madkaw

Thanks John, I'm about ready to go back to rubber. I think I would be willing to give up the small amount of handling to have back some cushion and no squeak maintenance . There's nothing like having a sweet ride that sounds like a wagon

I know this isn't old news but... I have black bushings that I purchased many years ago. I have read the black ones are graphite impregnated , but is that true with all? I have re lubed the bushings with lots of lube and after a while they squeak again. Is there a way to tell visually that they have graphite?

My set up will use stock 5.3 wires. I will eventually get a pic of it. Wherever you put them it seems there is hardly enough room!

Thanks for the ideas guys. Dan, I've seen setup s like yours before. Only thing I don't like is having all the harness above the coils. I'm working on an aluminum 2" square bracket that bolts to the block where the heater hose attaches. It's a shame those 585 coils are such a funky shape, it makes it a challenge to set up

Would you share how you mounted your coils also? I am attempting to mount the d585 truck coils myself and using MS3x to run everything. I think I have my coils mounted worked out but would like to see others

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-2004-Ford-Mustang-V6-3-8-3-9-OEM-Stock-60-mm-Throttle-Body-w-TPS-Sensor-/230777068197 This looks like a great candidate. Genuine OEM with sensor

Exactly. Modulation at the tip in of the throttle gets harder to control because even a slight throttle increase of a large TB is letting in a lot of air. Not a problem if you are always flooring it:) but as a daily driver might be hard to dial in .That's why I asked about the driving characteristics of your car. What TB are you using?

Glad to hear the 70mm is working well for you. Can't tell if your serious or not with the Tip-in comment, but I am guessing you are not having any drivability issues with your set up. No issues easing into the throttle or any transitional throttle issues? 70mm is overkill from a math standpoint based on engine size.

Okay- I took that for granted . I always zero out the leads

Say what? You should always check for 0 ohms before measuring. Never heard of testing or measuring the tester leads. Then you better test the tester that tested your test leads:0 You have a stock coil to try out as suggested?

Done a ohm test on the coil. Sounds like spark isn't holding up under load. Should be some specs to compare to for that MSD Blaster coil.

I wasn't shooting for the biggest I could go . I have read that too big will cause the tip in issues like said, and my engine won't flow enough for anything bigger then probably a 60mm. Money wise, I thought 100$ was decent for a new unit that already had the mounting plate made to weld to my plenum. A few bucks more to save time and aggravation of machining out a mounting plate. Not sure about the reason of cable or no cable linkage. I thought cable was the only option. I did find some 65mm units on eBay, but that's about as small as I found for these CNC versions. I will continue to look at OEM versions. Thanks for the input guys.

25$ at the pick n pull I'm presuming . Then I would have to fab a plate for the intake to mount the TB. 240sx? 70mm to big you think?

Sounds like you need to figure out what you have first. You need to find out what has been done with your L28 and head. Don't waste money on boring the l28 out if it has already been rebuilt. Have the head CC'd to find out what your CR is. Best bang for the buck would be to send the Head off to be massaged with a strong cam and mild relief work-the power is in the head. Compliment that with headers, exhaust, carbs, etc... SU carbs are also great, especially if they have been worked, and very easy to tune. Triples might be frustrating if you are going to rebuild a set yourself and try and go fast. They do require some carb knowledge to make them work right. Gearing will also make things fun. Tune, tune,tune, it takes the whole package to make it fun. http://youtu.be/NGh6urUlzcQ

An engine swap is going to add lot's of expenses that will be hard to account for right now. Sticking with the L28 will save hassle=money. Triples and a HOT cam would probably be the best bang for buck. Do some more research. I know there's an overwhelming amount of info, but there are specific threads on 2jz install and costs. There is also a ton of stuff on camming an L motor. From a strictly cost stance-I could of had a V-8, but like you, I don't want one. I just traded out cars for a drive--- my triple Mikuni l24 for a stock 1977 l28. My car felt much stronger, but the increased CC of the L28 helped even things out. You might consider megasquirt . Performance tuning a FI L28 should produce good results.

http://bit.ly/1455rTN Above is a link to the eBay ad

Okay guys, starting to get serious about this intake. I am in the process of trying to finish fabbing the plenum and need to decide on my TB. I guess what I really need to establish is size. I want to size to cover all my applications which will be 2.5 liter to 3.0 , NA and Turbo. I have read that going to big is a no no and not necessary - especially for the limits of my HP goals( 350-400 max) I thought 70mm would be plenty- any thoughts? I am probably going to just order an EBay universal application type. One reason is that most of those come with a base plate for me to weld on and I won't have to fab. Prices are around 100$ for a new unit with base plate.

RHD.com Japan

..006 and .008 cold

If you are serious about having the "best" ZG's, then order the Shoukia. The Classic Datsun ZG's are like all the rest. Shoukia's are the only ones I know of that fit right-and I have tried both.

Well I kind of gave up, but my issue is a bit different then yours. You issue was about a rocker that wasn't properly seated because the design of the lash pad. My issue is something in the machining is not true. Something is not parallel and the rocker grinding would be a bandaid fix. Someday when I put together another motor I will have the head re examined to see what the true story is. For now, I tightened the lash by .002 on every valve. It made a world of difference in the valve noise and the engine still runs very well, if not smoother. I appreciate all the help

Someone contacted me already about an extra bracket Thanks

That's a shame too- because this head has a lot invested, SS valves and some porting, ect...

Back from the dead thread! I was surfing the net for a possible bracket, I should have known someone here had already thought of it! Got any of these brackets laying around? I plan on running d585 GM truck coils- are the same? They look a little different in the pics, but hard to tell. The ones I have have the heat sinks on the bottom.

I tried addressing the rockers, but I decided to live with it after doing the first one. The more I thought about it, the more I realized I have a problem with this head that can't be fixed in this manner. Chalk this up to having a shop that does NOT have the experience with Z engines to have machined the head wrong. This wear pattern should have been checked during assembly. Though the rocker to cam wear is evenly spaced on the lash pad, the rocker was NOT evenly loaded on the follower surface . You can see the wear less on one side of the rocker. So either the cam lobes are not cut parallel with the head or the valve guides are not perpendicular to the cam. Whatever it is it makes the rocker ride unparallel between the two surfaces . This shows up more on the lash pads. Almost all of them show some extent of side loading . For now I have tightened the valve clearances and it did quiet the motor down. This head will go to Rebello this winter and hope its fixable