BLOZ UP

Got springs. Looking for shocks still. Performance ones only.

I haven't tried swapping wheels, that could affect it. but either the chassis and suspension are straight or my measuring tape is wrong. If it rubs enough, the 2mm that hits will come off the tire and it will no longer rub. It's hardly worth rolling fenders, is my point.

Sounds like, but isn't.

I had a tank cleaned for 80 bucks. However that just loosened all the rust near the outlet. I ended up replacing my entire tank with another 77's I got for cheap. I drained the gas on this other tank, washed it out with water, poured some muriatic acid from Ace in it, swashed it around, poured it out, rinsed it out with water again, poured some alcohol in it to try and more of the water out, and then drained that and put it in the car. Been fine for a couple weeks now.

The 88 Z31 SS had a VLSD with different spline counts. All other 87-89 Turbos had a CLSD with the 280Z R200 spline counts, IIRC.

Mid-77 I believe, they changed.

For me, it's only one wheel that rubs. I'd go different tires before rolling fenders.

Because I don't have everything together, nor do I have the time, to swap in my VG30? Plus, it's running fine.

Looking for shocks, any performance ones, non-adjustable or adjustable. Let me know what you have.

Ok, I was wrong. Very wrong, and trying to sound like I knew what I was talking about. I'm just parroting information I hear, trying to act like I know a lot. I see what you're getting at.

Really? I was under the impression that cats drastically reduced HC, NOx, and CO1 emissions--at all times, but most efficiently at stoich levels. So what your saying is, if I tune my Z to stoich, it's nearly as clean as running it at stoich with a cat. The cat only starts working to compensate for Accel enrich., etc.?

I went ahead and did just that actually. The CAS also had a bad connection. So, it was a combination of PTU, CTS, and CAS. At least the CTS for the instrument panel seems to be working. Basically it was everything I disconnected to do the timing belt. Go figure.

Isn't that a given? Of course the rest of the emissions equipment won't work as well if it has worse stuff to start off with?

Never. Best fenders I have ever seen.

I never said run the car rich as possible and put a cat on and it will be better. I said they reduce pollution. I'm aware that the car has to be running at stoich for the cat to work properly. The debate was whether or not they work during cruise, idle, transients. I am purportedly wrong about that.

I think I'll just trim the fender, it only needs a couple mm. Then I'll roll it just slightly.

Tried. Plastic crumbled, just getting another connector instead.

Well, I found the problem. It was a combination of one of the the PTU harness connectors, and the CTS connector. I've eliminated that PTU subharness connectors like someone above mentioned, and will go to the Z yard to try and grab a CTS connector. The CTS does not look so bad corrosion wise, but the female terminals have spread open and aren't making good contact. Depending on how you whack the harness the car will run/miss/stall, and I was confusing it with the PTU harness. So, problem solved.

What? No it's not. The cat is operational all the time (once warmed up). They don't just convert HC, but also NOx, and CO. They work most efficiently at removing all 3 of those very close to stoich. They overheat when they have too much fuel that burns off in them. They are less efficient for various emissions at non-stoich. levels.

A floor temp light, like on my 77 Cali model...

Cats are actually one of the best devices to reduce emissions, IMO. You can get high flow ones and not feel dizzy at stoplights as well as pollute less. I'm no enviromentalist by far, but I will accept that cats and EGR have pretty much made cars pollute much less than they used to. Why, now, they keep focusing on more stringent standards for cars instead of the bigger industrial polluters is for another thread... The best place is as close as you can get to the valves, without worrying about fires...

Ignition switch, or more likely, starter solenoid.

hi temp rtv

No I haven't. I just checked the PTU plugs and one of the two plugs on the harness side. After I posted I checked the other one, full of corrosion, like you said. I've cleaned it up, but haven't had time to test. I have a good feeling about it, though. Tons of corrosion.

I had the same problem on a 92TT, Auto. The speedo was intermittent before it died for good. I figured it wasn't the speed sensor after realizing the odo and whatnot kept ticking off. Took the dash out, took it apart and removed the speedo motor and circuit board. There was corrosion on the Speedo circuits. Not sure where it came from; thought it was a blown cap but after I cleaned it up it's been working fine. I soldered in a new wire to short the trace that corroded.