deja

Yep, I don't have a welder or have never welded anything. I have an eye issue that prevents me from doing that. A problem attempting to do a lot in this hobby. There is a really good custom muffler shop very close so I had it towed over there to have the work done. When I got the car the exhaust exited in front of the rear wheels. Very noisey and the fumes were a bit much.

This was sitting in my driveway, no acceleration here. I had my video camera sitting just to the right of the dual tail pipes. The engine is a GEN 1 350. I don't know the cam specs of this engine, wish I did. Running a 725 Holley and stock Chevy ramshorn manifold to 2 1/4" pipes through twin turbo mufflers. http://www.dejavideo.net/280z8/280z8-sound.mp3

Even with the low quality recorder that is one badass sounding Chevy

That is one fine looking ride. Sounds like you've got some work ahead of you to get it right, but its all doable and will be worth it in the end. You're gonna have a very unique ride that you can be very proud to drive. I too bought my car sight unseen and was led astray on several things. The "header leak" turned out to be broken headers. The interior was totally trashed, he pretty much skated around that one. The wiring was very scary and the transmission while it is a 5 speed its from a truck with 1st gear being next to useless. The engine runs very rich and uses a ton of oil. The brakes and suspension needed totally rebuilt. But the body and paint are damn near perfect thank goodness, I am no body man. Its taken me over a year to get to running decent and redo the interior. Then of course I've decided to upgrade to LT1 and a 4L60! Oh well, playing with it is why I got it in the first place.

V8Z, I have that JTR "Swapping Fuel-injected Motors" book if you want to take a look at it. I had a TPI setup but never got around to installing it becuase I got a deal on a '94 z28 wreck and desided to go LT1 instead. Sold the TPI on Ebay a month or so ago.

I just read this on a LT1 tech page: You have to bleed the coolant hose just over the water pump. There is a bleeder screw in the middle of the hose. let the car get around normal temp. then turn loosen the bleeder screw and let the pressure release until you have nothing but coolant coming out.

My fan is electric. But I agree about going JTR. I am going that way too when I convert to my LT1 setup.

I have 4" from the radiator the front of the pulley, 7 1/4 from the radiator mount to the pulley. Fan shroud 3" thick and is bolted to the stock Datsun radiator. Fan stick out of the shroud about 1/4" there is about 1/2" clearance from the fan to the pulley.

I'll see if I can get some picts of my setup for you. It does look like it wouldn't fit with the bracket I made but since it mounts below the water pump center it fit. I am running a stock 280Z radiator too, if your radiator is thicker that might be the problem.

I have a Scarab setup in my 280Z. I am running an electric fan the center of which actually lines up just below the center of the water pump. I am running a short neck water pump, if your engine has a long neck pump you won't even come close to the fan fitting.

Thanks, and thanks for the links. I had found another one but this one has better explanations.

Ok that makes sense. I just went out and measured what would be 40 offset and you are correct, looks like the wheel would be inboard from the fender about 2", not the look I want for sure. right now my fronts are 14" - 1/2" outside and the rears 1/4" - 3/4" outside. Using those charts looks like I maybe should be looking for a 4" backspace or 0 offset.

Cool, this is from http://www.por15store.com/page/por15/PROD/Topcoats/EE website for their engine enamel "Our Enamels withstand temperatures up to 450 degrees F."

I think I have done this right but I'm not sure. The wheels I have now (14x7) stick out some from the fenders, not that much but I'd like to get new wheels (15x7) anyway and would like to have them tucked under the fenders. I measured my wheels to get these dimensions, hope I did that right. The pict on the left is my present wheel and the one on the right is what I think would be a 41mm offset. So assuming my calculations are right can I get away with using a wheel with a 41 mm offset on a 280Z with stock suspension, no coilovers, no lowering springs.

Thanks guys, that's what I was afraid of. I'll get some real caliper paint.

Just how hot does a disc brake caliper get in street use? I want to paint my calipers and have some leftover red Por15 engine enamel which says its good to 450 degrees. Do calipers get hotter than that?

After checking what I have, they appear to be 280ZXT shafts. There are 6 bolts in 3 groups of 2, like the ones in this pict. Thanks for the help.

Congrats. Yep, there is nothing like big V8 torque in a lite car!

Cool. We did get one one but it there was no way the second one would fit. We found MM website with his adapters but he still hasn't answered my request for information. No biggy, I decided to stick with the U-joints anyway since I'm not racing my Z and will be running a stock Z28 LT1. Of course that cold always change, LOL.

OK I'm totally confused now. I will check these out tonight, take some picts, maybe then I'll know what I have. They did bolt up to my 280Z so I assum they are not 300zx???? So it seems more likely they are 300ZXT????? I'm confused about what you mean by "after flipping cage on the driver's side outer CV".

Any idea of what he paid for the cv axels? As it turns out I have a set I won't be using and will probbaly sell them. Also do you know how to tell if they are 280zx or 300zx? The front hubs I have came from a 300ZX so I'm thinking the rear cv axels might also be 300zx.

Thanks, I guess I'll try selling them.