madkaw

Alright, Ill fess up, I'm a dumb ass and forgot to reinstall my rotor. The problem still exists that started this in the first place, Engine has no power in the higher rpms. Every other facet of running is normal. great idle, great cruise, but WOT at higher rpm is sad. It almost sounds like I'm running out of gas, but pressure is good and all filters were changed. The pump is pretty new(running RX-7 pump), but haven't tested it for volume.

got one guys-thanks

I think my ignition module went bad, car has no spark beyond the coil. The engine was breaking up at higher rpms earlier and had no power. Now it's dead Anyway, swapped out with an extra module I had, that I was not sure of it's condition, and nothing, so I ordered a new module. My question is for the green and red leads that come from the dizzy that connect to the module. I couldn't see that there was any certain way or specific hole they went in. is it possible to get them crossed, and if so, which wire goes where?

I need a valve cover. It doesn't need to be pretty- I will be cutting it up anyway. Needs to have a good gasket surface. So send me prices of your unwanted nasty valve cover to be shipped to 47401. S_finnerty1018@comcast.net

Just started watching your thread- very nice. I would go for a BW 5 speed myself. There might be closer ratios, but the choice of shifters is fantastic. You will love that trans with a pro-shifter-very tight and positive . Of course the driveshaft is different, but you could have one made. Also looking forward to your megasquirt endeavour since I am doing the same thing. Researching my MS purchase presently. Project looks good

Yep- there gone. The problem I had is the tire catches the convex rear quarter. I clear the lip, but rub up inside the well. At least you can raise your ride with the coil overs- I'm stock. I've also slotted and modified my hats with so so results. The ZG's from Shoukia are worth the wait. I don't think it took that long to get mine. More like 2 to 3 weeks.

I'm running 245/45/17's all around with 8.5" rims +4 offset. Fronts clear everything- only rears rub. If I could get 2.5 camber- the rears might clear

endorsement :0

Been snooping around for those elusive 2000GT engine pics--drool Pics aren't helping much as far as deciphering what they did on that car for EVAP. I imagine the filter is in that airbox inclosure-sealed!

Booster venturies? I been looking on line and at Wolfcreek racing at their diagrams and parts and couldn't find them. I imagine this is what i saw depicted as 'smaller venturi"? So main -airs are not a logical solution? As as evap, I might be screwed with my CAI. It seems the only way to make an EVAP system work is to first have a closed element and I believe mine is considered open. So the fuel vapors will just vent right out the front through the filter unless I had some kind of flapper to close off the box. So I'm not sure what technically makes the difference between and open or closed element system. I look at old V-8 metal enclosed air cleaner vs. open element filter and I think there's not much difference. The old style metal enclosed filter still has a big opening for air to come in, or let fumes out! I can hook up my valve cover vent back up to my box easy enough. My tank vent system is still present and accounted for except the small hose going to the previous airbox is hooked to nothing.

Well it's been a few days since I have posted on this thread. I am still pursuing the perfect tune on these Mikuni's, and still having fun while I'm at it! Currently running 70's in the pilots 150 main fuel 180 main air 40 acc pumps Not a lot of difference, but I think I have reached the max pilot jet for my motor. Still- I have a lean spot during moderate acceleration. Now that my wideband works well, I can watch the lean spot come on as my rpms get into that magic zone of 2500-3200. At this point I think maybe I have been barking up the wrong tree here. I have neglected to consider the possibility that I might need to drop down my main air some more. It seems obvious that my cam demands a lot of fuel down low just by pilot size alone, so why wouldn't I consider bringing in the main sooner to help with the dry spot? I haven't tried this because I don't have anything smaller than 180 main-airs, and I just ASSUMED that 180's should be low enough for my engine. Honestly, this little l24 has been really suprising with it's low end torque. What else that has been a pleasant suprise is how well the Schneider cam and Mikuni's have made a very civil and well tempered driving machine. Putzing around in my neighborhood in 4th gear at 25mph at 1200+ rpm and it it hardly chugs. Wide open and it's pure delight. I want a BIGGER cam though;0 The only other aspect of the Mikuni's that could use some help is the fuel smell(mostly in the garage). I'm pretty much positive it is all about the fuel bowls venting out the CAI. I have been reading about the possibility of doing a charcoal canister, but I need to do some more research. For now, I have my electric pump on a hidden kill switch and I shut the pump off a few blocks from the house. I literally run out of gas pulling into my garage---no fuel smell.

