BLOZ UP

I'm all old now. Maybe that's it. After I turned 25 all my rates went way down. Ha! Little do they know....

Weird. I've had zero issues with hagerty. They just asked for some pictures and that was it.

Ha, thanks. I changed the oil today. I added some seafoam on the weekend before I drove it around. I've been bad. The oil was really low. Didn't even register on the dipstick (whose tube is bent and it's not going in as far as it should, but still). I think I mentioned it earlier, before I moved, but on "brisk' acceleration and deceleration, the oil pressure drops. Not anymore! Plus, after hard driving... no lifter tick. I really think I was on the threshold. The lifters were losing pressure before the main or rod bearings is my guess. Any less oil and I could have toasted a bearing. Or, maybe I have a lightly toasted one and just don't know it yet! Perfect time to autocross and find out. I tuned it a lot more today. Found an empty road where I can go WOT in first to redline. My tach gives up around 5k RPMS.... and when my rev limiter kicks in, it also gives up (I'm cutting spark, not fuel for rev. limiting). So, I'm probably going to switch it to Megasquirt's tach output. But, the car is not hitting some soft fuel or timing problem anymore, as far as I can tell. Since replacing that spark plug, my datalogs have been a lot cleaner. Less EMI! Annnnnddd... my heater core gave up. I'm literally in the middle of replacing the carpet (although, I have been for the past month), and I noticed a coolant spot under the passenger area on the floor in the garage. I have the rear carpet in already, but thankfully not the front. I was going to put in the rest before this autox, but it looks like that's not going to happen. The autox may not happen now, either . tune-datalog-04-2013.zip

"I am never rolling these fenders" -Me. Slight fender bender bending this fender: I, in my infinited wisdom, tried trimming the fender insets, which made it harder to roll. So, the parts that were trimmed didn't roll so well. It's the rolled edge that's a little inconsistent, not the flat fender "bill", or whatever it's called. I did the passenger side first in the theory I'd see it less. The driver's side came out way better: But in both cases, I lost a ton of paint. I knew it would be a lost cause when the heat gun itself caused the paint to crack and fall off, before the roller ever came in to play. So I test drove it and it's so nice not having to worry about shredding my tires as I hit all eleventy billion potholes that adorn every NJ road. I also checked plugs as I can hear a miss under light loads. Number four was completely fouled it seemed. Replacing it with a new one cleared up a lot. Now I have to retune since my wideband reading was skewed rich since I was tuning with a cylinder that wasn't firing. I believe the cause is low compression on that cylinder.

$190 a year?! I pay $350/year. But then again, mine is under their "modified/racing" category, I have $15,000 total coverage, and unlimited 100 mile towing.

That's so genius. Hmm...

Cool, but the point is to not have to haul stuff in my Z just to dump it out on the pavement. With a trailer, I can unhitch and have somewhere to keep all my stuff. Locking it, if needed.

Any ideas on a tire, or autocross trailer? 4 tires... a chest... I'm thinking built in mini air compressor? Looks like many have done this before. The Harbor freight utility trailer is a great place to start. http://www.mainstreet-data.com/trailer/ https://www.google.com/search?q=autocross+tire+trailer&hl=en&safe=off&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=tuZVUdOKCei60gH4voGgDg&ved=0CEsQsAQ&biw=1198&bih=767

Ah, I see. Thanks. I've seen pics of one like that ages ago. Uhaul says they have one but "have discontinued it but might still have inventory", but it's awfully expensive. I think I can fabricate something similar to that but for a 280Z for < 200 bucks.

Hm, well I thought my mods threw it out? According to the MVC: "The vehicle must be owned as a collector’s item and used solely for exhibition or educational purposes. Please note that the vehicle cannot be altered from the manufacturer’s original design in any way and must be equipped for legal operation on New Jersey roadways." Or do they not really check? Yes, but when I first installed it, it was much, much quieter. Like stock pump volume level. I believe the cavitation over time has damaged it. In other news: I'm borrowing a real fender roller from a friend who just bought one randomly. Score!

Oh, I figured it was the return. I suppose it could be if I wanted, but yeah, the stock return is just way easier to hook up. I filled up the tank and primed everything and started it. The pump whined for a minute before getting fuel. Then it still whined but was obviously getting fuel. Not sure if better than before. Part of me was wishing it would die so I can get a Fuel Lab. The other part doesn't want to pluck out the cash. But, I checked this morning, no leaks. Now I just have to roll the fenders, tune it, and pass emissions somehow.

