thehelix112

Believe me, I would if I could edit the posts. There appears to be something where you can only edit them for a period. I've since reorganized the gallery, but you can get the jist there: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/gallery/album/1220/663-280z-coil-overs/ Dave

Not sure if this'll help, but: From: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/63506-daily-1978-280z/page__view__findpost__p__674248 (my build thread, '78 280z) Dave

Maybe your guys' last few posts could be stickied as a new thread or something, coz thats great info. My small contribution: From 78 280z: ~65 pounds (bathroom scale) Entire RHS door Dave

Cool Mongo, let us know what you think of them. Dave

Check this thread, dunno if they're big enough for you: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/92107-zdayz-2k10-pics/

On the upside, 265 is about perfect for the Rota RB group-buy x9.5 rims. Dave

Not to hijack, but i'm about to order the Hankook Ventus Z214 (which comes in that size). I'm getting it as it's the cheapest semi i've found, but you might consider it too. It comes in two compounds, so you could maybe try both to find the best balance of wear, grip, warmup time for you, and not have to retune quite as much as if changing brands as well. Dave

[standard thread resurrection comment here] Fair point Dan. Dave

Finally got the cash aside for this, just shot Kim an email. Very excited.

Ok ordered from mcmaster carr: 5972K84 Metric Steel Ball Bearing Double Sealed Bearing NO. 6003 for 17mm Shaft Dia 2896K15 Metric Ball Bearing Shim Ring for Bearing Number 6202/6300, 35mm Outside Diameter We'll see how we go, Dave

Got it: http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/PSearch2.asp?reqTyp=parametric&act=psearch&FAM=ballrollerbearings&FT_158=229987&FT_5766=239384&FT_940=225006&FT_518=52165&FT_6437=255672&session=ballrollerbearings,158=229987,5766=239384,940=225006,518=52165;6437=255672&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=1006 Goes from 37mm to 35mm, and then any 6003 bearing, which I will try and stay with NSK, and goes from 35mm to 17mm. The only thing is the 6003 bearing is 10mm wide, there as both the others are 12mm wide.. though that should be ok I think? Worth the risk in ordering them I think, given its like less than $20 all up. Dave

Just found this white about NSK bearing part numbers: http://www.ahrinternational.com/NSK_nomenclature.shtml Still got no damn idea where to find a bearing that has idler OD and tensioner ID, might have to go to a NSK supplier or something. Ok so based on this: http://docs-asia.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0093/0900766b80093229.pdf and http://hongkong01.rs-online.com/web/4090439.html the Tensioner NSK 6203 is 40mm OD and 17mm ID. Idler NSK 6301 is 37mm OD and 12m ID. Which matches up with the basic measurements I've taken, but its good to have the Internet tell me! Bah, looks like there aren't any off the shelf bearings that are 37mm OD and 17mm ID. Shiiit. There is a 37mm OD and 19mm ID. So I guess I'll need to get a spacer or something, bugger. Dave

Got the engine on a stand: Yesterday removed all the hoses from the engine, and gave the engine a bit of a wipe down. Also, pulled the power steering pump and air-conditioning compressor off. Worked out how to alter the belt arrangement so just the alternator, water pump, and crank pulley are involved, using the stock tensioner. The trick is to take the ilder pulley from the AC compressor, and the tensioner pulleys off. Then to use the ilder pulley on the tensioner, which requires a bearing with the idler OD and the tensioner bearing ID (which is a little bit bigger). Haven't got this yet, but below are the part numbers: Tensioner: nsk 237 6203DUL1 Idler: nsk E08 6301DULX Also started pulling down one of the hayabusa intake manifolds to start spacing it out. Gotta call in a favour to get a flange machined. Dave

Maybe some more information on when the front end pushes would help the conversation along. Is it most prominent during turn-in, steady state, corner exit? All corner? Slow, medium, fast corners? On corners that are part of a sequence more so than ones that are at the end of a straight? WRT putting the power down, when does it happen? Immediately? After the car has squatted? After the car has rolled (transferred weight)? Note I dunno what to do with the answers to these questions, but someone with more experience likely will. Dave

Citation please. Not that I'm likely to be able to understand it, but someone might be able to. Dave PS. Incidentally, if I ever get my car going and visit Laguna Seca I'll be inviting both Leon and Jon to come help. Oh and bringing popcorn.

