck . Currently intake runners are tapered to 37mm at the head . The head ports taper down to barely 32mm . This is one of the first MN heads I ported . You can’t hog these like some of the other L heads . I have learned after slicing up a head that I can get closer to 35mm at the smallest ID at the neck . I guess I am pleased I did 230 hp with the port pinched this much . I’ve been able to get 34.5mm just before the bowl in some of the other heads I’ve done . One person I sold a head to got 220 hp with a 2.9 running the head I built for him . This is at the tires ! Im also going to smooth out the ports a bit . I opened up the ports at the head opening to 37 - while the head was on the engine . Needless to say not optimum - but I was careful not to get shit in the motor . With it on the bench I can do a better job . Also going to CC the head and possibly do some work in the chamber . I’d like to bump up the CR to 11:1 for the next - more aggressive cam . It will be 565 lift and I believe 290 duration. I never had any detonation issues with the current set up . Once I crack the engine open I will see how the pistons look . I think with the closed chambers and 93 octane I can get away wit more CR . I can always drop some timing if needed or retard the cam timing a bit if it’s too much . Lots to do before driving season !

I might have an extra set from a roof part out. I’ll see if I can get them off

I thought mine came with instructions that stated the increments . I thought it was 2 degrees which kind of makes sense because the total amount of change available is the same as the stock sprocket

Valve seats replaced ? I’d recommend to at least going to 35mm exhaust valves - it’s kind of necessary for a performance . If the seats need to be replaced might as well go the bigger size . OEM exhaust valves are good and can be had cheap

I would wire it whatever way the tach will still work . I would highly recommend a 123 ignition set up for that engine . Though I know it’s $$ and the Rebello already hits the purse hard

SOLD Ready to go . Had this set up on my stroker and managed 226 rwhp ! Notice- 14mm fuel rail - but the injectors do seal on the stock intake . Bracket in pic is used as a stand-off for cable linkage . I used a 3ft Lockar Minor port work to match TB and blend openings at runners 500$ obo

No relay for the fuel pump?