madkaw

Tony, don't want to delute this thread, but I wanted to ask about the oil port while on the subject. Trying to make sure I haven't over looked something. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104909-excessive-oil-pressure-issue/

Ordered a urethane kit from prothane for the rear control arms. So i'm looking at the urethane bushings and noticed that the ID's have been slotted to hold grease-nice! I never did like the fact that the sleeve was such a tight fit on the bushing that it seemed that any lube put on there just oozed out when installing the sleeve inside the urethane. At least some of it will stay in there now.

Thought I might had an answer to my excessive oil pressure-shucks

While we are on the subject of head oiling. I did have the port opened up on my block during initial rebuild. I have since then had to replace the HG. I know I didn't do anything to enlarge the hole on the HG- is this a problem besides defeating the purpose of modifying the block. Not meaning to hijack your thread. Congrats and hope things stay lubed up !!

We might be surprised if someone took a late zx and MS'd it and spent some serious dyno time. I think that would give the biggest gains compared to grinding any part of the head.

If you are unable to verify how can results be good ??

I'd love to hear about the blow thru set up. I'd love to hear the engine. More details please ....

Yikes!

I would not run both spray bar and internal oiling unless you can verify visually that both systems are being effective. I did my own experiment years ago and could NOT get both to work . My block orifice was enlarged - but I visually saw that the spray bar was ineffective because the oil didn't reach the pad. I used a drill to drive my oil pump. I'm not saying it can't be done or my experiment proved absolute, but why complicate things. I decided to stick with internal oiling on my engine.

yes on the paypal. I do need to find a box;)

So fast it will make you freak!

I've got it and responded to your email. It's actually pretty nice too!

I did grind a bit off the console shifter opening so the boot wouldn't push the my trans out of gear in third.

It should be a nice bump in performance from a stock L 26 e-88 head. Probably stock flat tops and CR would be a guess. You can google for the Datsun engine calculator and plug in some numbers for parts swapping. This will not tell you if the stock chambers have been altered. I would it would be close to 10:1 , but purely a guess. How's it run??

Regardless if they are self locking or not, the bushing isn't correct if it is turning the washer - which in turn will rotate the nut loose. The nuts are self locking though.

Took another day of examining things. The driver's side was really no better. What was happening on both sides was that after torquing the spindle nuts down, I would rotate the LCA back and forth and it would turn the washer -thus lossening the nut. That in turn would loosen or free up the movement around the spindle. On both sides the sleeve was turning and eventually wore a gouge into my strut/spindle housing-bad I have ordered a new LCA urethane kit for the rear. It is very apparent that I didn't know what I was doing on my first install. I just took for granted that you pulled out the old and installed the new and you were done. That would be true if I atleast checked to see if the bushings were rotating or operating as they should. I did file down the spindle housing ends to start with a clean surface. I measured out the spacing and it will still be a tight squeeze with new spindle bushings. I think I took off 1mm off the spindle(strut) housing to get the surface flat. I will replace my worn washer. I guess I will assemble and torque the spindle side of the LCA first to check things over during rotation to make sure the washer is not rotating with the LCA. Hopefully someone will learn from my mistakes. I believe all these misteps have led to premature squeaks in the bushings. I probably don't have 12k miles on this car since rebuild

Took the spindle out and look what I found. The mounting surface for the LCA had a high spot where the bushing rode and the surface is indented or gouged where the sleeve rides. The high spot tore up the urethane flange and I imagine the worn area where the sleeve rides has diminished some of the sleeve length and causing the bushings to be pinched--agree????

So I swapped around washers on the LCA's. Driver's side still moves around much easier even with the bad washer. The passenger side will not move when fully torqued. How hard should these LCA's pivot on the spindle? I can understand a little effort to move them, but this passenger side must be effecting my suspension travel -geometry. Passenger side also has the squeaks. Not sure what to do from here.

During disassembly I noticed the passenger side LCA very hard to rotate on the axis of the spindle bolt. Infact, I can not move the LCA when the spindle nuts are tight. It seems to be the front outer bushing on the LCA is the hang up. Please look at the pics and tell me what you guys think is going on. The washer for the front outer has a groove in it and it is obviously not riding the way it should. The driver's side is stiff, but will rotate with the nuts tight. For some reason the bushing sleeves look different on the driver's side compared to passenger side. When I say different I mean the material of the sleeve. The passenger side looks zinc coated and the driver's side looks more like plain steel. The spindles were replaced on the this many moons ago, but not that many miles.

Don't forget the oil!!!!

I think I used the inner and outer boot from the t5 . Nice heavy boots that insulate sound well and fit my aftermarket shifter very well

Must be nice to be just down the street from rebello.

the header is pretty!

Jon, Appreciate you staying with me on this. I will revisit and verify what you have said. I don't know if you remember but I was running a heim joint set up that connected the rear control arms. I did this to clear a r200 LSD fin cover. The heim joints were connected( welded via a stud) to the rear cap bolts of the LCA. These joints made tie adjustments possible, but I am thinking that my design might be part of the issue. I no longer need this since I am running the Subby r180 , so I am going to put back the stock bracket , relube everything and slap it back together.

Sorry Leon that didn't help. To me, the fact that the inner sleeve doesn't rotate causes axial load on the bushing. I guess I wonder why the urethane isn't just made the same ID as the control rod mounting point. Sorry I'm so dense on this guys