BLOZ UP

The cold causes LA batteries to output less, insulation to harden up, and resistance to drop (a little). But what makes you sure that it was the cold that caused it? I got a new coil for Xmas. Want my stock one? Still within spec.

Yes, but they are faster reacting since they are further up the stream. The narrow-bands are usually only for cruising, when the car is warmed up and in closed loop mode. Any high-load situation and car reverts to whatever its fuel map says with no adjustments. At least that's how it worked for most of the cars I worked on.

No, not going to happen. I'm not sure what you were trying to weasel in with that "equally across the radiator", but if you do not have enough coverage you will not cool the engine no matter what the CFM. Right. Properly SIZED fan, that's what I was getting at. I would get a 16" fan over a 12" fan each at K CFM. I never said it was. And as I said, but not in all caps: "If you don't have adequate coverage, you will overheat." Right. So, a 3000 CFM fan with, again, a fraction of coverage will also overheat. I'm glad we have come to an understanding. That doesn't seem so ludicrous to me. But proffer whatever you have to proffer so you can increase your internet ego. I never said that you could run whatever CFM as long as you had a shroud. I originally said that coverage was more important. However, I decided that I was wrong, and that it's equally important.

They lower temperatures, at least the ones for the VG do, by a small amount. I would do other mods before worrying about it. There are better ways to spend $100.

What kind of Honduh?

My 280Z has ones that pull off. There's a rubber tab within them that provides the resistance.

Ok, I can agree with this.

Lotus Elise, or Ariel Atom.

Camera?

I just heard the ECU was detuned, and that that was it. Don't really know, though.

This is different than in the US? That's usually how it is, set with the lowest common denominator in mind. I just wish we had inertial limits here. IE a 4000 lb SUV can only go 50 mph on the highway where as a Miata can go 65 mph. Too bad no one would follow them. Way too much involved in implementation anyway. I've driven in Europe a few times now. Each time I drove like a bat out of hell (in the rural parts, anyway), and I was clearly warned by signs indicating radar ahead. Oh wait, that wasn't in France. My TomTom warned me in France. I see how you can be upset. But they have to draw the line somewhere. 95 in a 90 is speeding. A lot of people (in the US) assume that you're allowed to go 5 mph over the limit. No, cops can pull you over for going 1 mph over. But they have better things to do. I have also wondered if people thought that they are "getting away with speeding" from their speedos being notoriously inaccurate at highway speeds. Cars in the 90s and early 2000s and earlier commonly read, say, 65 MPH when in fact you are going 60 mph.

What's the base of the pickup have on it? Is it a screen--like a oil pump pickup? What year is that tank?

What's he saying when he throws his hands up in the air?

I'll chime in this ancient thread as well. The VG30DE is an improved VG30E. They both can make very similar numbers... until about 5000 RPM where the VG30DE breathes much better. It also has improved coolant and oil circulation, nothing major. I wish they had ditched the timing belt for a chain though... Also, I6 engines are naturally balanced, and tend to produce more torque, everything else being the same.

That oil filter mount a JDM thing? 3.3L thing? Me want.

Your car will smell more like gas/death than normal.

There's little liberty lost when a person has to call a cab instead of driving on their own. I've known for a while that most drunk drivers do not get caught. If they do get caught, half of the time it's after they have wrecked. I think enacting a zero-tolerance policy would be the best solution, even if it does encroach on the "liberty" of a few people who can drive safely at low BAC levels. I just think it is too resource intensive to allow people to drink and drive and leave it up to the police, who are vastly outnumbered, to catch and determine who is over the limit and who isn't. If it is known from the beginning that no alcohol is allowed to be in your system when you drive, it will be much more clear to people who go to bars that no matter how much they think they won't be drinking, it's still illegal. But another problem is just driver's education. If that were worth anything in this country there would be less DUIs.

I think it's far easier to just insist on a zero tolerance policy. It's a lot better than trying to determine who can and can't drive at arbitrary BAC levels. This way drunks know that if they have had ANYTHING to drink, they shouldn't be driving. It's a bit harder to rationalize "oh it was just a couple beers" when the limit is at 0. In Germany and Luxembourg, at least, they have cheaper taxis late at night, and a lot more public transport. In Luxembourg, young kids also get a few free taxi rides whenever they turn 18 or whatever age it is where they can drink hard liquor. As for that ad, I bet if we'd get over our taboo on showing real "bad things" on TV, those ads would be very effective here. Better than the "You drink, you drive, you lose" crap that drunks drive by and can't see straight to read them in the first place. Show them what really happens when you drink and drive. Just a few days ago some moron in an F250 drove straight through the ******* fence at our barn. Ripped 3 posts and their concrete bases out of the ground. Luckily it was late at night and in one of the pastures that's only in use during the day. Being the typical drunk driver, he drove off. Luckily he left half of his bumper along with his license plate. It's a good $3,000 worth of fence. I wish the owners would sue him for all he's worth. That could have easily been my horse, or a house, or a person.

I use an 89 Z32TT for the "80s Car Race" to get quick cash. I wish they would tell you how much cash you get before you enter each race.

Are you sure you still have catalyst? Or did the PO punch it out?

Negative, speed isn't what kills, it's the inability to stop in time.

If you have a fan with a certain CFM covering only part of your radiator, and then add a shroud it will cool better. You can have a million CFM but if it's only covering 1/10 of your radiator it's going to overheat. I suppose you're right though, coverage isn't more important. It's equally important.

I would find where they are hooked up and disconnect them there. They are the leads for the ammeter, and they can carry quite a lot of current before the fusible link blows. EDIT: Duh, it has to have everything drawing current through it to measure it correctly. See below.

Coverage matters more than cfm, make sure you get a shroud for it or buy one that has a shroud.

The blocks are not exactly the same.