madkaw

Bodywork is the slowest and most expensive repair

Thanks for the assurance. The wear pattern shows me the high spots so I know what to address. I think I can get them close enough, surely closer than they are now. Like you said, I could check them periodically for a while. What I didn't take a pic of was the wear pattern on the back side of the lash pad that sits on the valve stem. The other bad one actually shows uneven wear on the bottom side. Instead of a perfect circle wear mark , it's more of a half moon

I took the rocker and lash pad to my machinist. He kind of scratched his head on this one. As mentioned above- there could be several possibilities here. Guide not perfect Cam lobe not parallel to rocker He took the rocker to a true machined surface and laid it face down- lobe follower down against surface. He then used a dial indicator on the lash pad part of the rocker. Moving the rocker side to side you could see the lash pad area was not even across. You could almost make it out with the naked eye. So maybe I got 2 bad rockers? The lash pads measured square across the face . Possible fixes- replace rocker and worry about wiping a cam lobe on new rocker. Have the lash area grinded evenly across- if I can find where to do that. Tighten up the lash and see if this quiets things down

So with all rockers inspected, #2 and #10 are both the same with only half the pad in contact with the rocker. Some others show uneven wear, but it is very minor compared to the two I am talking about.

I will add that my cam lobe to rocker wear looks great and very even

Okay, I got some rockers off. Take a look at the second one I pulled off. Only half the rocker pad touches the lash pad, so it is sitting on there cock eyed I guess. Should I try and dress this somehow so it rides on there square-any recommendations? The others aren't as bad, but I haven't checked them all yet. It seems that my lash pads are the "H" type and it's not a matter of the rocker hitting the high spots on the sides. It's just very uneven wear, which seems worse.

Anyone have a good link for a thread on rocker removal? Ive been searching but...

Thanks Sam, I was just getting ready to post that I found the answer. It says in the manual to wire wasted spark COP the same as just COP. Like you said, it's all done in the firmware. One circuit makes it easy for the coils. Are you running 2 fuses for the injectors?

Soooooo- the actual noise is from the fact that the rocker arm is crashing into the lash pad during engine operation---because the valve adjustment is wrong for the reason that the arm comes into contact with the lash pad in the wrong area( the side). That is because certain pads were made differently. So upon doing the feeler gauge adjustment there is no load on the rocker to seat it properly on the lash pad so it is held up by hitting the sides of the lash pad. Under load the rocker crashes past this point and causes noise and improper valve movement or adjustment. So if I adjusted the valve at .010 with an improperly seated pad, the gap might actually be .014 or something like that. So am I understanding this fully ??

Thanks for the reply. The MS3x is capable of sequential spark and fuel, but for now it's all going to be batch- and that's where it gets a little foggy. I wasn't sure if I needed to spread the load of the circuits out to more than 1 fuse for the coils . This was also my question for the injector power circuits; was there a reason for showing the injectors split up into 2 fused circuits ( 4 cylinder example on megamanual ) I know the MS3x will run wasted spark, but do I wire the coils paired like you said or is the wasted fire all done with the software. Back to the megamanual

I believe I got it. I know the lash pads were changed for the cam geometry and the new followers cam from the Schneider kit, so who knows what I have- but some ticking noise !

Hey- I'm an IU fan, don't be talking about Purdue- lol My daughter graduated IU The valve noise issue is one of those deals where you think a certain amount should be acceptable being a solid lifter cam. I have looked for exhaust leaks because I have had that experience before. This head was completely reworked with a Schneider cam so lash pads were replaced for sizing. In fact I just cut the top off of a valve cover to do further investigation, but I might pull some rockers first. It seems to be mostly one valve, so maybe it's just not seating correctly.

Any updates for this thread? I have also been hearing excessive valve noise on my fresh motor. This is something I really need to look at.

Batch fuel injection is a waste of fuel- okay:0 You might want to rethink that statement. Of course, sequential would be optimum , but batch works just fine. I will eventually set up a sensor for the cam, but it is on the bottom of the list right now. A wasted spark and batch injection will be light years ahead of my dizzy and carbs for now.

COP wasted spark-basically both. I am going to run LS1 smart coils, but run them in wasted spark format. I will be using a 36-1 wheel. I actually drilled my flywheel and will use a Hall gear tooth sensor.

Well this'll be the next step and progression for my Z, so I thought I would start a thread talking about my MS 3X install. My intentions are to have MS 3X run my ignition on my triple Mikuni carbs for now. Eventually I will go fuel injected but now I'm working on putting a plenum together. I have been studying the mega manual on a daily basis trying to figure out how I'm going to do my initial wiring. I do have a few questions if anybody can answer them about the wiring. As far as the wiring for the fuse box on the main plug. The example schematic shows the coil on just one fuse; with a COP coils would you still have it on just one fuse? The schematic also shows splitting the injectors between two fuses -will that work for our engine? I plan on running wasted spark -coil on plug ignition, so I do I will wire the injectors like I do with sequential and use the software formatting to make it wasted spark?

And as far as weight- my air box is pretty light, but I gutted all the webbing inside and I shortened the cover also. I've never weighed it though

I'm surprised you are going thru all this effort with the stand-off injection. And why don't you modify the injectors holes for electronic injectors? I have an oppurtunity to get one of those mechanical FI TB setups and the first thing I thought was converting to electronic . I would think very few run a mechanical Hilbourne set up, but there would be a good demand for a converted ITBs. And please contact my attorney in regards to using my patent for the air cleaner- LOL

Tell her it could be worse, you could take some parts to polish on vacation- LOL

I am laying out the ground work( pun intended) for my MS3x install. Grounding is very important and I want to get this right. Trying to keep things looking tidy and lack of grounding points on the engine makes things a challenge . I was considering a grounding busbar to handle all my grounds. The Megamanual states to run individual wires to the grounding point, so why not run them to a busbar that is directly grounded to the engine. Then you could mount the busbar to the firewall and run one heavy lead to the block. It would look much better then 8 individual wires running to one bolt somewhere. Any cons to this ?

I've tried the HF grinders, but vibration was an issue as with most cheapies. It fatigues the hands very quickly. You about have to put up some bucks for a good one . The flapper adapter is a decent option but has limitations. I like using the angle grinder because they are bigger and absorb better and control is better. Size can be limiting too.

http://www.flapperadapter.com/ I have been giving this a try. I just received it the other day, and although the principle seems to be sound, I haven't got it to run "true" yet. The bits have a some wobble to it when installed. I have been working with the vendor and they have been very willing to resolve this. I love the concept and it should work, but mine hasn't yet.

Take the pulley- they will want to balance that to the crank. The flywheel should be balanced all by itself. Make sure your pulley is in good shape

Being more specific and a video will help. Something changed if the engine ran fine before. No, the e12-80 dizzy is clocked just like the rest. Are you sure your not missing some details about the swap-same airfilters? Same fuel pump? My Mikunis ran like that when I first put my CAI on , because I had blocked the float bowl vents.

Way too much pressure-get a regulator. You will be chasing your tail if you don't correct that first. 3-5lbs max I have a thread here and on classic Z that might cover the basics for you.