madkaw

So what was the outcome here . I noticed my 3.90 CLSD ( Subaru’s ) has significant play at the axles . I’m talking up and down movement of the axle at the diff . I know the STI’s don’t mount their diffs the same as ours . They are rubber mounted I believe.

@Chicken man

I SPY ! My neighbor wonders why I’m always working on mine .

That sucks you had to clearance stuff . Those are second generation CV ‘s from Futofab ? I had first generation axles that had 5 degrees of slop Glad I spent the money and went with ZCG axles

Yeah - I was referring to the idler

I think you underestimating the BLING factor. It comes in different colors Most of us won't drive our cars enough to test the limits of everyday driving on this tensioner . It was worth to me just to make dialing in the cam easy and or turning over the motor . Really came in handy with a P90 shaved .080

I think the cool factor outweighs any reasonable longevity argument -LOL. It sure does make the process of getting our cam dialed in much easier . You can literally go either direction with the chain instead of just one direction. Time will tell about adverse wear issues . Love the instructions that came with the tensioner - "please ignore bearing noise-this is normal" My exhaust is pretty loud so Imagine if the exhaust was quieter , the tensioner would be more obnoxious . As stated before -don't over tighten. Just use your fingers to press the gears together.

More visceral -ness 244D1B3D-3B46-4164-A673-F38A21FAEDB5.MOV

A bit - but the urethane mount can be shaped as you need . I have it as part of my diff sandwich by using the stock mount below and GM above

Wait until you hear that chain tensioner :-0

If you had a GM mount hanging the diff you could shim it - down

Wow - just found this thread . I thought I wasn’t the only one . Same exact issues of SS set from Classic Tube not sealing. I found out about these flares thru another web site . So far they have worked for me . Like you said - tricky to keep in place. I was worried about them moving and actually blocking the passage . Those lines will destroy anything they don’t mate up too. Owner bought the lines for me to install on a resto. I wouldn’t have gone SS , but that’s what I got to work with . Never again

I might have an extra

You need to chill out on your timing . It’s hard to see the pic , but you have a ton of timing at 100kpa. I run NA - so can’t help you above 100. You are bringing on way too much timing too early . I wouldn’t be above 33 degrees at 100kpa anywhere on the scale for now . I don’t bring in full timing(36) until around 3000-3500 rpm . ESPECIALLY with a turbo build I would get more conservative . As said above - verify timing with a light . Verify timing marks on pulley . Your VE tables look wonky too. You are pulling fuel way early - before you make full torque . Id suggest finding a tune from someone’s else car

Did you ever find any ?

I have the same numbers on my 3.2 NA!

They are available in many places

I would buy any reputable wideband . Spartan makes good ones cheap .

It’s the only way to tune ! Besides reading plugs and butt dyno - lol

Never asked if my paint shop can mix “engine” paint . I personally have done Chrysler blue from Por-15 and really like the stuff .

He does check in occasionally. I think he just PM’d me eventually

The wide band is off - lol

Rich ? 100kpa 37 degrees

That’s my biggest issue . I had a question regarding their parking brake cable. I emailed them . One week later I got a response . It would have taken 10 seconds on the phone . I ordered the part anyways because I had given up on getting an answer . Fortunately the product was what the pic showed and the answer matched the product . If not , then I would have had to return it, and probably lost shipping money on part of the transaction . They could do a better job with descriptions if they don’t want to answer questions . IMHO I will say I’ve had more issues with MSA and they have been in business a lot longer if that says anything