Z-Gad

I had contacted the seller of these headers and he was kind enough to send me a few photos. The price was very reasonable for the piece, but my $ is going elsewhere at this time... Anyway, Rick was kind enough to host a couple of pics of these for me. I would like to see someone on the board get them so I can see them in person someday. The seller's name is Wayne Hennebury and his email is wayne@matrixmotorco.com I was going to post these in the for sale section, but would like to hear some discussion on them since you don't see them everyday!! http://rick.thebowersplace.com/ZGad/P280ZX2T.JPG http://rick.thebowersplace.com/ZGad/P280ZXTT.JPG

Thanks for posting the #'s and the graph. Very impressive

http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/ext_pump.html

Lookin Good Charles!!

I feel ya brother!!

Well, I didn't dyno the car before I went from the hybrid turbo to the T-66, but I was able to cut a few 1.8x and even 1 1.79 60' with the hybrid turbo. At 19 psi w/ the T-66, it made 412 lb/ft of torque and started breaking the driver's side axle. Anyway, I am not using Ross's adaptors, but a custom axle for the viscous LSD unit utilizing the outer 280zxt CV housing and the 280zxt companion flanges. It is the outer CV housing (or cage) that I have broken twice now. It has just exploded off the line... It may be that the tripod sits further to the inboard side of the cage (weaker area toward the diff) with these custom shafts, and that is why it is busting on me...

It is not the diff, but the shafts. Actually, for me it has been the outer cv cage that breaks apart. I have had a 1" band welded to the outside of the cage now, I just have to get the car back on the road to test it out!!

Regarding the oil...start the car, let it idle, and get the new oil circulating, drain it, change the filter and do it again. Continue to change it until you feel comfortable that you have gotten as much water out as you can. I believe that all the problems you had weren't due to detonation, but to the head gasket being a little crooked. It only has to be a little off to totally screw things up and missing an alignment dowel will do that in a heartbeat...

If I was in the mindset not to pull the bottom end apart (which I think I would do if there was a grey milky oil...) then atleast run a few oil changes of regular oil and change the filter a few times before doing the mobil one. Remember that water got into the turbo, bearing journals, oil pump, everywhere... Anyone familiar with the "engine flush" additatives? Maybe that would be an option as well. You really want to get all the water out, but that is not possible unless you take it apart, so atleast get as much as you can... Glad to hear you are keeping it though. All the crap you have gone through is a learning curve and you are now ahead of the game so to speak...

There are not too many street cars, if any, which have the turbo you are looking for, but you may want to try a John Deere farm tractor, or a turbo diesel truck.

Right on James!!

I like having my German Shepherd on duty when we are not around. It may not keep all the thieves out, but hearing him will make them think twice

Hmmm...if I am reading this correctly, then if the heater core is bypassed, then you could plug the pipe coming from the rear of the head (#6 cylinder) and plug the pipew on the inlet of the front cover to eliminate a recirculation of the hot water making the cooling system more effective. Is this correct???

I was able to mount the T-5 into my 73 by just slotting the diff mount holes and sliding the mount forward. I was also able to use the stock uncut T-5 driveshaft, but I understand that this is a rarity as they are usually too long and have to be shortened by and inch or 2 (just something to think about).

You may want to contact Rick Bowers on this one I believe he has a similar turbo to the one you are considering, however, he is taking advantage of a full T4 turbine wheel in a hogged out T3 housing (I believe). Your set-up sounds like it is on point and the Spearco is the best bang for the buck intercooler out there (1080 CFM).

I was breaking the 280zx outer CV housing with less then 400RWHP. I think you should probably address that one first...

http://zcarparts.com/

I tend to think of the worst, and hope for the best... Worst case ... pressure build up due to a blockage in the cooling passages (usually rust or block sealer in the block), or ... water pump came apart inside the front cover, engine overheated due to no circulation, head gasket blew into a water passage and pressurized the hose causing it to blow Best case ... faulty weak hose

Take the block apart and have it sonic tested to see how thick the cylinder walls are. Then you will know for sure how far over you can take it safely... Mike

SU's and mechanical fuel pump are working great on my 3 liter daily driver 240z.

Thanks!! That was the one I was talking about...

here ya go tony... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=33617&item=2459592889&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT

I had issues with the rear sway bar when I swapped to CV's. I ended up picking up a shorter bolt for the sway bar to clear the CV shaft. I believe Rick Bowers did the same, as he and I this conversation...

Remember those are 30 year old gauges...They weren't that accurate when they were new. Just buy a cheap mechanical gauge at you local auto parts store and T into the oil feed. They are usually < $20. Even if you have to change the pump/spring at a later date, it will give you piece of mind to know where your pressure sits.