gregkring

I moved the trans up as far as I could. I also moved the diff up slightly in the rear to get the angles just right. Technically I should not have had to do anything to the rear. I never measured it with the stock trans so I don't know what the factory angles were. Just shooting for the standard 1-3 degrees.

I have an apex mount new not used I can sell for $150. I kept the GM poly trans mount and ended up making my own. You do have to cut the ears off the factory trans mount and with the shaped floor you can't just move them down. I did not like the driveshaft angle with the Cd009 and Nissan L motor.

back to the transmission. What clutch slave cylinder and lines did you use? I am doing a L6 with JWT 6 speed, but the conversion kit type lines don't fit inside the bell housing. I don't want to use a stock one as they are bad plus having to figure out how to convert the hydraulic lines.

COOL. NO HURRY.

Obviously that will not work due to my location. Probably not much call for an auto trans, but I can use the bellhousing. If you can see fit to help a fellow Z'er I can cover shipping. If you don't want to then it's cool and I will keep looking.

will take transmission. Only need housing, you can keep/resell the rest

anytime I see boost falling with RPM I would check valve spring pressure as well. Especially if it is stock springs with that cam. A little play on a turbo is fine and won't cause dropping boost, but it is you doing the wiggling so I can't judge that. Feeling it move is one thing, but hearing it move by hand is definitely bad.

This is your late Christmas present. There are so many threads on rims this one should go to the tool shed. However, All the rims you listed will work, but won't give you max tire size. I have a 71 with BC coilovers. I went with 17X8 and 225/45/17 tires. The rims were Rota RKR with a 4 offset. If they made the rims with more offset (+10) I could have fit a 8.5 on the rear with no rubbing. You do not want negative at all for stock fenders. That is for guys with flares. You need positive offset to push the rim towards the coilovers to get a wider tire in there. If lip is more important stick with zero offset or find a rim with a convex design to maximize the look.

Did it. Not a bolt on deal, but easier than a LS1 swap! Nobody here should be scared. rear parking hat brakes

About &950 with shipping, series one available next month. No mention of free shipping when I contacted them. Just glad to finally have an option over the $2000 legendary dashes wants to redo one. Anybody need a new dash cap? Greg

just to go on record I am in for one of the kits, but have not heard back how to confirm. I don't have a running car, but am ready to install engine and trans if that helps. Waiting on this trans kit has been one of the many reasons I have procrastinated. I have a series 1 so the trans mount will be different anyway. I did email you direct, but as busy as you are I don't expect quick answers. Does the custom flywheel use the 225 mm regular or the 250 mm turbo and 2+2 larger clutch diameter? Thanks, Greg

I have one, but can't remember what I paid for it years ago. Still holding out for the 6 speed adapter.

I messaged you on Facebook. Was wanting to try your adapter with the VQ37 6 speeds. I happen to have a couple good ones already. Lots of shifter, hydraulic clutch, and throwout bearing kits and spacers out there for the IS300 and supra conversions. Would love to mix and match on the Z car. The hydraulic clutch spacers makeup for the adapter, just need the starter addressed. Greg

Tim, did you get your bellhousing yet?

very impressive. Everything that company does has been top notch and priced reasonable.

I would be in on one. I was toying with the same idea as you. So would the RB26 work if holes were slotted? I don't care about SFI rating. I also thought it was pretty close and willing to try one out. If I had a T56 ready I would have tried it out. I actually had one of the RB26 bellhousings in the shopping cart of Summit and backed out at the last minute. I keep holding out for Hokes conversion kit. I am parts manager of the largest Infiniti dealership in the nation so I can get ahold of the CD009 easily. I'd rather use a GM 6 speed as more stuff is available including mechanical speedo.

I just ordered a set as well. Little pricey, but very cool. I also think I can modify them easier to move the engine back an inch. Every little bit will help with fan clearance!

close. That kit is for the 2.36 offset brakes. Our cars have short offsets, closer to 1.9 inches. You need to use the parking brake kit from the 2 inch offset bronco kit. http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdRear.aspx?itemno=140-13733-DR You can only use the parking brake kit portion, unless you have 5 lug hubs. The rotors that come in the kit are multiple pattern 5 lug ones. No room to redrill for 4 lug. I used the wilwood "blanks" instead. http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-6868 You can also get drilled and slotted versions. I was wanting just slotted, but couldn't find it. Definitely not a bolt on kit, but totally doable.

