BLOZ UP

All OEM and cheap China HIDs that my cars have do the opposite. Dim and slowly brighten...

It's got a year or two of warranty and I intend to use it a lot within that time. Viewing area is bigger than the HF, and I noticed that the HF has a line of darker shade going horizontally through the middle of the lense. Not so here. Welding is easy now!

Here, I know, in TX, any car over 10 years old is required to be on the dyno. OBD-II, 3, 3000. I'm so not looking forward to moving to CA. If they had kept the rolling 25 I would feel better... Really, how many 25+ year old cars are there compared to newer ones? 1/100, 1/1000? Arrrr....

I installed the resonator. So, I ordered a 3x24" "straight-through" resonator from Summit. They say it's on BO and won't ship out till later this month. So I build the exhaust above. The next day, I get a notice saying that it had shipped out the previous day. Figures. It arrives in the mail, and it is not exactly "straight-through". Which actually is what I wanted, I suppose. The car needed to be much quieter. It is still quite loud. Part of this perception might be because this is the first non-turbo car that I've owned in a while--with a modified exhaust. I think that Magnaflow isn't helping muffle anything, really. Probably amplifying the drone. I need to add a couple more hangars and a final muffler tip (mostly to bring the exhaust away from the cabin--a problem I've heard of and now experience first-hand), but otherwise it's done. This spring break I am going to get started on something special...

Sent.

I ended up chickening out and getting a Miller Performance Series. The plain black one. 3 sensors, ~5 amp sensitivity, grind mode, replaceable batteries, about $200 out the door. A fine compromise. Came with a bag and 5 extra covers. Tried it out the other day to add a resonator to my exhaust. The headgears works better than the HF one, seems sturdy enough to me (I've heard of complaints of cheap headgear, at least on the Elite series). It's so nice to weld without worrying about flashes or having to lower my manual helmet down.

Should. You should also use a projector and a correct housing so you don't blind people....

What'd you replace them with? Are the old ones marked? I bought a Miller something or other, but it'd be nice to have my old HF as a backup.

What did yours do when they died?

Got and installed some used 6-1 headers. Ordered a muffler and some bends and got to work on the exhaust soon after: This is to adapt the 2.5" header out to the 3" from then on. I plan on having a VG with a 3" collector later, hence the removable adapter. Flex pipe is so I can play with positioning bit later on since I'm eyeballing the entire thing. I prefer to tack the outside and then weld the inside of the flanges. Itty-bitty weld. Yes, I know I need an actual table top. They were out of the SS sheet I wanted when I made the rest of it. All complete: Turns out this exhaust is loud as hell. I hate it. Sounds "OK" at idle, but unbearable at any other speed. Really, really, resonates at high load and RPM. It sounds like one and a half civics with fart cans. So, I ordered a 24" straight through "resonator", and I will see if that helps. If I still can't stand it I'll but a chambered resonator on it.

'77. Lowered with Tokico springs (went down 1.5-2.0"). 225/50-16x8 BFG g-Force T/A KDW (Series 1). I'm not really considering 215 widths since I'd rather be sure and get 205s. My 225s look a lot wider than yours, though. I guess it really does vary between manufacturers. However, it really only rubs a little. Ugh. I want to get as wide as I can, but I don't want to waste money on tires that end up just rubbing again.

Sounds like your counter spring is worn. VSS > GPS > Eddy current speedos.

Looks like I'm going to stretch a 205/55 a little bit to get it on the 8" wide wheel. Not "recommended", but from what I googled, should be fine. Doesn't really look stretched all that much either. Plus, tire selection goes way up with that size. Must be a common OEM size for 7".

I'd rather sacrifice speedo accuracy first and get a smaller tire. Looks like that 1010 tires resource is a place to start. I am just trying to find information on sane tire setup combinations.

Right, right, I've used all those resources. But they won't tell me what is a safe tire size to put on an 8" wide wheel. So, which is more proper on an 8" wide wheel, 205/45 or 205/50?

So, I have 225/50 all around on my 16x8 0 offset XXR 513s. '77 280Z. I'm going off a 195/70, 14x6 stock wheel and tire size. Now that I have lowered the car, it rubs on the rear somewhat bad on bumps. I am not rolling my fenders. I would rather buy different tires. It also rubs now, since lowering, on the front on full lock, but I haven't looked to see where. So, with trying to keep the stock tire diameter in mind, what tires should I get next? I've looked at 205/50, but apparently that will look quite stretched. I saw on one forum that 205/45 would be better. But that's got a smaller sidewall, and would make my speedo somewhat inaccurate. If that'll fix it, then I get them, but can anyone point me to a solid reference for recommended tire sizes for various wheel widths--and be safe? I'd rather have some tire left to protect the wheels... I've looked at tyre-stretch.com to get an idea. They don't seem to have anything bigger than a 205/45 to look at.

Parhaps I missed a build thread, but what are you doing/have you done about sound insulation? I'm interested to know about exhaust muffling as well.

Looks like a Ferrari take on the porsche limo fail

I twist it... I want to say counter clockwise (from a bottom perspective), from star to moon. Works great. Too bad my side mirrors end up blinding me if I ever move my head to one side.

Windows XP: http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/digitalphotography/learnmore/tips/eschelman2.mspx Windows Other: http://imageresizer.codeplex.com/

LS1s at least would go to whatever the stock tune is, but had a cat overtemp mode which (...) richened the mixture to cool the cats ().

Started flickering on me. At first it was low amps, so I tried 50 amps or so. Still flickered. Tried different angles thinking I was covering one of the sensors, still flickered. Let it charge for a few hours, lasted about 30 seconds then started flickering again. Batteries might be dead--but it's suppose to be solar powered as well. Before that I never had any flickering even at low amps. Mine pulled my hair out as well, but that's the type of straps, and is probably common to other helmets as well. That's what those bandanna things are for.

Any ANSI Z87+ spec helmets should provide UV/IR/Eye Death protection even in the light shade. It'll just be bright. The HF freight ones are, so it says... From what I read: Miller Digital Elite: Great but proprietary cover lenses, Jackson NexGen: Great but more pricey. I'm leaning towards the NexGen. I just want one without tacky/overly patriotic graphics on it.

The "Yield to your right" signs also make waaaaaaay more sense than the bazillion stop signs cities plant everywhere. Think of all the gas we could save if we didn't have to stop at empty four-ways, just slow down to see if anyone's coming on your right! Unless you're the main road, then plow on.

So my $40 Harbor Freight autodarkening welding helmet died. It lasted a couple years without a problem, and I'd go grab another one.... but, I figure I weld enough to warrant splurging for a nice one. I've been looking at the Jackson NexGen ones with the large viewing areas, but I can't find any solid reviews of enough to justify dropping $300-400. And from what I have read, I can find people who dislike any of the expensive ones for various reasons. So, what helmet do you have or recommend? I do TIG only from 5-150 amps.