Z-Gad

Thanks Austin, My return is a braided -8 AN hose , so there is nowhere for it to kink. I had some smoke at startup, but convinced myself that it was the rings needing to seat after the motor sat for 2 years and only had around 500 miles since rebuild. The blown turbo seal explains a lot.

I bled the mc prior to the rest of the system, but I will willingly go back and try it again .. anything to not have to pull the MC off again. LOL!! I pulled the turbo off tonight and it was leaking, no pouring out the rear oil seal. It is going to take a little while until the exhaust is clear of oil residue. The inside of the DP is coated. Well, one step forward, 2 steps back.

BPR6ES gapped to .035 w/ T-72 turbo at 17 psi on pump gas... no problems and have run the same 6 plugs for atleast a year now and > 15000 miles

latest update... Good news: The car moved under its own power today for the first time!! I was able to back it down the driveway, allow it to idle in the street as I topped off the tranny fluid on level ground and then pulled it back up into the garage, all under it's own power!! I felt proud. Bad news: The turbo started dripping oil out the turbine housing. I am afraid that I will have to pull the turbo off tomorrow and have new oil seals put in. I am also having problems getting a brake pedal. I installed a rebuilt 15/16 brake master cylinder, but after 3 hours of bleeding brakes and fixing all leaks in the system, all signs point to it. I may try doing another round of bleeding before pulling it though. It is a real PIA as you all probably know. I HATE bleeding brakes. I think I would rather go to the dentist!! There is still other piddling things to do. I still have to hook up brake lights and headlights, but all other lighting is working now. I want to bundle up the wiring and install the passenger's seat and some interior pieces as well. It is getting closer every day

It is no fun and very messy, but possible as I have done it too

WOW, talk about impressive...

Take off the inlet to the turbo and try to move the shaft side to side and forward/aft. If you have movement (just a tiny bit side to side is normal), but if you can really move it, then a rebuild may be in your future. Does the turbo have a 360* thrust collar installed? I went through a couple of hybrid turbos before having a 360 thrust collar installed on the last rebuild. It seems that turbos don't live too long above 15-16 psi without one.

Yep, that's a T04 P-trim on center housing. I am running a .70 a/r and would prefer a .58 as well. I need a tangential style housing though. I just was outbid on one on Ebay since I could not be near the 'puter when the auction ended!! Grrr ;-(

Although I have not run the adaptors, my 16x7 0 offest (I figure +40mm offset on your honda wheels and a 40mm adaptor still yields a 0 offset) wheels have 245 width tires on them and I had to roll the lips in and slightly 'persuade' the wheel arches out to allow for clearance.

My condolences Pete... Glad to hear you are OK. It has been my experience that in a lighter impact accident, you won't even feel the accident until the next day or two. I was wondering if you felt a little stiffer or more sore today...

Looking great Austin. Bummer to hear about the pistons still... I hate having to wait on others to complete a project. Good luck getting things sorted out though, mike

Check for vacuum leaks at all connections, hoses and around your injector seals as well. They'll cause all kinds of odd idle/air/fuel issues.

I'm not worthy!!

Well, spent today going through 3-4 headlight switches before I found one which I was happy with. (read : got to work properly) I now have taillights and dash lights. I will tackle the headlights and turn signals tomorrow. Hopefully I'll be able to knock out the brakes this weekend, so I'll be able to start tuning. I may be able to get it to the track Wednesday for the first shake down passes. I am an optomist you know Motor is wired in with an Electromotive TEC II Forrest - contact James Thagard http://www.speedshopthagard.com/ for intercooler specs. Mobile huh? when is the event Gabe?

Thanks Pyro, that's what I thought... I think that top ring is 1.5mm on the 81-83 and the top ring on the 75-80 is 2mm, giving the ringland between the top and middle ring an extra .5mm in the 81-83.

Turbo pistons have different size ringlands. Check the part numbers for ring sets for an early dished N42 block and then for a later turbo F54 block. The sizes are different, and the dished turbo piston has a thicker ringland than the dished non-turbo piston. Also, if you put a mechanical gauge on there and not try to read the crappy stocker, you'll find that stock boost is 6-7 psi.