Been working on this for awhile. I previously had 81 280zx discs which worked fine, but were plain, ugly, nonvented, and the parking brake cable routing was poor. I have looked at all the popular conversions. while they all work fine, they floating caliper style definitely aren't sexy. All the fixed calipers either have no parking brake (unsafe and inconvenient) or have a separate spot caliper that is not my preference. There is the one "rally style" modified wilwood out there, but I have no idea if it actually works well. I wanted to go with the internal parking brake inside the rotor hat. Very clean and effective. I started with a Wilwood parking brake kit originally designed for the old Ford Broncos. They have a very similar backing plate to hub offset as our Z cars and the bore diameter and bolt pattern is close to bolt to the rear spindle. I could not use the whole kit as the rotor bolt patterns are wrong and the caliper piston sizes are wrong as well for the lighter Z car. Clearances worked out really well. I actually mounted them upside down so the parking brake lever is on the bottom. This places it almost exactly in the same spot as the factory ones for the old drum brakes so the routing is perfect. Have to make a new bracket to mount the cables, but I can use the same mounting holes as factory. I ended up ordering wilwood "blank" rotors so I could drill the correct bolt pattern. I also had to order their blank centering rings as they don't offer those already cut for the nissan hub diameter. Luckily my father in law has an awesome lathe and knocked that out quickly. This allows the rotors to stay hubcentric like they need to. A 5 lug conversion would have made it able to order off the shelf rotors, but I am not ready for new rims yet. 12 inch rotors .81 thick, vented of course. Nice fixed caliper that will match my 6 pistons front ones pretty well. Backside view. Had to do a lug mount as I couldn't find a radial mount for anything smaller than a 13 inch rotor. Radial mount does open up more caliper choices, but I just see no reason for the extra work at this time. You can also see I am still running the old ZX CV shafts. Did this 20 years ago before all the modern motorsports and stuff came about. Still working good. Next step is to start finish up the front. I have a set of JSK rotor adapters so that made life easier. Picked 12 inch 1.25 thick slotted rotors. Later on I can always go to a 13 inch, but it would be way overkill (as if this isn't already?) Already fitted 6 piston wilwoods by using C5 corvette radial caliper mounts. Still need to redrill and add a small spacer to make it perfect.

Ed Pink has been doing some of the work on the newman racecars owned by Adam Carolla. Definitely well known in the domestic world.

Bang for the buck? That braille battery is $600. Promising 3 to 5 years longer than a lead battery, but it only has a 1 year warranty and 2 year prorated "available" after that. My cheesy autozone or walmart batteries have at least 3 year free replacements. I would bet that is why someone would go a little bit larger than a stock z car battery. As you say for daily drivers it is no problem to keep the battyer charged and ready to go. On the flip side the lithium batteries are very cool. I keep a small lithium jumpbox in my daily truck and it works awesome. I can agree they are great money no object batteries, but calling them a great bang for the buck is a little silly. To address the original post. On my car I added a battery tray using rivnuts to the factory tray. That way I can use regular hold downs, and had an additional tray to protect the cars paint. Greg

2 things, First, you think the guy filed the claim before the video came out? Very likely. The vid makes it look like he was playing with himself or the radio while driving and ran off the road. Unfortunately a lake happened to be there. When it came time to file a claim he probably made the fatal error of making up a less embarassing excuse than I ran my million dollar car into a lake by mistake. Second, the policy he had was a classic car policy with restrictions. Car was insured for travelling from show to show or display only. Not for running errands around town or cruising. Basically mileage restrictions as a way to keep policy premiums low. If you never drive the car the chances of paying a claim are low. On my collector cars I choose collector insurance, but without the restrictions. I pay a little more, but can drive my cars anywhere. Still not covered if they get stolen in movie theater parking lot. Looks like this guy gambled and lost. With the questioneable loan for the car I think they are introducing fraud, but I think there are much better ways to commit fraud than driving your own car into a lake. Guilty of bad decisions for sure, though.

All you need to worry about is having a decent tune to get the engine fired quickly and cleanly. I am assuming the engine builder put plenty of assembly lube on everything. Pull plugs and crank motor over to get oil pressure quickly. Make sure injectors are not firing and flooding the motor by unplugging ECM fuse or injectors. Once you have oil pressure put everything back together and fire it up. I prefer to run until it reaches operating temp, then drain and change oil and filter and go have fun.

Two people can do it. As easy as the suspension is to remove at that point you may leave it all in and jsut remove it at the shop. Three nuts on each strut and 4 bolts on the crossmember and the tension rod nuts and the front falls away. The rear is even easier. I would buy the rotisserie anyway. If you are wanting to blast the bottom it will be so much easier. Think of how much tme you are going to spend on your back restoring that underside. You will get at leasy 80% of the cost of the rotisserie back when you sell it so think of it as a rental. I have rented mine out to local enthusiasts which allows me to recover some of the costs and I don't have to store it.

Don't waste your money on this panel. It is almost perfectly flat and the two pads for the bumper mount are not stamped deep enough at all. We had to slice and dice the panel to get it to curve in both directions to fit the car. The bumper pads had to be cut on three sides to allow the panel to conform. Other than the stamping impression in the middle you are better off starting with a flat piece of sheetmetal for $20. To add insult to injury I found a supplier $100 cheaper than Motorsport for this piece. http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html In this case I got it fast, but it was not cheap or good. My bodyman is teaching me lots of tricks, however.