madkaw

That's why I have the other thread started- Carbs are a PITA!

I had planned on getting things as close to the valve as possible just for the reason of idle and tuning. I think I can work around the bolt issues. In fact when I looked at the manifold and the angle of the injector and bung, I didn't think it would be an issue at all-especially if I run studs like on my mikuni's now. I was more worried about how I was going to secure my fuel rail on this Cannon manifold. I also noted that some injectors spray at an angle-as much as 25 degrees-which I might to be able to use to my advantage.

Tony, I believe you have seen the 'exception' to everything on these engines! LOL

Sam, I have much to learn, but I'm not sure what you mean by impinging fuel on the bungs. I was considering placing the bungs at about a 45 degree angle centered between where the runner meets the flange. I would be shooting to have the fuel spray come out in the middle of the head port(whatever that angle might be). The bungs supplied with the intake are a bit long, but I thought that was due to make them adaptable to whatever set-up.

So I am ready to get serious about this intake. It's been a nice shelf ornament but I am ordering my MS2 and ready to proceed on with FI. With Tony's comments it sounds like 14mm bungs are the way to go-I can always go smaller I guess. I haven't decided high or low impedance yet, but that shouldn't affect the build aspect. I will be getting a Pallnet fuel rail Assuming that if the injectors are mounted right up against the runner flange, that a rail made for a stock intake will work fine. I have also decided to finish out the design that's been started. I am getting some aluminum pipe and going to 'cap" what I have now. What I need to decide is the "angle of entry" for the TB. I think whatever that angle is will determine what pipe I order since I will use the mandrel bend to help blend the TB into the plenum. I am thinking 75mm TB for now. I will initially running this on a NA motor, so I am trying to make this set-up versatile for both-turbo later! I don't see where 75mm will too big, and I can always reduce to 60mm with an adapter. I'm not sure what TB I will go with, but searching to steal one of a production car. I'd like to find an intake that I can steal the TB and be able to maybe cut off the thick flange that the TB mounts too(just to save from fabbing). Any comments or suggestions are welcome

Tuning nightmares!!!!!!!!!!!!! So I am chasing a dead spot that happens during moderate tip-in around 3000+ range. The Mikuni manual suggests small float adjustments to fix transition issues.To my advantage I have the newer Mikuni's that have adjustable float option on the outside of the carb. I have had new needle valves in my possession, but haven't installed them yet. So I thought I would change them out and at the same time verify that the adjusters for the floats actually work. I am impressed how accurate the adjusters are. Each half a turn on the adjuster moves the fulcrum on the float to make a total adjustment of 1mm. I reassembled everything and drove around for a while pushing the transition areas and no luck, so I slam the throttle wide open, where I know it still runs there, and it sounds like sh%t and no power. What the hell happened now? So I start checking everything out from ignition to vacuum leaks. The only thing I really changed was the float needle assemblies. So I pull the covers off again and compare old assemblies with new. The needle assemblies I have are 1.8's and I had 1.5's , so more fuel right? Make a call to Todd at Wolfcreek and he says "yep", no longer carry the 1.5's-should work fine. I recheck the float adjustments and put it back together at 13mm height. Still dead at high rpm WOT Well maybe I need to back off my mains to compensate, but I doubt it. I pull the jet assemblies and lay them out on the bench and start swapping out main jets--WAIT-I'm one short. The main jet fell off or I didn't install it??? Man I don't want to pull all the covers off again to look. So I install the next size down and drive around and things are seeming good again. So this missing jet was throwing me way off, but now I can start fine tuning again. Third time out with a pilot change and WHAMMO, it's doing the same thing. So I immediately go for the main jets and found that my carb ATE another jet. WTF!!! So now I have two main jets laying in my float bowls(I assume that's where they are). So maybe the first time I screwed up and forgot to tighten down the jet properly. I usually pull all of the assemblies out of the carbs at once and do an assembly line change. Maybe I got in a hurry the first time. The second time, I'm not sure. Maybe I am not tightening these jets down hard enough. I know brass relies on the newer threads to cut and hold, so maybe the many changes I have made have worn the threads down enough that they don't hold as well. Not sure if there a solution other than new jets? I gave up for the day at least knowing there nothing major wrong with the car. These kind of days make you pull your hair out.

Your not turning the oil pump- you are turning the SHAFT that connects the pump to the dizzy. You have to pull the oil pump and drop the shaft away from GEAR it is engaged to on the crank. You CAN NOT turn the shaft while in the timing cover . In your FSM shows there's marks to line the shaft up in the pump BEFORE you shove it up in the timing cover that should get you close. Of course this is all done with 1 cylinder TDC. VERIFY position on shaft for the dizzy by looking at the FSM picture of the tang line-up in the timing cover- 11.25 o clock.

Alright, Ill fess up, I'm a dumb ass and forgot to reinstall my rotor. The problem still exists that started this in the first place, Engine has no power in the higher rpms. Every other facet of running is normal. great idle, great cruise, but WOT at higher rpm is sad. It almost sounds like I'm running out of gas, but pressure is good and all filters were changed. The pump is pretty new(running RX-7 pump), but haven't tested it for volume.

got one guys-thanks

I think my ignition module went bad, car has no spark beyond the coil. The engine was breaking up at higher rpms earlier and had no power. Now it's dead Anyway, swapped out with an extra module I had, that I was not sure of it's condition, and nothing, so I ordered a new module. My question is for the green and red leads that come from the dizzy that connect to the module. I couldn't see that there was any certain way or specific hole they went in. is it possible to get them crossed, and if so, which wire goes where?

