BLOZ UP

Cleaned it and reinstalled. Symptoms went away for a day, then out of the blue it died completely while cruising. Had to cycle the key to get it to restart. Died again further on the way home, cycled and it came back. Then sputtered the rest of the mile back home. Wondering if it may be the harness or something. Will see if I can get another PTU to test tomorrow.

Find your best launch RPM, then set your MS soft (retard above) and hard limits around it. May have to play around with RPM and retard values till you get some that hold the RPMs steadier. 0 or negative retardation worked best for me. Also I just set the flat shift limits at redline, but retarded quite a bit. Makes some good noise.

They should be HIDs...

The cold starts take the longest to tune, since, obviously, you can only try it once every 4 hours or so.

'92 TT, having misfiring issues while driving (only). It's exhibiting Series 1 PTU failure symptoms--but it has the service campaign PTU, the series 2. Multiple cylinder misfires, or complete loss of all cylinders during driving. Way more prominent when you get on it. Checking the harness and alarm as well. Anyone have a series 2 fail?

Have you tried reflashing it? I had all kinds of problems, that were solved by: Powering up the MS without the serial cable attached, then attaching it after the MS has power. Enabling the debug and send delay options. This is for MS2-Extra, 2.1.xxx though.

Ah, I see. I figured he was getting those wheels listed. I have some XXRs 513s in 16x8-0, didn't even bother to see if those 527s were also in RWD offsets

You should see if you really have oil pressure or if it's a gauge issue.

Those are pretty much FWD wheels.

Either because you have no oil pressure, or the oil pressure sending unit is borken, or maybe the gauge or some wiring inbetween is borken. However, the sending unit is a known problem on these cars. It's below the passenger side exhaust manifold, behind the oil filter. It's a lot of fun to get off...

Oh wait, no they're all being shipped off overseas, to go in some crazy Middle Eastern vehicle which will be driven on two wheels.

How many of these do you plan on going through?

It's an "innercooler".

Hey, come on, they aren't that bad. Z31 were dogs, so were 280ZXs when they came out.

Yeah, newer VG thing.

Has anyone told them that a Renault sign on the front of their car would be more fitting?

Looks pimp if you ask me. I wouldn't have gone with the multi-color scheme if I paid someone else, but if I could powder coat crap myself, my house would be a ******* clown show.

My friend and I could never get the closed loop boost control to work well, on a MS2-Extra box. He got it working in open loop mode while I went and got a Profec Type S, and never looked back. I will be getting one of these on my VG build.

It's going to be 20 degrees today. Celsius.

MegaJolt sounds like what you need: http://www.google.com/search?q=megajolt

Nothing like cold busted knuckles on a winter day...

2 Rad caps. Cool. I've been tempted to try out that maxima intake with the variable volume thing for a bit. What is that harness plug for, the one just below the distributor adjustment screw? I'm very interested in your design for the manifolds. I will need to do the same thing for my VG30/S30 swap.

Sportmaxxx XXR 513 (RB knock offs), 16x8, 225/50 g-Force TAs. Got the wheels from ebay, guy said they wouldn't fit in front with anything wider than 215. There's about 10mm of clearance with the 225s. The front caps don't fit though. Will need to paint the grease caps black. The rears stick out about 1/4". 215s would look better. The fronts are flush--if only the car was lower you'd be able to see. Yes, it does look like a 4x4 but much better than the OEM wheels. However, overall diameter is within 0.2" of the stock setup.

Or those stupid Bosch platinum plugs, I've only known of one turbo car that those actually work well in.

You should still be able to shift it while moving by pulling out of gear right when you let off and there's slack in the transmission, and then when the revs match the next gear and you are pushing the shifter slightly toward the next gear it should slip in when the speeds match up. If not the synchros are gone. Could also have a bent fork or two.