Random out of order todo list: Mount engine on engine stand. Get flange for intake manifold cut with grooves for gaskets. Space out throttle bodies onto said flanges. Work out the connections between the throttle bodies and the flanges (quick release/welded/rubber + clamps?). Work out throttle actuation and tuning. Get throttle velocity stacks. Pull off cam covers. Pull off intake cam sprockets and measure the degree of movement in the VCT system. Send both intake cam sprockets to melbourne australia for modification to be vernier sprockets. Get specs on matching camshafts from melbourne. Get cams and sprockets back. Reinstall cams and sprockets and valve springs. Pull off exhaust manifolds and sell them. Pull off the sump and get it modified for lower installation height. Get exhaust manifold flanges cut. And/or just buy exhaust manifolds from JBA. Take engine to central coast. Buy remote oil filter setup. Install remote oil filter adapter. Test fit engine. Likely smash things with sledge hammer to make engine fit. Retest fit engine X 4. Design engine crossmember. Get engine crossmember fabricated (beta motorsports?). Install engine crossmember. Install engine. Get autronic from australia. Figure out ignition signaling from exhaust camshaft (blanking off existing and moving hall effect sensor?). Pull off engine flywheel. Send flywheel to 10000rpm.com and get a custom flywheel with triple-plate 5.25" clutch built (be poor). Install flywheel/clutch. Buy z32 gearbox. Buy z32->vk56 gearbox adaptor and get gearbox machined to suit. Install gearbox. Fabricate/adapt gearbox crossmember. Measure tailshaft length. Get tailshaft shortened with upgraded joints. Install tailshaft. Wire up autronic. Get upgraded fuel pump. Install upgraded fuel pump. Work out belt to run the alternator/water pump. Work out alu piping to the radiator and connections. Hook up water piping. Modify throttle setup to a cable type. Test fire. (Pray). Fabricate remainder of the exhaust, side exit as short as possible. Tune. Do skids all over the ******* place. Resintall doors.

That is kinda cool. Always nice to see the underdog snarling. Dave

*sighs* Dave

I'm gunna go with how I read the topic of this thread: 3.1rwhp and less ft-lbs. Dave

+1 for the supertaxis in the US! Dave

That document would be a whole lot more useful if it had units. E.g. They've highlighted the viscosity as being too high, but without any units its impossible to translate that number of 13.5 at the `hot' measurement to what it means in terms of SAE weight. Maybe ring them back and ask them? Dave

For the VK56DE, I believe, after reading this: http://www.titantalk.com/forums/attachments/titan-general-discussion/9430-endurance-5.6l-attachment.pdf is not hydraulic, but that a lot of effort went into making the chains quiet. Dave

Been in a little more discussion with nizpro. Based on measurements, or supplying a VCT cam sprocket they should be able to supply cams to suit, with the possibility of making vernier intake cams as part of this. Fingers crossed! Hayabusa intake throttle bodies arrived: Unfortunately they taper downwards, as can be seen by comparing wall thickness at the edge in the first two pics above. This is only unfortunate given they taper down from 47.5mm to 41mm, which is far too small for the engine. Fortunately the majority of the taper occurs after the butterfly, so disassembly and some serious time with the Dremel/file will be required to get the port-side shape out to around 46mm or so. A very rough calculation of the head's cross-sectional area (~1632mm^2: details to follow) indicated that a minimum perfectly round (which the port-side of the hayabusa ITBs is not, due to the injector cutout, which is good as it adds some) throttle body would need to be ~46mm. So some relatively serious work to be done, though achievable. Also started dreaming about twin GT3582Rs using the one I have in Oz and another one here, they're thankfully a bit cheaper than when I bought the first one. Can also reuse the external wastegate. So lots of thinking, not much actual work been done. Dave

You're missing a stereo? Dave

Related I guess, http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/43865-tutorial-the-best-value-detonation-detectors-on-the-planet/ (sorry the pics don't work, trying to find them to rehost) I used these to tune my car. Its very, very obvious when it is detonating, its like intermittent sharp pings (as you'd expect) when its detonating. Ran 21psi on a stock L28ET short block and GT3582R with no issues (after getting a L28ET not L28E head gasket!). I just like it as it costs basically $10 bucks and an afternoon. Plus you end up looking like an alien (got a pic of that somewhere). Dave