BLOZ UP

The blocks are not exactly the same.

I would get an electric fan, preferably a kit that contains the temp probe and switch, so it's all automated. You'll never have to worry about it again, and it gets rid of that stupid stock clutch fan sound.

You're barking up the wrong tree.

I'm eventually doing this. I have a complete running drivetrain, and an S30... I just don't want to make my S30 non-running for some indefinite time period.

Looks great, sounds great. But it's missing 2 cylinders... Just kidding. Mods?

No, the quicker he goes, the more it is. F = MA. I would say if he ran a 30 second 1/4 mile, it would be insignificant. It can be alleviated by using wheelie bars, or whatever the FWD equivalent is called. But FWD cars are designed to be cheap to manufacture, and they understeer. Put the same powerplant in a RWD car and it would go faster, assuming the weights are the same.

When the laws of physics break and the weight shifts toward the front wheels when you launch.

VG: Better combustion chamber design, less prone to detonation (but not the best, by far), better response to mods, a bit harder to work on, uses timing belt. L: Timing chain, sounds cooler, bolt on mods are more available.

Yeah, instead it looks rough in some parts. I'm totally in on a Sunday night race.

I like how they condensed the UI down to just a few places, instead of having to go all over the map. But, at the same time I dislike how there aren't any more one-make races and whatnot. There also seem to be a lot fewer races altogether. And the stupid car delivery thing? Why the extra steps? I hate how you can't use each color more than once. The mods for each car seem really odd. And, no more 1200 hp skylines it seems. I miss all the adjust-ability that GT4 had when you got the fully custimizable transmission and suspension. It's a lot simpler now. I liked being able to set my camber to +12 degrees, dammit! The AI seems a lot more aware that you exist, though. Still runs you off the course every once and a while, but I suppose that's somewhat realistic (iow - keep an eye on the cars around you). Does anyone know if the oil change trick works on new cars like in GT3/GT4? $60 for 200 new cars and 800+ of the same models from GT4? I would have rather waited... So far I have a Z33, Z32TT, Z31, and S130. I saw a S30 right when I started but haven't seen one since. Level 13 working on leveling up to 15 to get the Super license.

Both the brakes and gas seem to be on-off buttons for him. The first time he went off track or lost control, I would have said, "Stop right ******* now and let me out!"

Yeah, ECU and solenoid problems are the least of your worries. VTEC just uses oil pressure to switch cam profiles. Squirting oil in the head without another cam profile to use it will just... squirt oil in the head. The biggest problem with this is that the L head cannot accept another profile, and you would have to find a head that fits that already has VVT.

It's kind of hard to judge X lbs by feel, because X lbs feels the same at 8" or 16", which would be totally different torque values.

I wasn't trying to say that. I was saying that you should hook two torque wrenches together, one known accurate one and the one in question, and torque them against each other. They should both read the same torque. I just couldn't sort out in my mind how to hold them both still without affecting the torque values.

I used to be a Snap-On/Blue-Point fanatic, but now I source most of my simple tools from Harbor Freight. However, buying a quality impact is a must, as well as the ratchets you can get from SO/BP/Sears/Cornwell/Mack/Whatever are much higher quality. As for the actual sockets and extensions, files, snips, and other tools: HF all the way. Even some of the air tools from HF aren't half bad.

I am having the same thoughts about mine. I imagined some contraption involving a known good wrench, a vice, some type of bearing or something to allow twisting through the vice, and two people pushing against each other and measuring the difference between the two.

Wait, you are in the middle of one engine swap, picked up a car for $500 and want to swap an engine in that... and make it a daily? Nothing wrong with any of that except the last part.

Here's a photo of my radio: I thought I had a better shot of it, but that's what I could find. Maybe later. What I am trying to show is that the color is green on the radio; it matches the dash illumination pretty well. Mission failed. Maybe after finals I can try again.

The car didn't have louvers when I bought it. I am keeping these. The threads in the hole are stripped, not the bolt, nor is the bolt broken. I'm not too concerned, since it does not require fixing.

I've been busy with school but in between solving differential equations and stabbing my eyes out over surface integrals, I managed to get a few things done on the Z. It's the cheapest one from Summit I could find. $85 bucks and it flows more than the auto parts store replacement that was installed. It was also cheaper even with Summit's "free" shipping. The instructions it came with said 3/8" inlet, but it lied. Summit's website stated 5/16", and it was correct. No worries, though, since the 3/8" inlet screws right on it. They are all made by the same factory in China, I'm sure. I also had installed a cheap Autozone carb fuel filter before the pump. It gets clogged within a mile of driving, so the tank really, really, needs to be cleaned again (by someone who will guarantee their work this time). I don't want to kill this new pump, so I haven't driven it very much at all since installing it. I also bought an automatic antenna from Autozone. I really didn't want to have a permanent antenna sticking out all the time. Plus, this one came with the angled mount that I needed. The others didn't seem to have any options. It was a little pricy, but I'm thinking it will be worth it in the end. Installation was straightforward, but the stock harness requires a little modification for it to work. You can use the original switch, but my switch had been replaced and I didn't like it. My new radio had an antenna lead, so I decided to make it all automatic. You have to remove the antenna switch, hack up the harness and connect the +12v ACC to the constant +12v for the antenna. I routed the blue wire from the harness (+12v ACC) to the L/R wire going to the antenna for that. So the antenna will only work when the car is at least on ACC. The antenna lead from the aftermarket radio went to the L/W wire to the L antenna wire. This is the switched +12v. Then connect the grounds, and you are done. The antenna will go up and down as you turn on and off the radio, but if you turn the car off before turning off the radio tuner, the antenna will stay up. Not a big deal to me. Finally, I tested the compression pressure. Not so good, it was. PSI 140 142.5 136 140 138 137.5 I added oil to #3, it only went up 5-8 psi. I'm thinking the valves are all nasty. The thing is one of the slowest cars I've driven, and it appears to be getting ~10MPG. The spark plugs indicated a rich condition... I also took off the valve cover while I was there, just to see what it looked like. Besides having one stripped valve cover bolt hole on the head, it looked great. No sludge that I can see. That's cheap oil that I put in right after I bought it, too, so maybe someone took good care of this thing, and/or it really does have low miles. I hate stripped threads though, especially on bolt holes. Ugh.

There's some here in TX. I have a few pairs. Not for sale You can still get them from the auto parts store, reman'd, but available. At least here.

460 duration? It's open more than 100% of the time?

BRAKES

There seem to be quite a few less races than in GT4. And the UI navigation is better in some respects, and worse in others. Like having to ******* press OK to load the game when I first start it. What idiot thought that was a good idea. And why do I have to click on car delivery, click on the car I want, click on yes, then wait for it to load, then click on no (to not get in the car), then click on OK (for the paint chip), and only then is the car in my garage. Have fun if you have more than one car waiting for delivery. WTF? Do they not play these games through before they release them to see how annoying some of the UI crap is?

They had a level 0 240ZG at the used car lot when I first started... too bad it was $29,000 and I only had $20,000 I got an '01 tiburon and put a huge wing on it instead.