madkaw

Being more specific and a video will help. Something changed if the engine ran fine before. No, the e12-80 dizzy is clocked just like the rest. Are you sure your not missing some details about the swap-same airfilters? Same fuel pump? My Mikunis ran like that when I first put my CAI on , because I had blocked the float bowl vents.

Way too much pressure-get a regulator. You will be chasing your tail if you don't correct that first. 3-5lbs max I have a thread here and on classic Z that might cover the basics for you.

Jon, I believe I have the 8's in there now Leon, I have tried smaller air mains and it does not solve that small zone of leanness . When I say small zone, I mean its a very narrow band that I notice this, but I can watch the AFR real time go lean right into the bobble. This happens during a less then moderate tip in at 3000- roughly. If I get into it any harder the acc pump helps it through this zone without bobble. I will try and make a video this coming week.

I tried the email address on your profile and my I phone said it wasn't valid. I had questions regarding a custom application Steve S_finnerty1018@comcast.net If you could just email me and say HI, I can get a valid email from you Thanks

The tuning adventure continues. I did wind up resetting the acc pumps to the second hole- just too much fuel at tip- in. 67's on the pilots worked pretty well but still have the slightest bobble at the same zone. I am going too richen my floats in last effort to clear this. The only reason I am trying this route is that the bobble seems to be like the bobble at hard right handers I called Todd at wolfcreek racing and didn't have much to offer. When I reported to him my AFR readings at idle and cruise and WOT, he said I was in a place that most guys don't achieve and I am at the limits of a street performance triples. I did pull my plugs after a weekend of combined cruise and hard driving and they looked good

Surely a machinist would make an accurate measurement I think you would be okay with 10-1 with a hot cam, but you are in CA I would shoot for 25-30 squish regardless of CR

Car looks good in the video! Though I have talked myself out of doing a project like this, I still like to see it done. My plan-if I did it-was to at least have megasquirt installed to run spark instead of just locking down a dizzy. I would think that a programmable ignition, things could be kept better in control and less likely to go BOOM. I would shoot for better distribution of air then just shooting the pressure into one end of a box. I thought a cheap way to do this would be to take your 'box' and weld a tapered intercooler end tank to the side or bottom and use a smaller channel to disperse air to your plenum. Keep us updated

I should have figured Tony would have a rebuttal for my post. Let me restate this just for you Tony: Relative to other induction systems found on the L6 , blow thru triples are rare and information is scarce. ....and I have searched. Can it be done - yes- but there isn't a lot of experienced support on this site.

What are you shooting for as far as head to piston clearance?

There is limited info for pressurizing triples on here - because it isn't that practical and difficult to tune. Plus, once you've upgrade fuel an exhaust plumbing most guys have decided to just swap out a turbo motor. I would love to pressurize my Mikunis to be different - but I'm going to do the wiser thing and FI the engine. Good luck

I went on a fishing expedition yesterday to find my jets. Carbs might not be easy, but as much as I have fiddled with my set-up I am getting pretty fast and efficient at R&R! Number 2 carb had both main jets laying in the accelerator pump cavity. One jet was still half way in the bore of the main jet. It had to be impeding flow to that main side -which in turn was effecting WOT. I went ahead and adjusted the acc pumps to the hole on the top for faster tip-in response. I have had the slightest studder as mild tip-in and want to see if this effects that situation. The acc pump rods are the biggest pain to adjust on these carbs because I have a heat shield and you can't get to or SEE what your doing when trying to change the setting on the rod. I actually put jesus clips on the first and second hole of the rod. This way if the first setting is too high, I can go back in and just pull those clips and let the rod fall to the next setting. It's much easier to pull one of those clips then trying to install one in a new setting. As far as pilot jet settings, I am now fudging a bit on the '1' turn rule, which according to the Mikuni manual is actually 1.5 turns. I'm back to running 65's on the pilot because anymore size increase did nothing to help transition issues. With the 65's I stay in the 14-15 AFR range at light throttle and cruise with a high 15 at idle. I might lean towards the 67's in the end, but more tuning will dictate that. Obviously I have had other issues which could change things once fixed. Now that I have kind of started over again I will need to resync my carbs which hasn't been done in a while. I have rigged up a bar that will clamp off my vacuum lines to my vacuum log so I can individually sync the carbs.

