madkaw

So fast it will make you freak!

I've got it and responded to your email. It's actually pretty nice too!

I did grind a bit off the console shifter opening so the boot wouldn't push the my trans out of gear in third.

It should be a nice bump in performance from a stock L 26 e-88 head. Probably stock flat tops and CR would be a guess. You can google for the Datsun engine calculator and plug in some numbers for parts swapping. This will not tell you if the stock chambers have been altered. I would it would be close to 10:1 , but purely a guess. How's it run??

Regardless if they are self locking or not, the bushing isn't correct if it is turning the washer - which in turn will rotate the nut loose. The nuts are self locking though.

Took another day of examining things. The driver's side was really no better. What was happening on both sides was that after torquing the spindle nuts down, I would rotate the LCA back and forth and it would turn the washer -thus lossening the nut. That in turn would loosen or free up the movement around the spindle. On both sides the sleeve was turning and eventually wore a gouge into my strut/spindle housing-bad I have ordered a new LCA urethane kit for the rear. It is very apparent that I didn't know what I was doing on my first install. I just took for granted that you pulled out the old and installed the new and you were done. That would be true if I atleast checked to see if the bushings were rotating or operating as they should. I did file down the spindle housing ends to start with a clean surface. I measured out the spacing and it will still be a tight squeeze with new spindle bushings. I think I took off 1mm off the spindle(strut) housing to get the surface flat. I will replace my worn washer. I guess I will assemble and torque the spindle side of the LCA first to check things over during rotation to make sure the washer is not rotating with the LCA. Hopefully someone will learn from my mistakes. I believe all these misteps have led to premature squeaks in the bushings. I probably don't have 12k miles on this car since rebuild

Took the spindle out and look what I found. The mounting surface for the LCA had a high spot where the bushing rode and the surface is indented or gouged where the sleeve rides. The high spot tore up the urethane flange and I imagine the worn area where the sleeve rides has diminished some of the sleeve length and causing the bushings to be pinched--agree????

So I swapped around washers on the LCA's. Driver's side still moves around much easier even with the bad washer. The passenger side will not move when fully torqued. How hard should these LCA's pivot on the spindle? I can understand a little effort to move them, but this passenger side must be effecting my suspension travel -geometry. Passenger side also has the squeaks. Not sure what to do from here.

During disassembly I noticed the passenger side LCA very hard to rotate on the axis of the spindle bolt. Infact, I can not move the LCA when the spindle nuts are tight. It seems to be the front outer bushing on the LCA is the hang up. Please look at the pics and tell me what you guys think is going on. The washer for the front outer has a groove in it and it is obviously not riding the way it should. The driver's side is stiff, but will rotate with the nuts tight. For some reason the bushing sleeves look different on the driver's side compared to passenger side. When I say different I mean the material of the sleeve. The passenger side looks zinc coated and the driver's side looks more like plain steel. The spindles were replaced on the this many moons ago, but not that many miles.

Don't forget the oil!!!!

I think I used the inner and outer boot from the t5 . Nice heavy boots that insulate sound well and fit my aftermarket shifter very well

Must be nice to be just down the street from rebello.

the header is pretty!

Jon, Appreciate you staying with me on this. I will revisit and verify what you have said. I don't know if you remember but I was running a heim joint set up that connected the rear control arms. I did this to clear a r200 LSD fin cover. The heim joints were connected( welded via a stud) to the rear cap bolts of the LCA. These joints made tie adjustments possible, but I am thinking that my design might be part of the issue. I no longer need this since I am running the Subby r180 , so I am going to put back the stock bracket , relube everything and slap it back together.

Sorry Leon that didn't help. To me, the fact that the inner sleeve doesn't rotate causes axial load on the bushing. I guess I wonder why the urethane isn't just made the same ID as the control rod mounting point. Sorry I'm so dense on this guys

You say the sleeves are longer off the car, but it's bad if they are longer on the car?

I guess I learned something today about bushings. I was really thinking it would be better for the sleeve to rotate because you wouldn't want any binding of the ID of the urethane against the sleeve . Having a hard time wrapping my head around it for some reason.

Okay guys, help me out here. I took off the rear control arms and suddenly noticed the length of my inner bushing sleeve( steel sleeve) was longer then the control arm pivot. So that tells me that my sleeve is not rotating on the control arm because it is locked in place by the cap bolt. I guess I have the wrong ones ? I'm going to trim the sleeve down and put it back together. Comments?? Also, talked to a buddy who said his urethane bushings on the rear control arm( inner) is one piece where mine is two pieces. What do you guys have.

I think I'm going to give that a shot. I remember installing them and the tolerance was so tight on the steel sleeve that it seemed that the supplied lubricant just squeezed out when assembling. I think length wise groove(s) coming off the zerk would help. It would be great to have another set of fine grooves running around the bushing ID to spread the lube around. I always wondered how well anti-seize would do. I have this permatex shit that won't hardly come off your hands if you get it on you. By the way- I have a loud exhaust and stereo- still not cutting it.

I'll second Leon's comments for Clive. Getting rid of those wires sure looks great and very clean!

This has been covered on a thread before. Not telling you to search, but it was dealt with in detail before and I don't have an accurate answer for you.

Looks like a 1.25mm HG is in order to get you in a good spot. Did you shave any off the block?

That's exactly what my machinist did- didn't know if I got that across in my explanation or not. Some of my rockers were off .014 + in that little area , I should say most if them were off some what and 2 were off really badly. You can actually see the wear pattern on the cam lobes too. Great video and thanks for posting

Well crap- the inner LCAs are the ones that make all the noise I believe

Thanks for the ideas and links. So I guess I will have to clean off all that sticky shit that's on there now and trim the bushings? I will look at the link provided since you said it had pics. I can deal with the harsher ride, but I can't deal with my car sounding like a jalopy going down the road.