BLOZ UP

Yeah, I recall Corky Bell saying somewhere that the brace should just be finger tight. That is, in his example of a heim joint or two with adjustable rod lengths, you get it finger tight and then lock it in place. That way it takes a couple pounds off of the exhaust studs, but more importantly takes the brunt of the force of bumps while driving. But I can make something similar coming from below the turbo. I'll plan for a little bit of warp movement and use a heim joint or two. Something like this, where the ends on the right are connected to the lower block and head, and the turbo is accurately depicted on the left.

Thanks for the reply. That's not a bad idea, holding it up from the bottom, I hadn't thought of that. I was stuck on, "How can I support this from the top". I've got some spare space on the driver's side head, and then a little space right next to the oil pan (on either side), I could probably make some sort of triangle like support that the turbo rested on.

Your intake piping is larger than my exhaust.

You need the pump if the turbo is lower than the return on the oil pan. Otherwise the oil would back up against the turbo, which is bad. Having one turbo in the engine bay and and one in back would be a waste. There's enough room in the engine bay for two turbos, at least if you have the will and means to go that route in the first place. You couldn't do a true twin setup like that anyway, unless you were aiming for an unbalanced setup to begin with. You could do a compound/sequential turbo setup like that I suppose, but why?

So what was with the computer? Wrong INI/config file? Meh, the interior needs some work. Seats are all torn and bad. I have the interior pieces and a new carpet. Just been too lazy and focused on powah.

Meh, I got the Harbor Freight one. I picked up the maxima motor. I'm in the process of getting it on the engine stand and I'll attempt the leakdown from there. I tried to do it at VGs To Go, but it kept turning over on me. Also have a bunch of new seals. I might have it in by this weekend. For sure by the end of spring break. I break in my engines by racing.

The Nissan transmissions on the later Z31s (ie the one you have) are the strongest in Z31 land (30A). They are also the same on the Z32. I believe they also used this in some of the RB cars.

After I do a leakdown on this new motor, I'm starting my swap tomorrow too. Although I'm just swapping identical motors. Sort of. A little higher compression on the new one (9.0:1). I hope to be done by Sunday. Did I miss anything at the meeting today? Did you all go?

I knew someone was going to say that! Where's my *chain driven* dohc head? VQ?

Where's my OS Giken VG30E head?

Cooool! What's your crankcase breathing setup?

Well we can speculate all we want. What matters to me and my iEgo are the actual numbers it puts down. And right now I'm getting 5mpg and don't have any power to justify that with. But it looks like I might pick up a 9:1 low miles maxima motor soon. Need to get one of those leakdown testers to be sure. Remind me to do a test on both new and old engine--then we could even get a realistic % assuming the current tune works well on the new motor.

Last compression test was 120psi on all except one at 90 and one at 110. I had just put the injectors back in after cleaning the day before (more info on my website), and had tuned it very very roughly on the way to the dyno. I had a decent map from before but I richened it all out. The last two runs (12 and 18psi) bottomed out my LC-1. Timing is also conservative. Basically, the motor needs a rebuild. I knew this ahead of time, but I didn't think it was THIS bad.

Very wrong.

Sounded good. I like your custom hood.

UBELIEVABLE POWER!!1 18PSI DYNO RUN!!1

I have 225/50/16s on. Rear rubs on the fenders slightly on bumps (Tokico springs). Fronts don't rub. Wheels are 16x8+0. 1977 280Z.

I think most of them are probably proprietary. You'd have to design and implement everything from the circuit boards, to the motors, microcontrollers, and software.

Most crash tests (in the US) are done at 30-40mph. If you are going fast enough (or the difference of speeds is large enough), no safety feature can save you.

Most cars now-a-days have electronic dash buttons, if not full LCDs. It's "easy" if the controls are electronic. There's another whole layer of complexity if you have to physically move the mechanisms yourself. Especially dumb ones like on the Z that require quite a bit of torque.

No, no, this is good. It looks like I'll just have to make some sort of frame like that frame rail one you posted, but in the engine bay. I guess my biggest worry is how can I make it not look dumb. That, and my hood clearance is a little tight for some frame going all over the place. I like the first one you posted, but in my case the turbo's just too far away from the motor to be able to support any real weight (IMO). Check out my build thread: Link, or my website in my signature. Last page or two has video.

I'm using the 71C. I used the 300ZX rubber isolator over the 280Z crossmember.

Wastegate: new spring Boost controller: fixed (I think) Flex pipe: added Lost sync issues: came and went (fixed--so far) Wideband: died and replaced Problem where engine would cut out: looked at gas gauge and filled up. Cruise tuning: almost done Here's the most recent footage: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wH3GeLrxu4 Next up: Seafoam and an oil change to try and quite a lifter. Turbo support brace Catch can Dyno run Not necessarily in that order.

Ahhh I see. Are you sure you have power to the megasquirt while cranking?

That initial flash should be the pulse. I don't understand what you are asking. If you tested at the injector and got a flash, that means they are getting pulsed. The only other thing I can think of is that if all your priming pulsewidths are zero, the fuel pump will also not come on for two seconds. But that would mean no pulse on start up. Which you said you had...