madkaw

Well this'll be the next step and progression for my Z, so I thought I would start a thread talking about my MS 3X install. My intentions are to have MS 3X run my ignition on my triple Mikuni carbs for now. Eventually I will go fuel injected but now I'm working on putting a plenum together. I have been studying the mega manual on a daily basis trying to figure out how I'm going to do my initial wiring. I do have a few questions if anybody can answer them about the wiring. As far as the wiring for the fuse box on the main plug. The example schematic shows the coil on just one fuse; with a COP coils would you still have it on just one fuse? The schematic also shows splitting the injectors between two fuses -will that work for our engine? I plan on running wasted spark -coil on plug ignition, so I do I will wire the injectors like I do with sequential and use the software formatting to make it wasted spark?

And as far as weight- my air box is pretty light, but I gutted all the webbing inside and I shortened the cover also. I've never weighed it though

I'm surprised you are going thru all this effort with the stand-off injection. And why don't you modify the injectors holes for electronic injectors? I have an oppurtunity to get one of those mechanical FI TB setups and the first thing I thought was converting to electronic . I would think very few run a mechanical Hilbourne set up, but there would be a good demand for a converted ITBs. And please contact my attorney in regards to using my patent for the air cleaner- LOL

Tell her it could be worse, you could take some parts to polish on vacation- LOL

I am laying out the ground work( pun intended) for my MS3x install. Grounding is very important and I want to get this right. Trying to keep things looking tidy and lack of grounding points on the engine makes things a challenge . I was considering a grounding busbar to handle all my grounds. The Megamanual states to run individual wires to the grounding point, so why not run them to a busbar that is directly grounded to the engine. Then you could mount the busbar to the firewall and run one heavy lead to the block. It would look much better then 8 individual wires running to one bolt somewhere. Any cons to this ?

I've tried the HF grinders, but vibration was an issue as with most cheapies. It fatigues the hands very quickly. You about have to put up some bucks for a good one . The flapper adapter is a decent option but has limitations. I like using the angle grinder because they are bigger and absorb better and control is better. Size can be limiting too.

http://www.flapperadapter.com/ I have been giving this a try. I just received it the other day, and although the principle seems to be sound, I haven't got it to run "true" yet. The bits have a some wobble to it when installed. I have been working with the vendor and they have been very willing to resolve this. I love the concept and it should work, but mine hasn't yet.

Take the pulley- they will want to balance that to the crank. The flywheel should be balanced all by itself. Make sure your pulley is in good shape

Being more specific and a video will help. Something changed if the engine ran fine before. No, the e12-80 dizzy is clocked just like the rest. Are you sure your not missing some details about the swap-same airfilters? Same fuel pump? My Mikunis ran like that when I first put my CAI on , because I had blocked the float bowl vents.

Way too much pressure-get a regulator. You will be chasing your tail if you don't correct that first. 3-5lbs max I have a thread here and on classic Z that might cover the basics for you.

Jon, I believe I have the 8's in there now Leon, I have tried smaller air mains and it does not solve that small zone of leanness . When I say small zone, I mean its a very narrow band that I notice this, but I can watch the AFR real time go lean right into the bobble. This happens during a less then moderate tip in at 3000- roughly. If I get into it any harder the acc pump helps it through this zone without bobble. I will try and make a video this coming week.

I tried the email address on your profile and my I phone said it wasn't valid. I had questions regarding a custom application Steve S_finnerty1018@comcast.net If you could just email me and say HI, I can get a valid email from you Thanks

The tuning adventure continues. I did wind up resetting the acc pumps to the second hole- just too much fuel at tip- in. 67's on the pilots worked pretty well but still have the slightest bobble at the same zone. I am going too richen my floats in last effort to clear this. The only reason I am trying this route is that the bobble seems to be like the bobble at hard right handers I called Todd at wolfcreek racing and didn't have much to offer. When I reported to him my AFR readings at idle and cruise and WOT, he said I was in a place that most guys don't achieve and I am at the limits of a street performance triples. I did pull my plugs after a weekend of combined cruise and hard driving and they looked good

Surely a machinist would make an accurate measurement I think you would be okay with 10-1 with a hot cam, but you are in CA I would shoot for 25-30 squish regardless of CR

Car looks good in the video! Though I have talked myself out of doing a project like this, I still like to see it done. My plan-if I did it-was to at least have megasquirt installed to run spark instead of just locking down a dizzy. I would think that a programmable ignition, things could be kept better in control and less likely to go BOOM. I would shoot for better distribution of air then just shooting the pressure into one end of a box. I thought a cheap way to do this would be to take your 'box' and weld a tapered intercooler end tank to the side or bottom and use a smaller channel to disperse air to your plenum. Keep us updated

I should have figured Tony would have a rebuttal for my post. Let me restate this just for you Tony: Relative to other induction systems found on the L6 , blow thru triples are rare and information is scarce. ....and I have searched. Can it be done - yes- but there isn't a lot of experienced support on this site.