Just got mine the other day and my wife actually thought of it- even though she really doesn't give a damn about the car- lol MY TOYZ

I have received some nice compliments on this idea- thanks. I thought I would revive the thread for those of you that missed it. So far the "box" has worked out well. Need to get to the dyno and see how well it breathes . I'm skeptical over my 16$ airfilter;)

I have received some nice compliments on this idea- thanks. I thought I would revive the thread for those of you that missed it. So far the "box" has worked out well. Need to get to the dyno and see how well it breathes . I'm skeptical over my 16$ airfilter;)

WOW, pictured next to PMC-sweet and thanks

Well guys, still fighting oil leaks and high oil pressure. Since this posting I have replaced rear main seal again, but first installed a speedi sleeve incase of any nicks on the crank. I have also redid the oil pan and side seals. I really took my time with the side seals considering this might be my issue. I wasn't able to pull the bearing cap out, but I feel competant that I got the seal channels really clean for the new seals. I also mounted the mechanical guage in the car, and the oil pressure rides 70psi most of the time. 2500 rpm cruise and I'm running 70psi. I am running a stock oil pump. So from the above postings, you guys are saying that no amount of oil pressure should cause a rear main leak? Something I am curious about, but might or might have anything to do with the higher pressure. I'm running the early e-88 head that was meant for a spray bar system.I have the block off plates on the cam towers. I am running an eternally oiled cam. Are the oil passages all the same on the cam towers as far as size? I know most guys stick with the spray bars for their regrinds. Might be grasping here, but since there a difference between the oiling holes for the spray bar(small .049 approx.) vs. internally oiled holes in the lobes are bigger(.078)--would there be a difference in the tower oil passages. Again, I know I'm grasping here, but want to cover everything.

Resized my picture to a friendlier size

Might consider Megasquirt for a programmable ECU . You would get lot's of support here and most seem happy with support from DIY Tune.

Thanks for posting your numbers-sorry if my "where's the beef" comment seemed more than what it was. I was thinking of those old Wendy commercials-I think - where the old lady says that classic line-"where's the beef" Proper tune and proper engine management and you will surely increase those numbers. From what I have read over the years the stock ECU will not handle this engine. The timing numbers don't make sense to me either. Not sure how long you have been around this sight, but you will hear over and over that it's all about tuning. I went to a car show last year where this guy had a 'stroker' also. My L24 was just a few ponies short of his on the dyno-he was pissed. Good luck with your machine and enjoy the wealth of expertise here

Where's the beef?

17x8.5 rotas +4 offset. The fronts are way to close to spring perch- but clear. Rear wheels are fine but tire size should be no more than 225 to be safe. I run 245's all around and rears rub slightly

Tune - tune - tune

you remove the gear... You just want to drive the pump, nothing else.

Your prices seem unrealistic at best. The kind of machining your are talking about-boring over .120 has to be done right. I will be watching to see how this turns out. Aren't you the guy that was having problems getting your SU's to run right?

I am suprised this thread has gone as far as it has. We have seen many threads wanting the big HP# with the magic bullet. To the OP, you need to research for more hours than you can stand and then you will find many have proposed the same quest-with many failures. Has it been done-yes-but by the very few that have invested many hours and many $$$$ Even my goal of 200HP seems daunting. I have earned a great respect for the real TUNERS on this site that have achieved the bigger numbers. This is not a bolt on deal. Drive 150+ HP at the rear wheels and see how much fun that is and you might not be searching for so much more.