madkaw

I used a hose clamp as a guide for marking my pipe for a cut. And like John I cut the pipe a bit long so I could clean up the edge and perfect the angle with my 12" circular table sander. The sander was the best investment and I bought a cheap HF version. At 75lbs it is very stable and hasnt given me any issues. The mock up for my duals was done with PVC pipe from Lowes. It gave me an idea of how things would fit

Like said above, a well tuned set of SU's will make for a good running car.

Have you watched the BBC Top Gear covering these cars-it's funny! Jeremy drifts the BRZ while reading a book-it's that easy.

Oh yeah-im interested. Like i said before, you are tapping a small market here, those will sell everywhere!

Let's face it- most of the Z guys are cheap bastards- please don't let me offend anyone, but it seems true. I am always reading of complaints of cost for aftermarket items or used items. Maybe because the perception - even from Z enthusiast - that this is an economy grade classic, so why should I have to pay lots of money for one - regardless of the investment in the car. I am amazed that when selling oem parts- used- no matter how unique or rare- people don't want to spend more than junk rate. Never taking into consideration that a part will be delivered to their door saving time and fuel and frustration of having to find te part. Maybe the Z community is it's own worst enemy. Then there's the stigma of imports. When is the last time you saw a car show advertised and there was no category for imports? The funny thing is that everyone that sees my car thinks it is a more expensive classic - like a Porsche or other. My 2 cents

Man I wanted raised letter tires for my car and couldn't find any in my size-great look!

Why would you want to change a thing-that car is beautiful. Damn, I want the gold Rotas too-LOL Again, that's one of my favorite Z's I've ever seen.

I have 2 out of the three. I will PM you later

The instructions I had were very specific about grounds- like not sharing a ground. Sounds good!

Run the deadhead but try to eliminate the fuel rail that rides right along the hot valve cover. I routed my fuel line along the firewall then straight to the carbs

Okay, I have read( which means nothing) that the plenum should be 50%-70% of engine displacement.

Just curious of what the measured volume of your plenum is-it seems big! very nice work

In the interest of research, PM me and I will send you pilot jets. I have a slew of them and be willing to let you borrow some to get dialed in. I'm up to 70's now, so I have all the smaller one available. I have 40's(mikunis), but I believe jets are the same. Tony knows way more than I, and I have used his advice. My car runs good, but still do suffer a slight studder or hesitation during moderate tip-ins below 3500. I show leaness on the gauge, but I haven't tuned long enough or know enough to attribute it to pilots or pumps. I have very little to complain about, my Mikuni's run better than I ever expected and the car is a great DD.

'noticed a hesitation that seemed like it was consistently in the transition from pilots to accel pumps'---If you have had the carbs off the car and activated the throttle you would see that there is no transition between pilot and accelerator pump. The slightest throttle input pumps fuel out-the pumps are very sensitive. What setting is the pumps on?-What hole? Don't be afraid to turn out those pilots some more. You still have adjustment that will be noticable. I've ran them 2.5 turns out before I ran out of adjustment. Crack them a .25 turn and drive around again. Get your idle AFR close to 12 Where is the power band for that cam? You might need to be around 4k+ hard tip ins to judge jetting. Which may also tie into what you are saying about main air jet selection. Todd at Wolfcreek might be a productive phone call once you have the motor broke in and have tried everything you know.

Very pretty work!

It's a shame you don't have a z fanatic close by thats looking to make a few bucks working on a z. That's my MAD money right now. I know I'm not making much on the hourly rate, but can't think of a better way to make some cash for my car. I'm lucky to get 7-10 hours a week on the car, but it enough if I plan well. Like said above, if all else, let it sit until you get that education .

The problem with those AFR gauges is that you wind up fixated on them all the time. When I had too big of pumps and mains in there the engine sounded like it was drowning under WOT accel. It stumbled a bit-but not from fuel startvation. Reading your build again--- a lot of nice work by the way----your cam is pretty damn big, which will probably make tuning harder. Your AFR's might always look rich around transition with that motor, but is it blowing black smoke, what does your plugs look like. Wait till you get that motor broke in and you can drive it HARD, then see where your at. For now itt sounds like you have cruise mode set-up fairly close.

Good thread http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106649-triple-mikuni-help/?hl=triple mikuni help

Doesn't sound like you are far off. My measly 2.4 runs about the same AFR's at steady cruise and leans a bit just like yours during slight elevations(slight loading). My car seems to like this pilot arrangement for cruise and you'll probably see some decent MPG running those AFR's. I'd leave the pilots alone-this isn't giving you rich AFR's-that's for sure. Your dealing with a fresh engine that you can't hammer on -which makes it tough to dial things in. Also, cam and acc pumps has a lot to do with this. 45's shoot a ton of fuel in there, you might consider smaller like 40's. Haven't read your whole build, but a large cam won't want to burn all that fuel down at the lower rpms.

I suggested hard tip ins above 3500 to be above the pilot circuit, so you can read AFRS on the main circuit. What main air jets are you running? Too small of main airs might be bringing the mains in too early.

170's are big. What accelerator pumps are you running? What's your ignition timing set at? It will be hard to dial in those carbs doing hard tip-ins at lower rpms. Dial in your mains above 3500rpm - don't do a hard WOT until you are above 3500. Hard tip-ins on my motor at low rpms show rich AFR's also, but above 3500 they are perfect.

Looks like my MSA ceramic coated header I bought years ago. Unequal length pipes into twin 50mm outlets--which i continued on all the way out back. Sound is better than I could have imagined. Don't care about weight or HP loss---if any---it makes the driving experience the total package.

Great to see some more videos from you Phil. We need to hear and see some video looking from the outside, or by a chase car-if they could keep up. Looks like a total handful!!

Might want to look at this thread I started over at Classic. I had many phone conversations with Todd at Wolfcreek in the process of working on my 40's. He was very specific about float settings-down to the mm. Todd is very knowledgable, but doesn't like his time wasted. So if you plan on calling-better have a game plan and know your Mikuni parts. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetor-systems-s30/45836-triple-mikuni-thread.html

I remember reading your other thread. I think you need to nail down your fuel pump/regulator issue first. As I have read many times on this site, the Mikuni's are very sensitive to fuel pressure.