madkaw

WOW-that's bad! You probably oughta just sell it while your ahead.

New bushings arrived and installed. New urethane bushings no squeaky! This time I ran the suspension threw its travel to see how freely the bushing were- and they worked smoothly.

Could you not just tap into the Cannon "runner " that's there now? In the center would give you a good signal.

If you blew a HG and ANY coolant got to the O2 sensor it's done.

What a cool idea:) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/96528-cai-for-triple-mikunis/?hl=%2Btriple+%2Bmikuni I would have done it different though for the turbo app. Keep up the work!!

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/23392-cam-oiling-investigation.html

I think everyone has to check their rockers for being parallel. My rockers were supposedly new with my Schneider cam kit, but my wear shows an unparrallel condition-and they were.

What I'm saying is that there is only 4 bolts holding that crossmember in place. If you are running the RT mount and no crossmember mount, then it's a couple of minutes to move it.

I guess with an RT mount I just figure 4 bolts make easy access by removing that damn bracket

250$ of glitter! Doesn't look much narrower, how do you know? How many times do you need to get to your DS?

Nice to see a happy cam story !

I think my drill turns at 3800 rpm- how much do you need to see oil coming from the lobes OR spray bar. That looks like a sign of No oil. I would have pop canned a valve cover to watch it while engine was running. I would have done the drill to just prime everything. Not trying to rub anything I dude, because I know how frustrating this is got to be.

Damn dude - that sucks bad. I'm not for the dual oil system , but to exclusively blame that as the issue- I'm not sure about that. Like I said before, with what you have been dealing with I would have kept it simple and decided on one oiling system. Did you verify visually oil was getting to every lobe before starting? By now I would have can opened a valve cover to watch in real time.

You really need to do some researching before you post. Your lucky this thread hasn't been thrown to the tool shed. Come back with some more specific question besides asking if anyone knows about a stock engine potential. No snobs here, just folks that have answered these basic questions a thousand times and it is well documented.

Your right-somethings not right, and replacing the parts is where i'm starting-plus my new knowledge you guys have supplied. The only way i can explain is that the washer was riding squarely on the bushing flange after torqueing, because the sleeve is worn and undersized now. The large area of the washer is enough to hold the bushing which is leveraged by the LCA and loosen the nut.Once everything is loose, the nut doesn't loosen any further.

Tony, don't want to delute this thread, but I wanted to ask about the oil port while on the subject. Trying to make sure I haven't over looked something. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104909-excessive-oil-pressure-issue/

Ordered a urethane kit from prothane for the rear control arms. So i'm looking at the urethane bushings and noticed that the ID's have been slotted to hold grease-nice! I never did like the fact that the sleeve was such a tight fit on the bushing that it seemed that any lube put on there just oozed out when installing the sleeve inside the urethane. At least some of it will stay in there now.

Thought I might had an answer to my excessive oil pressure-shucks

While we are on the subject of head oiling. I did have the port opened up on my block during initial rebuild. I have since then had to replace the HG. I know I didn't do anything to enlarge the hole on the HG- is this a problem besides defeating the purpose of modifying the block. Not meaning to hijack your thread. Congrats and hope things stay lubed up !!

We might be surprised if someone took a late zx and MS'd it and spent some serious dyno time. I think that would give the biggest gains compared to grinding any part of the head.

If you are unable to verify how can results be good ??

I'd love to hear about the blow thru set up. I'd love to hear the engine. More details please ....

Yikes!

I would not run both spray bar and internal oiling unless you can verify visually that both systems are being effective. I did my own experiment years ago and could NOT get both to work . My block orifice was enlarged - but I visually saw that the spray bar was ineffective because the oil didn't reach the pad. I used a drill to drive my oil pump. I'm not saying it can't be done or my experiment proved absolute, but why complicate things. I decided to stick with internal oiling on my engine.

yes on the paypal. I do need to find a box;)