Z-Gad

cool 8)

Fuel pressure for the stock injectors should be 36 psi with the vacuum line disconnected (pinched, or plugged). It sounds like you have too much fuel pressure still...

Well, I wasn't quite 400rwhp, but getting close, and dropped my 60' from a best of 2.10x to a best of 1.79x by just switching form the open rear to the LSD. It translated to ~ .45 improvement in 1/4 mile. 8)

It will keep the intake charge as cool as possible, rather than routing it back across the hot radiator after the intercooler....

Nope, didn't throw any codes. I pulled the MAF, visually compared it to one that I knew was good and noted the differences. Primarily, the little "electrode" in the center of the MAF was closed against the center piece of the MAF where in the good one, there was a gap. I replaced the MAF w/ a salvage yard piece and VIOLA ... fixed!!

I had an 86 300zx turbo with the exact same symptoms. It was a bad MAF (Mass Air Flow Meter). I replaced it with another unit and the problem was fixed.

BEAUTIFUL!! 8)

Double check your oil pump drive spindle to make sure it is aligned properly. I have run into 2 motors which have been rebuilt (by others) in the last month where the oil pump spindle was a tooth off. It really screws up the performance.

When you replaced the main bearings, you didn't replace the rear seal again? Hmmm.. Anyway, You may want to try checking the oil pan bolts again. I remember having an issue once with the ones in the rear of the pan which go through those metal "supports" (I guess that is what they are), that is if you used them...

The best 60' I managed to cut to date is a 1.79x with the same BFG's. I was launching around 5k or so and ran them between 16-18 psi. My burn outs consisted of only a few seconds as I could not power brake with the rear disk brakes (didn't want to stress them out) and I was running an LSD. Unfortunately, I started breaking rear end stuff and had to begin babying it off the line... Anyway, 12.4 on the stocker is truly amazing!! Keep representing!!

Me likes the "muscle car" stuff That Z is hot. Love the Torque thrusts as well.

Very nice!!

I picked up injector connectors from the local salvage yard. I just cut them off the wiring harness and spliced them in. Good luck w/ the MSnS install...

Nice move on the mounts. It also reinforces the frame, welding them to the TC support. Daddy Like!! How did you get around the steering shaft interferance? u-joint? Thanks for the pics, Mike

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479500422&category=50454

Wonderful News!! Did you do the engine mounts so that they can be reproduced? If sso, I would be interested in purchasing a set from you to save me the headache of designing my own.

Woohoo!! I'll bring the fuel and spark!!

Mid 12's sounds right. Who knows, maybe your "baby" will suprise you

I was going to mention the advance... For a ball park, I have my settings from 20* at 1000 rpms, going in 2 * increments per 250 rpm's up to 30 and then single increments up to 33. It works for me, but every motor is a little different.

It is an awesome tuning tool. I had the opportunity to use it for a week and get my car dialed in. I didn't realize how off I was until I used it. The saved material can be downloaded into your pc and viewed in graph form to compare air fuel at different rpms, throttle position setting, and any other number of variables. It is pretty high on my X-mas list.

Aluminum elbows... http://www.burnsstainless.com/ pricey, but nice quality Spearco intercooler... http://www.roadraceengineering.com/intercoolers.htm ... best price I found new (Ebay aside) model 2-221 flows 1080cfm (good for ~800 hp) For silicone couplers and clamps, http://turbohoses.com/ That is Hoover's site and he takes care of us Hybridz guys. My power steering is eliminated from my motor. I won't be able to get a photo until about Sunday, but will email it to you if you like. I am sad to hear about the engine mount hitting the steering column. Some creative engine mount options may be in my future. Sidenote .. I just picked up the T88H manifold (big runner) for the 2JZ. I just have to decide on a turbo now

beautiful...

That motor WILL fail shortly without a block gaurd at those hp #'s. The block gaurd presses in around the top of the cylinders between the block and cylinder wall. It needs the extra rigidity. They tend to crack around the thrust side of the #3 cylinder at the top of the cylinder sleeve. I have been spending a little "quality time" with a local import engine builder and have learned a few tricks regarding these motors. looks like a fun project though

Definately do a turbo change before the cam change. You will gain TONS more with that mod.