BLOZ UP

Ha, thanks. I don't know if I'll have this car in 40 years, but I went through enough rusted out shells before happening upon it that I'll at least try to contain the damage when I can, just for the next person. I figure if I keep putting it off, it will just end up like the other rusted out ones.

That RPM is kind of low, but try cutting fewer sparks.

4" is like 800hp territory. It's a bit excessive. But more importantly, it's hard to route under the car, no? Also, you might want to get the turbine ceramic coated. There's a place in Arlington that does good work (so I've heard). Because that rust will come right back.

Cool. Thanks for the suggestions. I have some spots in the dog legs that appear to be just surface rust as well, I'll probably do the same to them.

I'm in Somerset. I do 50 miles each way mostly on 287.

I haven't gotten to drive mine much, no major events. Especially since I moved to NJ I haven't. I'm kinda nervous about all this NJ traffic as well. It feels like there's an accident on my way to work 3 or 4 times a week.

Either, but be sure they are inflated properly (or even a few psi above). Low tire pressure can take a chunk of you power out. Other than that, let it warm up by driving it on the dyno before tuning.

Here it is from te NJ MVC form: You also have to submit two photos of the car. One profile shot and one of the front. Here's a PDF guide, with example good/bad photos: http://www.state.nj.us/mvc/pdf/Vehicles/historic-samples.pdf I don't have a front bumper which will apparently disqualify you, so I grabbed some pics from autotrader of a yellow 280z. There are LS powered Zs getting these dumb "cannot be altered in any way" plates. Since they don't apparently check the engine bay, I'm going to attempt to register next week. I have a feeling it is a very subjective qualification, it probably depends on who you meet at the MVC counter. But since I have excellent photos of a stock 280z, I don't think I'll have problems.

Looks like you'll need more smoke: http://sjpdesigns.com/poa/lucas.html

That sounds like it might effect me negatively.

[oops wrong tab.]

I had a heater core hose leak. After removing the old carpet, this is what it did: Do I just grind away the paint around the affected areas and prime? I won't be repainting the car for a while.

Until TX raised their rates to ridiculous levels. Tried to get the same thing in NJ. It was rejected because it was "objectionable". Surprise, surprise. No apparent way to appeal, no standards by which they judge. Just depends on who's desk it lands I'm guessing.

Thanks. The only thing I can think of that changed is the distributor. I clocked it advanced as far as it will go, and added the 15 degree or so offset in my MS trigger settings. So, the plug wire for #1 hits my TPS. That's all I can think of. In other news, I checked and tightened everything. My exhaust is whack and hanging low, one of the straps on the transmission just isn't cutting it. A lot of the weight of the exhaust is on the turbo and manifolds now I am guessing. I need to fix that. Finally bolted the radiator on completely since I kept forgetting to fasten two of the tabs. Added some padding to the charge pipe that runs next to the radiator. Removed dangling speed sensor wires from transmission. Checked coolant. Checked motor mounts. Once I fix that exhaust I can make it to the Z meeting next week.

I have megasquirted 3.0L, a decent sized turbo, 18psi of boost and maxing out my 550cc injectors I get 240RWHP. It can't get much worse than that. At 8psi I made 170rwhp. So, you're doing better than me, I'd say. Long story short one cylinder doesn't have a whole lot of compression and it wasn't tuned. I think Megasquirt would be the way to go. Yeah, it's a pain to setup if you've never done it before, but once you wire in everything you're done (except for tuning). It's pretty straight forward for these engines. Lots of people have done it here and can help you through the way. One thing you could do, right now, is remove the rising rate FPR. Those are just band-aids that will get you running, but going very rich under load.

280Z, but still: 16x8+0 XXRs with 225/55 Bridgestones. Rubbed on the rear fenders until I rolled them. Front's fine.

Resets still happening. Right at 2100 rpms and no where else. W. T. F. Fuel tank still slowly leaks from my NPT plug it looks like. Too bad I have to drain the damned thing to fix it. It'll have to wait until the tank's near empty. The tank also rusts and is not something I'm happy with. I should have had it cleaned and done the welding myself, then had it coated. Heater core is not leaking as far as I can tell, so yay.

Got pics of your tank? I paid 400 for a sump to be added to mine and it's a leaky, rusting POS now. Should have had it cleaned and done the welding/painting myself, as usual. So, notching that timing cover is such a obvious solution. I can't believe I didn't think of that when I was making that damned ghetto pipe of mine...

That's what Tony D was suggesting in my thread, attaching to the bumper. I'm guessing I can't yank the bumper out of it's shocks from sudden acceleration/trailer getting caught? I suppose the FSM would answer this.

I see. How close is it to the water pump/block?

Usually on the battery, occasionally on the wiper motor cowl. Only time I drink near my Z is when I work on it.

Heater core doesn't appear to be leaking, it was a loose host connection on it. Car is running great--except now I'm getting MS resets out of the blue, Like 10 when I went for a short drive. I moved a ground to a different spot on the intake. That's all I changed.

Do you have more pictures of your thermostat inlet pipe you welded up? I should redo mine since it's butt ugly. Although, it doesn't leak. Yet. It looks like without the timing cover you have a bit more room. Doh, why didn't I notch the cover at least... And, where did you source that bracket for the top of the alternator? Mine also could be redone... Butt ugly.... Yadda yadda.

You can use one off of a Z31 I imagine. There are two iterations, the later one is nicer.