What are you shooting for as far as head to piston clearance?

There is limited info for pressurizing triples on here - because it isn't that practical and difficult to tune. Plus, once you've upgrade fuel an exhaust plumbing most guys have decided to just swap out a turbo motor. I would love to pressurize my Mikunis to be different - but I'm going to do the wiser thing and FI the engine. Good luck

I went on a fishing expedition yesterday to find my jets. Carbs might not be easy, but as much as I have fiddled with my set-up I am getting pretty fast and efficient at R&R! Number 2 carb had both main jets laying in the accelerator pump cavity. One jet was still half way in the bore of the main jet. It had to be impeding flow to that main side -which in turn was effecting WOT. I went ahead and adjusted the acc pumps to the hole on the top for faster tip-in response. I have had the slightest studder as mild tip-in and want to see if this effects that situation. The acc pump rods are the biggest pain to adjust on these carbs because I have a heat shield and you can't get to or SEE what your doing when trying to change the setting on the rod. I actually put jesus clips on the first and second hole of the rod. This way if the first setting is too high, I can go back in and just pull those clips and let the rod fall to the next setting. It's much easier to pull one of those clips then trying to install one in a new setting. As far as pilot jet settings, I am now fudging a bit on the '1' turn rule, which according to the Mikuni manual is actually 1.5 turns. I'm back to running 65's on the pilot because anymore size increase did nothing to help transition issues. With the 65's I stay in the 14-15 AFR range at light throttle and cruise with a high 15 at idle. I might lean towards the 67's in the end, but more tuning will dictate that. Obviously I have had other issues which could change things once fixed. Now that I have kind of started over again I will need to resync my carbs which hasn't been done in a while. I have rigged up a bar that will clamp off my vacuum lines to my vacuum log so I can individually sync the carbs.

Well my Megasquirt 3x is on the way, so I am watching this thread closely. I will running spark initially for my triple Mikuni's and will be learning from you and Leon. I will be going a different route using a MAP sensor since I took the effort to run a vacuum log off of all cylinders. I also did something different as far as trigger wheel and drilled my flywheel for a missing tooth type trigger and using a Cherry hall effect sensor for the pick-up. It will be interesting to see if and how it works! I went with the 3x MS because I can run 'smart' LS1 coils and hopefully reduce the wiring. I plan to eventually go FI with my motor also, so thus the need for full ECU capability. Keep us updated Matt.

For now, this intake will be on an NA motor. Since am making the transition to MEGASQUIRT 2 on a 1971 I will be starting from ground zero. I plan on installing the MS2 and running COP on my motor now to get started learning about engine management. I am ASSuming that my intake will be suitable for NA and Turbo eventually. I don't want to jump right into a pressurized scenario at this point. Besides, I am still having fun with NA and want to build a bigger motor and run it with MS. For now, the MS will be running my L24, so injector sizing will be in order. I have read what you have stated above Tony. I have no 'stock' injectors -per say- so I was shopping for what will do the job cheaply, but hopefully in the high impedance 14mm size

Plan on running MS 2 3.57 HP is maybe 200 flywheel on my L24. Probably going to build a 3.0 and get above 250hp soon enough. So later injector spray patterns are wider for 2 valve intakes?

I appreciate the input Sam. Without even knowing much about the Tau Layer I was trying to find the best injector set-up to get the fuel in the right spot. I have been researching injectors for my manifold and I am interested in the type injectors that shoot at an angle. Actually, I didn't even realize this type injector existed, but my knowledge of FI is very limited. I haven't had much luck trying to find an OEM application that will fit my needs. Most listings of injectors give all specifics for the injector-Except spray angle? What I am hoping to find is a high impedance 30lb -14mm injector that shoots at an 35 degree angle. I have been considering going to an injector shop and just asking them to match me up with a specific injector for my needs.

Coil overs or stock? The 8.5 will probably clear up front with coil overs. Stock perches can be flattened on the wheel side to clear- no spacers needed. Rear will clear based on tire size. My 245/45/17's rub on the inner fender well. I think 235's will clear and 225's should for sure. Running 245's all around but 45 profile. 40's might be better .

Actually, the more I read , the less I'm getting hung up on exact injector placement. I'm not ever going to make such a cammed mister that it won't idle good and if I did then two sets of injectors would be in order. I'm going to shoot for packaging and the easiest method of securing the fuel rail against te Cannon manifold. If that means being 1-2 inches down the runner- so be it. I will shoot for 45 degree angle or more.