BLOZ UP

I'm still being told that modern 3-way cats are always operational, and need 14.7 to be most effective. Not just during transitions. It's not like even brand new engines burn completely on every cylinder every time, right? So, that's what the cats for, right? But I at least let Tony D and the like convince me to skip putting a cat on my new exhaust build. Even if I might be moving to California in a couple years--I will keep my main residence in TX. Ehem.

Hellaflush, right?

Why do these cameras cost a gazillion of dollars, and where's the regulatory agency to make sure that it isn't "tweaked" to the local government's ideals. Also, at least in TX, the red light cameras are only a civil offense, since the burden of proof is lower (they don't know who ran the light). Just don't pay it if you get one. I'm sure it's like parking tickets in a large city, they eventually purge them out after a couple years.

As it turns out, there's a '77 that I'm working on at a local shop here as a favor. Just checked the paint code sticker the other day: 411 Sunburst Yellow... No decals though, but it has been repainted. "Only 1000 made", huh?

Yeah, couple things. Tokico lowering springs and new shocks on all corners. Looks great now, but the rear tires really rub now on bumps, and the front's rub a bit on full-lock. I foresee a 215/55/16 purchase in the future. I'm trying to keep it close to the stock diameter. Not rolling any fenders. Cleaned up the engine bay, new coil, checked and set the valve lash. Most importantly I installed another fuel tank that wasn't rusted to hell. I used some muriatic acid on as well. That stuff works great! I've gone through a tank and it is indeed getting ~11mpg. Plugs don't look bad. The fuel pump I installed is either dying due to the 10 miles I drove it when the fuel inlet was... clogged a bit--or it is just a loud pump. It's really irritating. Tempted to get an OE replacement. I picked up a cheap set (if that is the correct term for an inline engine) of headers. Hopefully once I get over the next hump of homework and tests I'll have enough time to install the headers and make a new exhaust for it. I plan on "tuning" this NA a bit. Intake, cam, headers, megasquirt. I'm going to make this one exhaust work for both the L28 and the VG30ET whenever I get around to installing it. At least, from the downpipe back. Pics are on the other computer which is too much of a hassle right now, since I'm really supposed to be doing homework. It's 1:30 in the morning already? Sheesh...

Me three. My Z came with Home Depot carpet that wasn't held down at all. The second it got caught under my feet it was all out the window. Looking for a good replacement as well. I've heard good things about the non-moulded ones but wanted to see them myself, in an actual Z.

Did you scope the sensor itself or the circuit output? The output would be a squareish wave for MS, the sensor itself should be sinish.

Your engine speed would have to be very, very, consistent for the amplitude to stay even. Changes the voltage depend on the change in magnetic flux. The faster the reluctor spins, the bigger change in flux (over time), and then the bigger change in electramotive force. I'm not sure whether the range your seeing is or isn't normal, but it explains why it is different.

Top Gear Top Tip: Use Macro Mode.

The CAS in the dizzy. Unless you mean really, really distributor-less.

There's a football game today?

http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/ Is also a great place to get weld-els, collectors, aluminium pipe and silicone and t-clamps. Sign up for their B-stock list! I can get weld-els locally much cheaper, but most of that other stuff I can't find cheap locally.

The bushings... that is...

Dogs try to mask their scent by... rolling in things that smell. Cats mask their scent by keeping themselves clean. I found that soaking them in gasoline really helped burn mine out.

Wow, your car is amazing. It looks like you put the camber plates on top of what's left of the strut tower. I suppose that makes sense to keep the geometry more or less the same. Did you just weld on the tops, or all around? How did you smooth it all out? I've been told that too, but I also know cars that have them close to the outlet without any problems. I was told that it can burn up O2 sensors, but I don't know how accurate that is. I know some cars that have them even closer to the valves from the factory...

Those durations on the AltanticZ site aren't at 0.050", right?

I've spoken to someone who used to work at GM for quite some time. He said something of the sort: "We found out for one engine series that every 15th block or so came out of the cast wrong, instead of fixing the cast, we just threw back the bad blocks." Too bad they didn't go completely bankrupt...

You can get the leaf spring off without unbolting the front of the diff. Just need a good pry bar... Then you can remove the rear cover, IIRC.

I only have been able to use one vote since I signed up. Or do I have to be a donating member?

Surely they pay if they were wrong, right? I find that ridiculous. So you can buy a car that came with 500hp from the factory, but to get the same HP from a different car, that came with 200HP from the factory... is illegal? Where's the logic in that? What are the laws supposed to protect? What if you modify a car to have less horsepower? Take off a few fuel injector clips, and get on the highway and cause all sorts of chaos. Since it almost seems like they want everyone to have less power. Less power = safer in their minds, or what?

Any more pics of your engine mounts?

::Shudders::

The fuel pump has a safety diverter valve, well,should have a safety valve, but it's supposed to kick in at 90 or so psi. Maybe yours broke.

If it's one without buttons on the steering wheel, the horn cover pops off. Pry at it.

Got springs. Looking for shocks still. Performance ones only.