I'd like to tow a small trailer with my 77. I've seen some hitches installed on Zs from the dealer, anyone have one? I can't find any for sale, and I only found this thread that talks about making a custom one, but the pics are borken. I suppose I could make one as well. I can weld up to around 1/4" steel with my TIG. I'd rather spend the time making a trailer though. I'd like to make a tiny single axle trailer for towing 4 wheels and a toolbox (or toolbox holder). Bonus features: icebox slot, cup holder. The goal is something really nice for autox.

Meh. I feel like this is overkill, but I'm also not in the mood to replace my fuel pump again, and Aeromotive says: "Warranty voidy voidy if no sumpity dumpity". So, I think I am going to plug the sump's return, and use the stock return line on the tank since I can't find a -8 to 5/16" barb. I found a -6 to 5/16", but it's Aeromotive and $22. No thanks. I have a few Ace Hardware fittings (on top of the bumper in the first photo) to convert from -8 to 5/16", but... Also, the Jeg's filter I have is disgusting. I'll run it for the first fill-up just in case, but I'll have to order another. Plus, I managed to whack the Male AN flare of the filter housing against the floor and dent the tip of it. I think it's repairable and it's low pressure, but still irks me. Oh, and I spilled more gas out of the "empty" lines on to the floor. And yes, that is a space heater blowing on spilled gasoline.

Not too far from the truth: Step 1: Blow up rest of VGs Step 2: Put in V8. In other news, I got my fuel tank back. Not too impressed with the work they did for the price. But, it's ready to go in. It's kind of a large sump...

Wow, it looks like that car was destined to be an engine donor. Everything's been laid to waste except the front.

HINT: It's still next to the gigantic HEAT truck.

What size injectors you have, and what max duty cycle did you hit at that level Phil?

Well, the shipping was cheap. Would have been cheaper had I gone straight to a company. The shipper was nice, but failed to mention that the cars parked above mine leaked like a sieve. Especially onto the rear portion of the roof. He cleaned it off the roof and hood, but I found a sizable pool of oil above the tail lights and on the hatch seal. Nasty thick stuff. Maybe real old oil or ATF. Anyway, after test driving it and such, all the problems I forgot about when the car was gone are back. Specifically: Fuel system needs work Fix tire rubbing Fix BOV Needs PCV via catch can Install carpet Cleanup wiring Check motor mounts After those, it should be ready for some autocross. I figure I'll miss the first two of the season, but be out for the one mid-April. My fuel pump really whines and I believe I've nearly killed it. So, the fuel tank is getting cleaned up and a sump added to it. I've got the lines waiting to route a new feed and return to the fuel pump. Hopefully that will alleviate the cavitation I'm hearing from it, if it's not too late. If it is, on the other hand, I'm eyeing one of Fuelab's sweet pumps with integrated low-level PWM input that I can control with MS's PWM boost control output. Tires rub and need to be rolled, I guess. Not sure how I'm going to do that quite yet. BOV is too tight and causes light fluttering. Might try another brand. Carpet is easy to install and has just been waiting for me to not be lazy. Some of the wiring is whack in the engine bay and near the transmission. I figure the PCV catch "can" (more likely to be a box) will go here somewhere. What I'm thinking is making a dual coolant overflow up top, catch can on bottom thing that mounts where the current overflow is. I'm guessing I'll route the valve cover tubes down to the frame rails since I can't see any way to go up top without going close to the exhaust manifolds. From there will be a connection to the turbo inlet pipe. So, here it is as of now: Other things I need to do: Add 220v outlet to garage Get welder supplies Mount gauges. Replace intercooler and some of the piping

Yeah, 11.5 and it's up to your timing after that. 10 is just wasting fuel.

No emissions tests to worry about Somewhat cheap parts Not a huge land yacht All of my odd looking custom stuff won't bring the look of the car down.

Interested in cams and springs. Or complete heads depending on price. Any work done to the heads?

Is the compressor outlet hooked up to the engine inlet? My last turbo on a VG30 wouldn't always spin at idle, and I could stop it with my hand if it did. Anything above idle though, and it would spin up. Also seemed a bit friction-y as far as spinning freely. My new ball-bearing one keeps spinning for a bit after my engine's turned off. And I've tried, only with only a little pressure on compressor wheel's nut, to stop it. Wasn't happening. But then I have way different manifolds this time around.

Tony, can you see this?

It's here. Boost still working. Needs a tune bad. Fuel pump is complaining as usual. But no lifter noise? It fixed itself! Neighbors probably hate me as it was slick out and I couldn't resist.

Clocking out early to meet my car for a date...