GOTHALOSISM

With the IRS setup you wont really notice it.

Kool thanks for the update and hope you start to feel better.

Wow I wish I had your determination and skill.

Just read any Dilbert comic and see what signs are of a bad boss.

Its just going to be a showcar / drag weekend car. I will do another Z when my son is old enough and make it a road corse car.

I saw that they have an add on this site but when I go to their site there is no listing for Datsuns or older Z cars. I have searched the site and it keeps saying nothing available. I know thats not the case since I have seen their products before. Any one else have this issue or is it just the site that needs to be updated?

So is it going to take a full 9 months before we see any offspring running around?

TURBO, you can allways install AC later if so desired.

^^^ Jaw dropper.... Now if those handles were shaved it would be perfect.

Very nice and thanks for the info. I might just end up swapping in a solid rear end for that price...

Thats just not fair. Here in Vegas your lucky to see one for under 2k...

What did you do for the 5 lug? By the way love the way those vents look on the side of the front fenders.

I saw a few things on this already but no one showed how easy it is with pics so here you go. For those of you that are upgrading to a SBC or just want more clutch power this is a very easy and some what cheap upgrade. First get a Wilwood 7/8 master cylinder kit (summit is $66.60) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-3376/ The new master bolts directly to the stock points in the Z. Now as for the shaft for the clutch pedal on the new master is to long. There are 2 ways to go about fixing it. 1. Cut the shaft to the correct length 2. Swap out the shafts with the stock Master. The easiest is to just swap the parts out Tools needed: Snap ring pliers Process: 1. Take the stock master shaft out by squeezing the retaining ring and it should just pop out 2. Unscrew the bracket on the end to take off the little washer like thing 3. Using the Snap Ring Pliers take out the new shaft on the new master 4. Take the new "washer" and put it on the stock shaft then screw the bracket back on. 5. Put the stock shaft into the new master and just put the snap ring back on. 6. Put master on car and attach the pedal to the shaft. As far as hoses from the new master to the slave that is up to you on how you want to do that. Most people drill and tap the master for a -3AN fitting and use SS braided line to the slave.

Ok I'll say it now I am a dumbass... i was looking at the VSS sensor port the whole time and I just noticed I had a cable input!!!! I did find some info out though. You can just take out the electronic speedo port and put in a cable driven one in the same place from another T5 or auto with the same setup. http://gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=7948

If I find anything out I'll let you know. You can always spend the $350 for a CableX converter.

Agreed cant wait to see this setup. I'm contimplating just getting a second job to pay for the whole setup!

Not in all the way (still need mounts made) but its just to see how everything will line up. It still needs to go back a few more inches for the final install.

If you are pulling just the engine and not the tranny then just use the hoist and not the leveler. I'm not sure where to put a leveler on for both since I never used one before.

I have tried searching but for some reason the search function is not working correctly right now. I have a 89 WC T5 that has an electric output for an electric Speedo. Of course we all know that the Datsun speedo is cable driven. I can't afford the cable X box so is there any way to convert the electrical output to a gear driven cable? Thanks!

In a way its a good idea to hide the fuel tank for us that run shaved rears.

If they are molded in the best way is probably to use a cutoff wheel and be very very carefull. To bad your not close to me in vegas I would help you and then buy them from ya.

I had a little trouble as well, finally found it though I'll link it.

Ok guys I have a set of Corvette fuel rail covers for a lt1. I know how to make a mold of them to do a custom version but my question is what type of plastic material should I use to pour into the mold?