Well my Megasquirt 3x is on the way, so I am watching this thread closely. I will running spark initially for my triple Mikuni's and will be learning from you and Leon. I will be going a different route using a MAP sensor since I took the effort to run a vacuum log off of all cylinders. I also did something different as far as trigger wheel and drilled my flywheel for a missing tooth type trigger and using a Cherry hall effect sensor for the pick-up. It will be interesting to see if and how it works! I went with the 3x MS because I can run 'smart' LS1 coils and hopefully reduce the wiring. I plan to eventually go FI with my motor also, so thus the need for full ECU capability. Keep us updated Matt.

For now, this intake will be on an NA motor. Since am making the transition to MEGASQUIRT 2 on a 1971 I will be starting from ground zero. I plan on installing the MS2 and running COP on my motor now to get started learning about engine management. I am ASSuming that my intake will be suitable for NA and Turbo eventually. I don't want to jump right into a pressurized scenario at this point. Besides, I am still having fun with NA and want to build a bigger motor and run it with MS. For now, the MS will be running my L24, so injector sizing will be in order. I have read what you have stated above Tony. I have no 'stock' injectors -per say- so I was shopping for what will do the job cheaply, but hopefully in the high impedance 14mm size

Plan on running MS 2 3.57 HP is maybe 200 flywheel on my L24. Probably going to build a 3.0 and get above 250hp soon enough. So later injector spray patterns are wider for 2 valve intakes?

I appreciate the input Sam. Without even knowing much about the Tau Layer I was trying to find the best injector set-up to get the fuel in the right spot. I have been researching injectors for my manifold and I am interested in the type injectors that shoot at an angle. Actually, I didn't even realize this type injector existed, but my knowledge of FI is very limited. I haven't had much luck trying to find an OEM application that will fit my needs. Most listings of injectors give all specifics for the injector-Except spray angle? What I am hoping to find is a high impedance 30lb -14mm injector that shoots at an 35 degree angle. I have been considering going to an injector shop and just asking them to match me up with a specific injector for my needs.

Coil overs or stock? The 8.5 will probably clear up front with coil overs. Stock perches can be flattened on the wheel side to clear- no spacers needed. Rear will clear based on tire size. My 245/45/17's rub on the inner fender well. I think 235's will clear and 225's should for sure. Running 245's all around but 45 profile. 40's might be better .

Actually, the more I read , the less I'm getting hung up on exact injector placement. I'm not ever going to make such a cammed mister that it won't idle good and if I did then two sets of injectors would be in order. I'm going to shoot for packaging and the easiest method of securing the fuel rail against te Cannon manifold. If that means being 1-2 inches down the runner- so be it. I will shoot for 45 degree angle or more.

That's why I have the other thread started- Carbs are a PITA!

I had planned on getting things as close to the valve as possible just for the reason of idle and tuning. I think I can work around the bolt issues. In fact when I looked at the manifold and the angle of the injector and bung, I didn't think it would be an issue at all-especially if I run studs like on my mikuni's now. I was more worried about how I was going to secure my fuel rail on this Cannon manifold. I also noted that some injectors spray at an angle-as much as 25 degrees-which I might to be able to use to my advantage.

Tony, I believe you have seen the 'exception' to everything on these engines! LOL

Sam, I have much to learn, but I'm not sure what you mean by impinging fuel on the bungs. I was considering placing the bungs at about a 45 degree angle centered between where the runner meets the flange. I would be shooting to have the fuel spray come out in the middle of the head port(whatever that angle might be). The bungs supplied with the intake are a bit long, but I thought that was due to make them adaptable to whatever set-up.