BIG Thanks to Rick Bowers (Speeder) for coming out to my place again!! Today was the day that the 2JZ 240z came to life!! After topping off all the fluid levels, correcting all of my 'little' mistakes while preparing the car to start (forgetting to tighten all the braided fuel lines, plumbing the FPR backwards-DOH!!, wiring the Painless ignition switch incorrectly, etc), we adjusted the fuel pressure, turned the fuel pump off, cold cranked the engine until we had oil pressure, crossed our fingers, turned the fuel pump back on, turned the key and varoom!! The car fired up on the first try!! The engine has sat for nearly 2 years, so a little smoking occured as the car warmed up but the longer it ran, the less smoke we had. Much of it was fuel mixture and rings needing to reseat after the long hiatus. It sounded amazing and Rick and I were jumping around like little kids when it first fired Anyway, I will have to chase some wiring issues as the lights, turn signals. and various electrical gauges are not working properly. I'll start w/ those gremlins tomorrow, but today was all about the car running.

350Z requiires premium fuel.

Agreed, keeping detonation at bay is the ticket.

The P90 head had a mild port and polish. The valve guides were cut, bowl area was opened up, and valves were unshrouded out to the 91mm gasket. The valves were also stainless, undercut and swirl polished. There weren't any high sharp edges or high spots in the combustion chamber, and the chamber area was polished as well. I did suffer from a poor cam choice though... It was a pretty decent head. On a side note, the new project head has been professionally ported and sonic tested repeatedly (was ported, tested for thickness, ported again, for 9 weeks, until maximum flow was achieved). The head is an E88, has 1.65" intake ports, uses oversize 5/16 (very narrow stem) Chevy valves, and worked chamber area. It was used on a race motor back in the 80's and has been sitting since. An old racer buddy of mine reluctantly parted with it, but knows it is going to a good home. I will compensate for the high compression head with a significant dish in the piston.

Where is your boost referenced? If it is off of the turbo, then try referencing it from the manifold or vise versa.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84860

Again, not exactly a straight away answer, but my old 3.1 liter forged stroker was a about an 8.7:1 compression motor (I did not cc the head, so the exact # is unknown). I could run no more than ~10 psi without getting detonation on 93 octane. I did run 21 psi on 110 octane without any problems and could have run more I am sure. I know many of you hear the newer cars running 8.5:1 or 9:1 compression ratios on turbo cars, but that is newer technology (4 valve heads, cross flow , etc). My point is that the L series motor as we know isn't the best design. Having both the intake and exhaust on the same side and all the heat that is generated under the manifold, hampers performance to say the least. My next forged motor (currently in it's preliminary stage, as I am about to order pistons) will be more along the lines of 7.5:1 or maybe even a little less. The lower your compression (within reason), the more boost you can run without detonating on lower octane fuel. The additional boost more than makes up for a slight loss in compression and off boost throttle response with a significant increase in horsepower, in my opinion anyway. If your plan is quick throttle response, are not planning to run a lot of boost on pump gas, or are going for better fuel consumption, then by all means a 8.5 - 9.0 compression L28 turbo motor is great. If you would like to safely run higher boost on pump gas, don't mind sacrificing throttle response for more daily driven horsepower, then go low compression All I know is that I can make significantly more power with my stock 7.5:1 compression 2.8 liter long block by running more boost on pump gas than I could make with my 8.7:1 compression 3.1 liter forged stroker motor on pump gas where I was limited to that 10 psi. just my .02

Let's see Jose...off the top of my head expected costs... L28 turbo long block / donor car $300-$1000 ... depending on running condition. Clutch ~ $350 for a decent one upgraded turbo T3/T4 hybrid ~ $600 - $800 Downpipe and exhaust ~ $400-$500 Fuel lines and fuel pump ~ $200 - $300 Upgraded injectors ~ $250 Intercooler, connectors and piping ~ $500 - $700 for something efficient Engine management (assuming you want to get rid of the crummy factory AFM and electronics) ~ $800 for a used system on up, unless you can wire up a megasquirt system) and probably figure another $500 for odds and ends that you will want/need (like gauges, hoses, clamps, wires, filters, etc.) All of that is just the go fast stuff, it does not include handling, braking etc... As you can see, all that stuff adds up quickly. I mean, it CAN be done for much less, but you are stuck fighting with inferior components, lacking adjustability, efficiency and longevity. If you do things right the first time, you'll be able to enjoy the car instead of enjoying working on it all the time...

Awesome, it's great to hear that is family was safe as well!!