Z-Gad

Excellent pump, but notoriously loud... I am sure you won't mind!! Probably don't have to tell you this, but make sure you have good wiring running to the Weldon pump (atleast 10 gauge) via a relay, as it will require plenty of juice on the big end

BTW, it sounds like your fuel pump may not be keeping up w/ demand. I had similar symptoms as you are having, added twin pumps and a voltage booster and viola... solved the problem. Your fuel pressure should not drop off like that, but stay at a 1:1 increase as boost increases. Be careful next weekend ... don't want you to hurt your motor. Mike

Hate to say "told ya so", but "TOLD YA SO!!" Let's see some times !!!!

TTT kit is installed in my car. It is up on jackstands as i finish up loose ends. It should be back on the ground by the end of next week when I will begin tuning w/ the new engine management. I am using the Armada differential (2.94 ratio) with Z32 LSD installed. Pictures and updates will follow early in the week. Regards, Mike

Although the 1/8 MPH is slower than you would have if the car was working properly, 140mph and 36 mph in the second half of the track says... WOW!!

If the car isn't street driven much, then a high stall converter would work, but you end up with much more slip. If your car sees highway miles, then the constant slip of a high stall converter creates a lot of heat as well. I don't know if I would call it a crutch...perhaps just an alternate method. I guess in you case, highway miles probably aren't going to happen much. As far as expense, well, why stop now

I just had my Greddy T88H manifold repaired. It cracked between the runner collector and the flange. In fact, it didn't look like it was welded there very well at all. All of the expanding and contracting of the heat cycles did it in. It may have been cracked for some time, but finally got bad enough that my performance decreased. It was the oddest thing. The car would build boost and then fall on it's face as boost dropped off for no apparent reason. The crack wasn't noticeable and I could find nothing wrong until my machinist sprayed a little soapy water around the seams and hit it with compressed air. I took the manifold over to Mazworx and he said that he has welded on a few Greddy/HKS manifolds. People just tend not to talk about it.

Very nice looking manifold!

Wow Clint, that thing is a beast!!! I bet it feels good to finally get back in the driver's seat at the track (wonder what that feels like as it has been a year for me now as well). I second the NOS. It will only take a second to get the turbo spooled with a small shot, even with the 300 stall. I was only getting around 3000 RPM's on the footbrake until I tickled it with a little spray, and it just came alive! Mike

Warren, your internet family is thinking of you and your family's loss...senseless, just senseless...

Nice looking car...

Awesome Mike!! It looks a lot different than i remember it the last time (red) Did you find another 5-speed to run, or is this still the 88-89 5-speed gearbox? Kudos!!

That just looks MENACING!! Look forward to seeing more results!! Mike

I still have the stock auto valve body in my TH400. I simply had it refreshed by a local transmission guy I trust. He added aftermarket clutches/sprag and did a general refresh and sent me on my way for $550-$600 if I remember correctly... I am still on the footbrake with a 4200 stall. I feel your pain regarding the spousal resistance LOL Jap tin has a point, you may only need 2 gears and it'd save you a BUNCH of weight going to the PG. I chose to keep 3 gears since the car sees plenty of around town and road miles.

Good to see you lurking around Mike

8500 is my redline so to speak... I shift around 8000 or so. As for my TH400, I have upgraded clutches and sprag. The TH400 is such a strong trans that i will survive just fine with those alone, although the lightweight drums and bearings should create less drag on the driveline. I gues it depends on how fast you want to go Doug, I'm glad I could be part of your inspiration I mean sickness LOL!!! The power potential from these motors is just unbelievable, even in stock form... enjoy the build and if there is anything I can do to help, let me know, Mike

Bummer Jeff, you've come a long way with the car in the last year... Good luck with the teardown and build... Mike

Where should I start.. Bottom end is stock crank, Eagle rods, Ross 8:1 pistons, stock metal headgasket, 1/2 inch Ford headstuds, +1mm stainless Ferrea valves, Crower springs and retainers, shimless buckets, Crower 280 cams, tons of portwork, Greddy T88H manifold Greddy Type C wastegate, Precision PT-88 turbo, 4" dp and exhaust, custom Thagard intercooler, 3" turbo to intercooler, 3.5" intercooler to intake, 4" throttlebody, Veilside copy manifold with tons of portwork done also (it flowed like crap before the portwork), 1200 cc injectors, twin GSL-392 Walbros with voltage booster, -10 a/n line to engine bay, splitting to 2 -8 a/n lines feeding each end of the rail with -6 a/n center return, Electromotive TEC2 previously (installing a TEC3 now) ... Mike

Are you looking for 1000 at the wheels or crankshaft... That is a nice number to throw out there, but I would take into consideration what you intend to do with the car before you throw a bunch of parts together. The guys at Titan are good people and very knowledgeable when it comes to the 2JZ engines, but they are a business first and will be happy to sell you anything you want, even if it is not what will work best in your application... With a 1000 rwhp 2JZ, don't expect to have much power below 5500 rpm's. Somewhere between 5500 and 6000, you'll have an on-off switch for your power band. I am not trying to pursuade you NOT to build a 1000 hp 2JZ, in fact that is where I hope to be in the next few months, just wanting you to get EXACTLY what you want out of your 2JZGTE Z Anyway, I don't see pistons and rods on your list... I believe rods are highly recommended for 800+ rwhp, or are you looking at crankshaft hp... I am not too familiar w/ the GTK series turbos, but you may need something in the 76mm or larger to reach a 1000 rwhp goal. I hope to have mine back on the road with in the next month and to be able to start tuning with the 88mm turbo Chassis stiffening, rear end and GOOD BRAKES are a must as well. Going fast is great, but you have to be able to stop!! Enjoy the build, I enjoyed mine ALMOST as much as I enjoy driving it... Regards, Mike

Very nice. I look forward to seeing some times

Congrats Bartman... I need to log on more often... Maybe for the fall issue

Excellent IVO!!! Keep at it

Unfortunately, I believe the automatic IS300 has a 4.09 rear ratio (atleast mine does) ... The manual version is slightly taller maybe a 3.90...

I dropped off the rotors and front hubs at the machine shop yesterday to have a spacer made. I'll update this thread when I have more info... Mike