deja

Very nice car, very nice video, love the music.

I guess that filler strip confused me.

I certainly would. That tank is not the easiest thing to balance. You shouldn't have to move it too much to get at the bumper bolts. Keep an eye on the fuel lines so they don't get stressed.

A gallon of gas weighs about 6 pounds. Doesn't your tank have a drain plug? Mine '77 did.

With enough fabrication you can fit any Z bumper on a 280Z. You will have to make or modify brackets though. That looks like a 260Z bumper to me but I could be wrong.

Thanks guys.

That is a good deal. But everytime I have tried to use one of those Car Craft coupons HF was out of stock and never did get re-supplied.

Great. Did you put loctite on the bolts?

Wow!!! I am a huge Jewel fan and didn't expect to be impressed. But your wife has a major talent there.

Just curious, why are you going to the LT1? I switched for a more steeetable ride, and better gas milage.

LOL, I thought I was the only one taping extensions together! My main breaker bar is the door crash bar from the '94 Z28 I used as my doner car.

I wonder if the exhaust leak was causing the popping. Either way I'm glad that is gone. But I doubt the 3.90 is the main cause of your poor mileage. But if the exhaust leak was affecting the readings of the O2 sensor that could cause the PCM to get confused and force it to add fuel.

Cool, I have been through that one, totally lost 2 of the three nuts on the passenger side. I'm not real thrilled with Sanderson's collector mating. I have gone to Mr. Gasket copper collector gaskets.

There is a massive write up and a few picts at http://dejavideo.net/transplant.html

Here's some good LT1 sites you should review. http://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LT1.html http://www.ws6.com/faq/4_2.htm#ch4_2aw and the best one of all http://shbox.com/page/index.html [url=http://shbox.com/page/index.html][/url]

OH yeah just in case you haven't researched the LT1. When you're looking for the engine get at least a '94 or newer so you can program the computer from a laptop. The '93s are speed density engines and have some tuning concerns. Good engines, its just the later ones with a MAF are better. A '95 or newer has the better vented optispark but other than that there isn't much difference. Camaro/Firebird engine have aluminum heads and a bit more HP stock that the big Chevy/Buick cars and Corvettes have 25 more HP than the Z28. TransAM. I ran a 115K '94 Z28 LT1 for 10K without problems before building my new engine.

You really need to be sure the structural part of the car is sound before you start making big power. I mean the frame members, floor, brakes and suspension need to be able to support that big power. This doesn't necessarily mean you need a roll cage or even beefed up frame connectors but the basics have to be right. Get rid of any rusted metal in the unibody part of the car. The front fenders, hatch and hood and paint can wait.

I ordered off EBay once to save a little, but it took forever to arrive. Every other time I just went to POR15.com. I think they are in Florida so since I live in Georgia shipping is fast.

That 10" rim will probably put the tires into the fenders. I have some Weld Wheel 9" with 4.5" backspace and 235x15 drag radial that won't fit under my stock fenders. You would probably need some flares.

Save your money for the engine swap. $400 is only the tip of the iceberg for a LT1 swap. There are a lot of other things you will need before you have a drivable car. The body work can wait as long as the basic structure of the car is strong.

From what I understand to fit in the stock wheel well you need slicks 26/15x8.0 with 4.5" backspace. Weld Wheel makes exactly the wheel you need.

I have them but I cut off the part that runs up the fenders.

Grumpyvette, has stats but he has 225/60/14 not 225/50/14. BTW datsun71 did you change the speedometer gear for the 3.7 rear rear? In other words are you sure your speedometer accurate? Looks like you might need some taller tires, like 26" slicks.