naviathan

Given the wire color coding and the factory looking loom I'd have to agree, it does look like a power antenna switch.

You want torque, pull the injectors out more. The further from the valve the more time the fuel has to atomize which creates a better burn in the cylinder. I like the tapering. That should really increase air velocity into the cylinders. It looks like you have the right idea so far, but you may want to check out Top End Performance. They have a tripple throttle body setup that's 3 banks of two throttles instead of 2 banks of three. http://www.racetep.com

PM me, I have one. It's in my 77, but that's getting a TEC III when it's done.

Sounds like some kind of legal bull. We have big block powered Z Cars here and they don't seem to have any problems. Give the inspector the webaddress here and tell him to browse the setups we've got going on. That should put his mind at rest...

Best bet would probably be to go to your local dealership and talk to the service manager. He could probably help you out. Even if it is just pointing you in the right direction.

That ws why I asked what kind of body work. Same thought crossed my mind.

It does sound like a rich condition. Although it sounds as though you've gone over all the usual suspects. What kind of body work were you doing?

I bought mine from Jerry at Z Race Products for $350 + shipping and it was already balanced and checked over by a machine shop. most of the ones he's got are turned also. I got lucky and received one that hasn't been turned nor does it need to be. Not sure how many he's got left, but you can always email and ask. http://www.zraceproducts.com

AHHHahah.. Got it! On whim last month I bought an O2 sensor. Not sure why I just did. I checked the green led on the ecu tonight and it was solid, no matter what the car was doing. I swapped out the O2 and it's good to go!

Yes this I understand. The stock system is far from easy, but I don't have the money to keep the MS2 system I just built. It's gotta go and quick so I can pick up a couple more kits to sell. Anyone looking for one?

Yes I know all about Blue's tips for calibrating the AFM. However I wasn't exactly wanting to go through all that. Seems I'll have to though.

I don't know, the new VWs are getting 45+ mpg on their diesels. Seems worth while to me, and their biodiesel engineered. Make your own fuel in your back yard!

Tony, so if I have a friend hold my engine at 3500 rpms and adjust the AFM so it hits the end point of the wipe pattern right there it should be set correctly at that point right?

I guess that's possible. Can't see why it wouldn't work.

I'll check the fuel pressure again, but I don't believe this is the problem. Of course today I've come across another issue. I'm losing coolant somewhere and can't figure out where. There's no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil so I can't imagine it's getting in the cylinders, but I'm not finding any evidence of leaks either. This whole car needs to be gone through and checked over. Gee it's only got 216,000+ miles on it...

For that kind of money you can get a single Corbeau, where as this is for both seats with sliders.

That's what I want. A nice economic diesel run around town car for the wife to drive. For me, eh I'm putting a 3.54 rear in my 5 speed ZX. If I can ever find a T56 and get adapters from Jerry at ZRaceProducts my 77 will get good mileage when I'm done with it as well.

I've been tuning the hell out of my car over the last two weeks. I started with it running lean in the upper RPMs. I've adjusted the AFM so many times I could probably map the the internals out in my sleep. But I finally got it to stop detonating above 4500rpm (result of the super lean condition). Of course it took forever to find a happy medium between idle, cruise and high RPM mixtures with the AFM (anyone have a colortune they'd be willing to sell cheap?). Now I've got that all set, but my idle seems to surge. For instance, coming to s stop light, the rpms drop, it sits a little high for about 10-15 seconds (900-1000rpm BCDD I assume). Once it drops back to 750-800 rpm it will surge randlomly dropping down as low (and this is the low) as 500rpm coming back up to 850-900 then back to 750 back to 850 down to 500/600 back up. I'm thinking she's a bit lean at idle. I might have the AFM air bypass screw out too far. Just looking for other expert oppinions.

I'd say replace the waste gate as it probably has issues if there were zip ties on it. Better safe then sitting on the side of the road wishing you had...

Yeah get a main seal installation tool. It's usually just a big round rubber stopper looking thing that you line up on the seal and tap with a hammer and it slides in. Also try using some oil around the seal while installing it.

You're in there, might as well at least get it honed and reringed. Replace the bearings and seals and you should be good for a long time on that engine.

Yes, tripples are awesome. I prefer the Webber Tripple Throttle Bodies though, not carbs. You can get the full kit from Top End Performance with all the EFI and Engine Management to boot. (I have this full kit and it ran me around $5400) Nah, I'd go with the P90. It's better flowing and comes with steel seats and valves stock, so there's no need to replace the seats (E88 and others had brass seats because of leaded gas). Not to mention your compression ratio will be high enough with the stroker. Rebello Racing, Sunbelt, BRAAP (member here). A well built, balanced, ported, cammed etc... L31 can produce between 250-300hp. Plenty for having some fun on streets and the occassional run down the track. Don't forget to upgrade the cooling system. Arizona Z Car has aluminum radiators. A bit pricey but well worth it.

They are 8" wide rims. They're from the group buy.

Are you refering to the adjustment screw on the outside of the AFM in the lower right? That would be the air bypass screw and it is adjustable. However it's similar in respect to a air screw on a carb. No two vehicles are going to be exactly the same. Tightening it richens, loosening it leans. It's really only useful at idle. Once you crack the throttle the air flowing through the flap is sufficient.

You have every circuit in the book installed. If you're only running fuel I wonder what effect all the mixed circuitry would do. I see two diodes that should be jumpered and two caps that shouldn't even be on there. Did you just match the numbers and install everything? I'd go through the book and pull and.or jumper everything you're not using, but the resistors pulling off the heat sink could have had a lot to do with it if they were overheating.