madkaw

You might actually get away without having to repair that with the big head bolt right there

There is no best on HybridZ . And Dave has told me that it doesn’t matter much as long as you do better than the stock . He’s had good numbers with the Pace Setter header and that’s one of the cheapest you can buy. I’d say it’s slim pickings right now . I made 230 rwhp with my MSA 6-2 header

Z Car Depot sells the strips that you can attach to your cards

What is considered “ standard bodies”?

Pretty good day for me . Got to help a buddy get his motor going and we went for a spin to dial some thing in with his Megasquirt . It was kind of chilly . Same day I’m there with him and I get a call that my intake is done . Can’t wait to let my engine breathe . New intake and exhaust header !!!!!

There’s a guy running a MN47 without liners with good success (200+ HP L28) I’ve showed my MN without liners to a couple of machinist and they thought the flow wouldn’t be that affected . It does leave a big gap under the seat which I would like to fill , but that would be almost impossible due to location. The rest of the port can be smoothed out . It does leave a massive port at almost 38mm at the port exit from the head . I think the MN 47 is best left NA mostly because of its small chamber

I think the liner issue for a turbo is fairly isolated. I have noted that there is a difference in casting quality from early liner heads and later ones. Look at a early n47 compared to a MN 47 or p79 . I have personally removed the liners from a MN47 and I see no way they would come out unless they disintegrated . They are extremely hard to remove . The later years have better casting supports for the liners to sit on and much better casting in general.

You haven’t mentioned engine management . Maybe you could run 9:1 with mild boost if you had a way to manage it . Engine management is what you should do first

I’m using them temporarily before I install rivnuts . It’s just easier to take apart with the sheet metal screws . I might keep some in areas I’m not putting my hands .

I opened up the hole . I like the fact that the upper radiator will get air this way for sure . I tried to make a smooth transition top and bottom . I’ll close up any crevices when final version is done . Still plan on running the grill right on top of this . I want this to blend in

The exit strategy will be the most challenging to implement - especially if you don’t want to alter the looks of your car . No ready to put a vent in the middle of my hood . I might consider vented access doors , but really not a fan of that look either . I think I might increase entry size by having a second inlet above the bumper. This would give a more direct shot of air to the top of the radiator .

I would start swapping what you can . Injector connectors , injectors , coils .

Yes- what kind of COPs? I run 42lb injectors in my 3.2

That’s a tough one . Running a 3.2 and the n42 intake now . Did you do anything with the head when you had it apart ?

After reading up on intakes and airflow I might eventually need to narrow the angle on the top to keep the air flow from getting too turbulent . I guess the bigger issue is the post flow . It would be nice to come up with a slick exit strategy that doesn’t blow the hood up

Getting further along . Today I cut another hole - for the inlet . It seems small- maybe too small. I meant to make it 4” tall and it’s more like 3.25” . I also think where the fascia has landed I might actually be able to fasten the grill on top of it to keep it stick looking . I planned on blacking out the fascia to make it disappear in the background , but hard to say what it will look like once done . All I know is that no air is getting anywhere I don’t want - lol

Made a hole today. Need to decide where to put the big hole out front

Don’t want to alter the look of my car with a fiberglass hood , though a carbon fiber would be so much lighter . Ive been searching around for strut conversions . Don’t want to have to weld in mounts for the strut .

I think I’m not going to run the torsion bars on the hinges. Not only is it a PITA to around for, but they are weak to hold the hood up , and I cannot align my properly when they are installed- it aligns perfect with them off. The hood is a little heavy , but I’ll lift more weights . Next is the hole for the CIA pipe . Probably will mess this up at least once .

Transformed cardboard to aluminum! I’m pretty happy the way this is coming out overall . I think it will accomplish my goal to control the air in front of the car . Found some good seals on McMaster -car to help seal to the hood . Next fun task to integrate the torsion bars and CAI . I’ve been using these metal screws to hold things together and a lot of them will stay except the front panel which I will rivet before paint. Been tossing around where to put the inlet . Might go under the bumper with a 4”x 20” opening . like to hear some ideas I know my neck will be glad when I finish this project .

Someone update my status so I can post in classifieds please!

So are you saying the piston height is different from front to back? Can you rock the piston in the hole ? Stock spec piston height should be above deck .

Thank you - it does matter if I want to sound like I know what I am talking about - lol

I ran the clutch 3.90 before , but going torsion this time. I just bought a used ‘18 myself

Thanks Derek . Sounds like Subaru has been consistent .