So I am ready to get serious about this intake. It's been a nice shelf ornament but I am ordering my MS2 and ready to proceed on with FI. With Tony's comments it sounds like 14mm bungs are the way to go-I can always go smaller I guess. I haven't decided high or low impedance yet, but that shouldn't affect the build aspect. I will be getting a Pallnet fuel rail Assuming that if the injectors are mounted right up against the runner flange, that a rail made for a stock intake will work fine. I have also decided to finish out the design that's been started. I am getting some aluminum pipe and going to 'cap" what I have now. What I need to decide is the "angle of entry" for the TB. I think whatever that angle is will determine what pipe I order since I will use the mandrel bend to help blend the TB into the plenum. I am thinking 75mm TB for now. I will initially running this on a NA motor, so I am trying to make this set-up versatile for both-turbo later! I don't see where 75mm will too big, and I can always reduce to 60mm with an adapter. I'm not sure what TB I will go with, but searching to steal one of a production car. I'd like to find an intake that I can steal the TB and be able to maybe cut off the thick flange that the TB mounts too(just to save from fabbing). Any comments or suggestions are welcome

Tuning nightmares!!!!!!!!!!!!! So I am chasing a dead spot that happens during moderate tip-in around 3000+ range. The Mikuni manual suggests small float adjustments to fix transition issues.To my advantage I have the newer Mikuni's that have adjustable float option on the outside of the carb. I have had new needle valves in my possession, but haven't installed them yet. So I thought I would change them out and at the same time verify that the adjusters for the floats actually work. I am impressed how accurate the adjusters are. Each half a turn on the adjuster moves the fulcrum on the float to make a total adjustment of 1mm. I reassembled everything and drove around for a while pushing the transition areas and no luck, so I slam the throttle wide open, where I know it still runs there, and it sounds like sh%t and no power. What the hell happened now? So I start checking everything out from ignition to vacuum leaks. The only thing I really changed was the float needle assemblies. So I pull the covers off again and compare old assemblies with new. The needle assemblies I have are 1.8's and I had 1.5's , so more fuel right? Make a call to Todd at Wolfcreek and he says "yep", no longer carry the 1.5's-should work fine. I recheck the float adjustments and put it back together at 13mm height. Still dead at high rpm WOT Well maybe I need to back off my mains to compensate, but I doubt it. I pull the jet assemblies and lay them out on the bench and start swapping out main jets--WAIT-I'm one short. The main jet fell off or I didn't install it??? Man I don't want to pull all the covers off again to look. So I install the next size down and drive around and things are seeming good again. So this missing jet was throwing me way off, but now I can start fine tuning again. Third time out with a pilot change and WHAMMO, it's doing the same thing. So I immediately go for the main jets and found that my carb ATE another jet. WTF!!! So now I have two main jets laying in my float bowls(I assume that's where they are). So maybe the first time I screwed up and forgot to tighten down the jet properly. I usually pull all of the assemblies out of the carbs at once and do an assembly line change. Maybe I got in a hurry the first time. The second time, I'm not sure. Maybe I am not tightening these jets down hard enough. I know brass relies on the newer threads to cut and hold, so maybe the many changes I have made have worn the threads down enough that they don't hold as well. Not sure if there a solution other than new jets? I gave up for the day at least knowing there nothing major wrong with the car. These kind of days make you pull your hair out.

Your not turning the oil pump- you are turning the SHAFT that connects the pump to the dizzy. You have to pull the oil pump and drop the shaft away from GEAR it is engaged to on the crank. You CAN NOT turn the shaft while in the timing cover . In your FSM shows there's marks to line the shaft up in the pump BEFORE you shove it up in the timing cover that should get you close. Of course this is all done with 1 cylinder TDC. VERIFY position on shaft for the dizzy by looking at the FSM picture of the tang line-up in the timing cover- 11.25 o clock.