I need a valve cover. It doesn't need to be pretty- I will be cutting it up anyway. Needs to have a good gasket surface. So send me prices of your unwanted nasty valve cover to be shipped to 47401. S_finnerty1018@comcast.net

Just started watching your thread- very nice. I would go for a BW 5 speed myself. There might be closer ratios, but the choice of shifters is fantastic. You will love that trans with a pro-shifter-very tight and positive . Of course the driveshaft is different, but you could have one made. Also looking forward to your megasquirt endeavour since I am doing the same thing. Researching my MS purchase presently. Project looks good

Yep- there gone. The problem I had is the tire catches the convex rear quarter. I clear the lip, but rub up inside the well. At least you can raise your ride with the coil overs- I'm stock. I've also slotted and modified my hats with so so results. The ZG's from Shoukia are worth the wait. I don't think it took that long to get mine. More like 2 to 3 weeks.

I'm running 245/45/17's all around with 8.5" rims +4 offset. Fronts clear everything- only rears rub. If I could get 2.5 camber- the rears might clear

endorsement :0

Been snooping around for those elusive 2000GT engine pics--drool Pics aren't helping much as far as deciphering what they did on that car for EVAP. I imagine the filter is in that airbox inclosure-sealed!

Booster venturies? I been looking on line and at Wolfcreek racing at their diagrams and parts and couldn't find them. I imagine this is what i saw depicted as 'smaller venturi"? So main -airs are not a logical solution? As as evap, I might be screwed with my CAI. It seems the only way to make an EVAP system work is to first have a closed element and I believe mine is considered open. So the fuel vapors will just vent right out the front through the filter unless I had some kind of flapper to close off the box. So I'm not sure what technically makes the difference between and open or closed element system. I look at old V-8 metal enclosed air cleaner vs. open element filter and I think there's not much difference. The old style metal enclosed filter still has a big opening for air to come in, or let fumes out! I can hook up my valve cover vent back up to my box easy enough. My tank vent system is still present and accounted for except the small hose going to the previous airbox is hooked to nothing.

Well it's been a few days since I have posted on this thread. I am still pursuing the perfect tune on these Mikuni's, and still having fun while I'm at it! Currently running 70's in the pilots 150 main fuel 180 main air 40 acc pumps Not a lot of difference, but I think I have reached the max pilot jet for my motor. Still- I have a lean spot during moderate acceleration. Now that my wideband works well, I can watch the lean spot come on as my rpms get into that magic zone of 2500-3200. At this point I think maybe I have been barking up the wrong tree here. I have neglected to consider the possibility that I might need to drop down my main air some more. It seems obvious that my cam demands a lot of fuel down low just by pilot size alone, so why wouldn't I consider bringing in the main sooner to help with the dry spot? I haven't tried this because I don't have anything smaller than 180 main-airs, and I just ASSUMED that 180's should be low enough for my engine. Honestly, this little l24 has been really suprising with it's low end torque. What else that has been a pleasant suprise is how well the Schneider cam and Mikuni's have made a very civil and well tempered driving machine. Putzing around in my neighborhood in 4th gear at 25mph at 1200+ rpm and it it hardly chugs. Wide open and it's pure delight. I want a BIGGER cam though;0 The only other aspect of the Mikuni's that could use some help is the fuel smell(mostly in the garage). I'm pretty much positive it is all about the fuel bowls venting out the CAI. I have been reading about the possibility of doing a charcoal canister, but I need to do some more research. For now, I have my electric pump on a hidden kill switch and I shut the pump off a few blocks from the house. I literally run out of gas pulling into my garage---no fuel smell.

Just got mine the other day and my wife actually thought of it- even though she really doesn't give a damn about the car- lol MY TOYZ

I have received some nice compliments on this idea- thanks. I thought I would revive the thread for those of you that missed it. So far the "box" has worked out well. Need to get to the dyno and see how well it breathes . I'm skeptical over my 16$ airfilter;)

I have received some nice compliments on this idea- thanks. I thought I would revive the thread for those of you that missed it. So far the "box" has worked out well. Need to get to the dyno and see how well it breathes . I'm skeptical over my 16$ airfilter;)

WOW, pictured next to PMC-sweet and thanks

Well guys, still fighting oil leaks and high oil pressure. Since this posting I have replaced rear main seal again, but first installed a speedi sleeve incase of any nicks on the crank. I have also redid the oil pan and side seals. I really took my time with the side seals considering this might be my issue. I wasn't able to pull the bearing cap out, but I feel competant that I got the seal channels really clean for the new seals. I also mounted the mechanical guage in the car, and the oil pressure rides 70psi most of the time. 2500 rpm cruise and I'm running 70psi. I am running a stock oil pump. So from the above postings, you guys are saying that no amount of oil pressure should cause a rear main leak? Something I am curious about, but might or might have anything to do with the higher pressure. I'm running the early e-88 head that was meant for a spray bar system.I have the block off plates on the cam towers. I am running an eternally oiled cam. Are the oil passages all the same on the cam towers as far as size? I know most guys stick with the spray bars for their regrinds. Might be grasping here, but since there a difference between the oiling holes for the spray bar(small .049 approx.) vs. internally oiled holes in the lobes are bigger(.078)--would there be a difference in the tower oil passages. Again, I know I'm grasping here, but want to cover everything.

Resized my picture to a friendlier size