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HybridZ

Z-Gad

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Everything posted by Z-Gad

  1. If you are seriously debating it, I say go to the 9". It is safer and you won't have to worry about breaking rear end parts. I haven't had an axle, diff, or stub axle break to date, but I know it is a matter of time before something lets go....
  2. Welcome to my world... I am continuing to use the solid mount on the front, but coupled with the R/T style urethane mount from above... My launches are nowhere near as hard as yours and JNJ's though... Mike
  3. Jeesh, that engine bay looks familiar LOL Lookin good.
  4. No way, that has to be photo-shopped... I don't believe you.. j/k!! Can't wait to see it in person
  5. Hmmm... maybe I should stick with the R200 and not go to the R230 as I had planned... I haven't experienced any failures like this with the R200 and Z31 CV's (knock on wood)
  6. Nice Ivo, but I would have thought an EVO would have been more suitable.. I kid, I kid!! nice ride
  7. OK there is not a particular part number for the headstuds... they are an ARP application for the Ford big blocks (i.e. 351). They are under the ARP 4000-series, and are 1/2" by 4.5" long and sold individually directly from ARP. You'll also want the smallest nuts they offer, as there is not any room for a socket. Machine work was also required down into the lifter bores of the cylider head to clearance for the studs/nuts. That's the info I was given... Mike
  8. Well, I am not coming from the NE, but would like to hook up with my HybridZ bretheren... any plans of a HybridZ meeting during the convention... See you all soon, Mike
  9. Crap... I forgot to ask my machinist which headstuds he used... I apologize... I'll call him tomorrow (saturday) Regards, mike
  10. Hieno!!! It looks like Kimi's old Z!! I have an early series 1 71 240z in Finland as well...(it is stock though) Regards, Mike
  11. An old trick a guy told me was to use some soft springs on the brake caliper rods to keep the pads from dragging on the rotors... He swore by it... Another thing you may want to try is some headlight covers to reduce drag.
  12. Spoke with my engine builder this morning, and he echoed the Beryllium seats, as they have a higher copper content and will dissipate heat better than your average seat. A asked him if "pinning" the seat was necessary, and he said that as long as it was machined properly, it was not necessary... He also asked about your cooling lines for the rear of the engine, as those cylinders tend to run the hottest being the furthest away from the water pump... Mike
  13. Nice looking ride... The more I see the SM 002's on the Z's, the more I like them... Kudos, Mike
  14. Thanks Justin. I am interested in a 15x10... otherwise I would consider them Regards, Mike
  15. Looks awesome!! Any chance you cold do me a favor and measure the inner diameter of the rim? I am looking for a 15" wheel that will clear my brake calipers... I require a 14" inner diameter to clear the Wilwood rears... Mike
  16. Nice numbers.. What turbo are you running? It looks like a GT42 or larger due to the power coming on at 5500+
  17. You know, you'd think that, but it is surprisingly stable even at 150+. I think the fact that I am still using the independent rear suspension, allows the car to drive like a sports car. I mean, when the tires start to spin, it is very predictable and easy to drive. Aero mods are in my near future, but so far, so good.
  18. Sorry for the late reply... With the TH400 the car acts like a normal auto car on the street. It cruises at 70mph and 3000 rpm's (due to the 3.36 final drive). I got around 20-21 mpg a couple of weeks ago when I drove from Orlando to Clearwater Florida (~ 2 hour drive each way). I run a 4200 stall and launch off of the footbrake with a 100 shot. That pass was done with 29-30 psi and a 100 shot. The car still has more in it, as I intend to run 35-36 psi and a 150 shot. I am waiting for the weather to cool off a little, and perhaps a "special occasion" to turn it up
  19. Very nice!! I look forward to seeing more of this car
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