madkaw

I would disconnect the LCA's from the inboard side and check how the LCA pivots on the spindle. Hopefully your 'repair' on the hub didn't make things unsquare. Did you use a t square or something to make sure the spindle bushing surfaces were 90 degrees flat to the spindle bolt ? The forward and rearward bushing surfaces should also be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the spindle bolt. You might have filed or sanded at an angle .

I would bet your LCA is in a bind. I had squeaks from the same reason. Something's no pivoting correctly and the noise is transmitting everywhere.

Loved it. Sounds as obsessive about his car as I am of mine. My exhaust is not that loud, but duals sound great on these cars- regardless of the fact that it adds weight, not much performance gains, etc... I need to get a video of my car down the road- from the outside listening in:)

Got my coil bracket done-almost!! A few loose ends to do, but was excited to see stock LS1 wires worked out well. So no expensive custom sets to make. Got these wires on ebay(stock GM) for 24$ shipped!

Never had read much goo as far as knock sensors, the best one is the two on your head(ears). Guys have made homemade versions using a hearing-aid device they sell on the late night infomercials. Basically using the mic from the hearing aid and putting it in the engine compartment to pick up early signs of detonation noise. Then you where a ear piece or headsets inside the car. Just google and you will find. It seems this device is more reliable then a knock sensor.

Glad to give you your first ride in a Z. Like I said, just add about 50% HP to my HP and that's where you'll be:) Sorry about your bad luck having to go to Hawaii-I really feel for you. I'll be in franklin Monday to pick up a 280zx motor some guy is selling---more power!! Let me know if your still in town.

But the one singular ground point - according to MS 3 readings is better to be the engine.

Good thread to bring up, but not sure about the statement as far as the engine not being a good ground. All the MS stuff I read says to use a good engine ground and NOT the body/frame. As far as understanding ground loops - I am still unsure but reading more everyday. Matt Crammers book on high performance FI discusses ground loops and has some diagrams

I thought of doing the turbo route with my CAI valve cover, but thought better of trying to pressurizing mikuni's. You could use the valve cover with some minor welding by someone else. The tough part will be getting it to seal without having to come with more bolt down points. Not sure if my 6 bolts would seal to a backing plate during pressure.

So no mods to the stock FI? When you get into the power it might get interesting.

Fair labor rate for a very exclusive service. It is really cool that someone even offers this service. As stated earlier, bunch of cheap bastards own these cars-sorry guys, nothing personal. Hey, I try and save a buck anyway I can, but if you want to play, then pay! It's the same crowd that thinks a quality paint job can be had for 2000$. Try and get a body shop to take on the project, that's the first battle. Then fight to get in done in less then a year-and still pay 90$ an hour. I understand this is a forum to speak your mind, but don't let your personal financial perspective dictate your comments.

Really having a hard time deciding how to route all the wires. Maybe it's because I know I will be drilling holes into my firewall and its got to be right. From what I have been reading In regards to 'noise', it seems prudent to keep my sensor wiring well away from anything else. I plan on mounting the "box" to the trans tunnel passenger side close to the firewall - harnesses facing forward. I will split the main harness in 2 sections keeping the sensors apart from everything else. I will probably run the sensor wires thru my old choke cable hole and run the rest of the main harness thru another spot( maybe my A/C holes). Any suggestions

Wiring Products.com

Might check out my MS3 install thread. The fuseblocks I am using are nice

Jesh- are you running a big block- lol

You can fix that with 3.90 gears!

Your problem is that you only have 1 pipe- you need double your pleasure with duals!

LOL

Well I'm not going to start a new thread since this issue has been discussed many times already. What I was looking for was stock pinion angles of operation for the s-30. I'm looking for exact numbers from your stock machine which includes down angle of trans, angle of DS, angle of pinion. My case of vibration is at 75mph approx. I WAS running the RT mount with GM insulator, but I have gone back to stock diff mount and using thr Rt to sandwich things-so-i should be in stock location at that end. The other end is my BWT-5 which has a mount bracket modified to fit my s-30. I think my trans is hanging to low, but would like to hear what operating angle is on a stock Nissan trans in the right chassis to compare with mine. I have been reading site after site on pinion angles and realized that my earlier calculations were not right. I am revisiting this issue, but knowing what Nissan did with the short DS operating angles would help clue me in. Obviously by all the threads I have been reviewing there has been numerous issues with getting this right---probably because of our very short shaft.

Starting to find places for all the wires

Let me finalize my design complete with wires before I try and sell anything. What you see here is my 3rd version already. Next will be deciding how and where I am going to run my harness(s) thru the firewall. What have some of you guys done?

Revived from the dead. I did get them to lighten my flywheel and haven't had any issues with it.

I have enough to make at least 3 or 4 more, but it's nothing special at all. Just 1.5" square aluminum notched with a hole saw to allow the round coil to sit flat. The bitch has been getting them situated that I can run the spark wires. This might not be my last version before it's all over. I need to get some stock wires from the JY and see how it goes. It would be nice to just order off the shelf than to make custom sets.

I guess it would have helped to included installed pic

Well I haven't done much lately except for fixing squeaky urethane bushings. I did manage to finish up a prototype(sounds official) for my D585 bracket. This is pretty much a finished product, but might need some tweaking once I install spark wires. It was tougher than I thought trying to find room for all this; plus the fact that Delco couldn't have made these coils anymore unsymetrical in shape. I didn't want to reroute my heater hose and it will run under the bracket. The bracket attaches with the 2 bolts for the heater hose. I plan on using studs for mounting and it will be easier to utilize the block for grounding spots ,since there are so few. I bought a complete set of coils and diced and spliced the harness to make a six banger set-up.The connectors just clear all obstacles. The spark wires might be custom or stock. The stock wires might work by just looping the extra length of wire-if you can picture that. MS power; I have kept an old 82zxt harness that was in amazing condition and I have been canning parts from it. I have pictured what i think is the main starting circuit relays or the main relays off of the zxt. The fuse terminal block with the two leads I will use in line from the battery to the main relay. I'm betting it's a 60 amp for the zxt. The two relays mounted together should be perfect for the main and the fuel relay. The battery power will come from a 10 guage wire from the + battery. I will use another ganged fuse block like the one pictured on the inner fender which will be powered off the main relay. That will be dedicated for the MS. The ganged fuse block that is already installed will be just for accessories since it is powered straight off the alternator. Question regarding ignition input. I stare at the schematic that was supplied by DIY and I am having trouble interpreting how the ignition should tie in. They show power parallel to the battery +. Are they just implying that you need a hot wire from your ignition for the relay? I might be over thinking this.