madkaw

You are so wrong - lol Like you say - most power is made below 7 and the stock block is just fine with that . My cam has hp peak at 6k and peak torque at 4300 . Throw a MN head on there and be able to run 11:1 on pump gas and bingo - a fun fast car . I do want to cam mine for 8k though . It’s built to take that and after driving a M3 I want that rpm - if I don’t loose the bottom end . Options are plenty !!!

Fun driver is subjective for sure . I also say that the OP might be happy with a well build 2.8 . We know it’s all about the head . Spend 3000$ on a good head, accessories and get 200hp + which will make a fast z and also be user friendly around town . One could make the head the building block . These bottom ends are pretty bullet proof stock .

Depends on known condition . I paid 350$ for a clean MN47 . I might be interested in one of them . Whatever is cheaper which I assume is the 90a . where are you located ? Shipping can be $$

I would question that builder if he is confident he can get 300 -350 NA rwhp and still be streetable . MAYBE crank hp . One would have to run 13:1 and a huge cam. I have 226 rwhp and can do a 1/4 in 13.1 and 0-60 4.5 approx . My point is that bigger hp numbers sound good but it doesn’t take much with a 2500lb car. Good luck

Has the OP ever driven any modified Z? It's a hoot with 230 NA rwhp. I would say it's pretty reliable since that's not crazy numbers. You are almost close enough to come up and take a spin in a stroker. Anything over 200 would be fun. Can't compete with todays fast cars , but it will be a fast sports car. I think I sold my L24 for a dude in your area that had a 73 And I think the NA numbers you were quoted are unrealistic

Had some fun with my Speedhut GPS speedo . It will 1/4 mile times . Tried it for the first time a pulled a 13.08 . Using that time and my approx weight it calculates out my HP to a very close match of my dyno run . Proving that the speedo can help me verify improvements . Now to work on those improvements ‘

Isn’t that a ceramic coated header? They do a great job to control heat . I don’t run a heat shield with my N42 .

So many questions 😁 Easy install with no issues . I’ve had long enough to know they will take a thrashing with 230hp . R-180 . Don’t have brake cables , but they are no bigger then halfshafts .

They are works of art . Very stout . I can’t see how you would break them . I run a modest 230 rwhp , but I thrash my car a lot . They aren’t the weak link . It would be more likely my wheel axles

Why not ? Wouldn’t at least be a base line ? I know its a bit of a PITA to coordinate and cost $ , but inquiring minds want to know

So what was the outcome here . I noticed my 3.90 CLSD ( Subaru’s ) has significant play at the axles . I’m talking up and down movement of the axle at the diff . I know the STI’s don’t mount their diffs the same as ours . They are rubber mounted I believe.

@Chicken man

I SPY ! My neighbor wonders why I’m always working on mine .

That sucks you had to clearance stuff . Those are second generation CV ‘s from Futofab ? I had first generation axles that had 5 degrees of slop Glad I spent the money and went with ZCG axles

Yeah - I was referring to the idler

I think you underestimating the BLING factor. It comes in different colors Most of us won't drive our cars enough to test the limits of everyday driving on this tensioner . It was worth to me just to make dialing in the cam easy and or turning over the motor . Really came in handy with a P90 shaved .080

I think the cool factor outweighs any reasonable longevity argument -LOL. It sure does make the process of getting our cam dialed in much easier . You can literally go either direction with the chain instead of just one direction. Time will tell about adverse wear issues . Love the instructions that came with the tensioner - "please ignore bearing noise-this is normal" My exhaust is pretty loud so Imagine if the exhaust was quieter , the tensioner would be more obnoxious . As stated before -don't over tighten. Just use your fingers to press the gears together.

More visceral -ness 244D1B3D-3B46-4164-A673-F38A21FAEDB5.MOV

A bit - but the urethane mount can be shaped as you need . I have it as part of my diff sandwich by using the stock mount below and GM above

Wait until you hear that chain tensioner :-0

If you had a GM mount hanging the diff you could shim it - down

Wow - just found this thread . I thought I wasn’t the only one . Same exact issues of SS set from Classic Tube not sealing. I found out about these flares thru another web site . So far they have worked for me . Like you said - tricky to keep in place. I was worried about them moving and actually blocking the passage . Those lines will destroy anything they don’t mate up too. Owner bought the lines for me to install on a resto. I wouldn’t have gone SS , but that’s what I got to work with . Never again

I might have an extra

You need to chill out on your timing . It’s hard to see the pic , but you have a ton of timing at 100kpa. I run NA - so can’t help you above 100. You are bringing on way too much timing too early . I wouldn’t be above 33 degrees at 100kpa anywhere on the scale for now . I don’t bring in full timing(36) until around 3000-3500 rpm . ESPECIALLY with a turbo build I would get more conservative . As said above - verify timing with a light . Verify timing marks on pulley . Your VE tables look wonky too. You are pulling fuel way early - before you make full torque . Id suggest finding a tune from someone’s else car