gvincent

I know this is an old post but I have been searching for the Koni bump stop part number. I ordered my Ground Control coil over kit with Tokico Illumines and 225 front and 250 rear springs for my V8/T56 280Z and I don't want to put in Poly Bump Stops from what I have been reading. Thanks

The clutches are on their way from Gary. this weekend is the last weekend of the car season in New England. I am lining up everything for my winter Project list which is growing. I will be swapping out the LT1 for another I built this year, will do clutch and a lightened or aluminum flywheel, Ground control coilovers on all 4 corners, Pull the CLSD and replace the clutches, If I can find a good deal on companion flanges adaptors I will swap in my 300ZXT CV axles and finally still debating and if I have the money to go to discs in the rear or stay with the drums for another year. John gave some good arguments on front to rear bias being more important than brute braking, i'm not ready to start playing with Proportioning valves yet. RebelahsZ I will give you a call when i get to the diff, probably doing the struts/coilovers first, will pull the diff the same time I remove the rear struts and axles.

Thanks Guys, I just sent a message to Gary, after reading various threads I was not looking forward to the OBX alternative.

I know a few years ago there was somebody here making these discs and selling them but I haven't seen anything in a couple of years. I need to rebuild my differential this winter and found this rebuild kit online from FRSPORT.COM the kit can be viewed here: http://www.frsport.com/L-S-D--Repair-Parts-Mechanical-LSD-R… Is it worth it? Are there any other suppliers anybody knows of? I have never rebuilt a differential but I am willing to give it a try. They want $290 for the clutch repair kit. Should I go with an OBX? I see that they require a bit of work as they are not ideal out of the box, needing all bolts replaced and reconfiguring the clutch/washer stack and some difficulty getting everything aligned for re-assembly I am hoping for somebody with more experience than me to chime in with their opinions. Thanks, Greg

So what is the benefit of going with a higher rate up front than the rear, is this a new trend? traditionally through my searches here and on other sites most have been higher rates in the rear. so what i'm getting here is 200/250 for mostly street, 250/300 for a bit more track? don't know if GC offers a 225/275 package off the top of my head.

Who has coilover suspensions on their V8 Z cars and what spring rates are you using and why? I am about to order the Ground Control Coilover kit but can't decide what spring rates. My 76 280Z Z has an LT-1 V8 and a Tremec T56 six speed so I have to consider the additional weight. form a L6 Z Mostly street driven but do do about 4-5 track days a year, currently have stock strut tubes with Mulholland lowering springs and Tokico Illumines struts

Reviving an old thread here I guess. did you ever determine at what height to weld your GC perch? I too have a 280Z Scarab with Old School Mulholland lowering springs and Tokico Illumina shocks, a tad low but I like it. so I will do bolt in camber plates down the road but for now I want to remove the stock spring perch use the GC coil over kit weld the new perch and then re-install my struts with the Tokico's to get additional clearance for wider rims and tires. I need new tires and want to go wider. I will call GC and ask their advice and also ask about recommended spring rates for a V8, T56 280Z Mostly car is driven during the the warm months and an occasional track day or two.

Mdantonio, any updates? Do you have emblems we can buy? Have you started the registry? It's been over a year I would love to get this going again Let me know what I can do to help Greg

Going to order the 60MM fittings and pipe, I hope its the right size

OK, I removed the AFM, the rubber mother boot from hell with all the other hose connections and the J shaped pipe from the outlet of the turbo to the throttle body on my 83 280ZX stock turbo mounted in my 78 280Z I measured the outlet side fairly easily at 2-1/8" which is about 54mm I tried to measure the inlet but it is still hard to see the tape measure but I am getting 2-3/8" or about 60mm Do these number sound right? I really want to buy some pipe and fittings can somebody confirm these dimensions? Does anybody have a stock turbo set-up out of the car they cam measure? I am probably going to buy some 60mm pipe and fittings to get me through the front hole and use a 90 degree elbow then go from 60mm to 80mm to attach the stock AFM, I'll have to extend the AFM wires Tony D, I already removed the stock 280Z AFM mount knowing there was no way I was gong to fit the turbo AFM in the engine bay

They were shot by 2 different people one on a droid and one with an iPad, both play ok for me on Quick Time player on my Mac Book Pro, I just downloaded from this sight and played them again ok Don't know what to tell you except maybe your player doesn't support .mov?

here is a couple from 4 or 5 years ago some VID_20110825_174454.mov 280Z black Beast startup.mov Those are not my voices the videos LOL building the exhaust

Yeah there were quite a few variations from mild to really wild, i say yours is closer to the later. my side pipe exhaust I made is straight from the headers 2.5" pipe to a 2.5" 40" x4" Jones glass pack to a 3" tip chrome exhaust. I welded studs to the glass packs and used hi temp isolation sandwich bushings and drilled holes in the rocker panel the size of the isolation inside ring aligned the holes line up with the existing factory holes on the inside and bolted the glass pack and sandwich mounts together from the inside. All the off the shelf side pipes are way too restrictive this way I was able to have 2.5ID all the way. Here is another Scarab Brochure

Thanks Tony, i was going to buy some pipe and couplers but will look for a Z31 inlet duct also. I would like to confirm that the stock inlet size is 60mm as I can't find a definite yes answer anywhere and can't get to the car until more snow melts I have been trying to take a crush course on turbos here at HybridZ and always seem to come to posts with you as the expert in all these posts I have read so far, I'll be reading more and will start posting some questions once I feel I have gained a little knowledge on the turbo swap Thanks again Greg

Here is the old JCR catalog and a few other pictures the JCR California Z kit also had the whale tail I have a bunch more pictures of different variations of Scarabs and California Z's

those rear flares look an awful lot like the JCR California Z Flares, I love those flares and have been looking off and on for a set for years. I never liked the front flares on the JCR California Z with the square headlights and prefer the Subtle-Z looking front flares, I would definitely go for a set of fronts and rears. Not a Whale tail fan I prefer the aggressive IMSA GT 3 piece spoiler incorporated into a JCR rear flare. wire mesh/screening for the openings are a nice touch as well. Here are some pics of my current Scarab set-up

New to Turbo cars and am putting an 83 Turbo into my 78 280Z, I want to keep the AC and am installing an 2.5" intercooler, I have no workable space to install the AFM easily in the engine bay so I am going to have to mount it in front of the radiator, condenser, intercooler and oil cooler. I will have to extend the AFM wiring and fabricate some sort of mount. My question is I now know I will have to source the 80MM hose and reduce it down to the turbo outlet size but I am not sure what size hose will fit the turbo outlet and if I should run such a long length and a 90 degree elbow and then the 80MM adaptor. Is it 2.5" or closer to 66MM? I just did a web search for T-3 inlet diameter and got 3", 2.25" and 2" ok so what size is the stock unit???

Any sightings or garage finds for these flared fenders?

I need the short hose from the compressor to the condenser anybody got one they want to get rid of?

Couldn't get either one to respond to my reply so still looking

Looking for a set of Jim Cook Racing (JCR) California Z rear fenders and bumper, Haven't seen any on Ebay or Craigslist for a year or so. I really liked the look of the rear fenders of this kit, but will buy the whole kit if your not interested in separating. Please PM or email me, I don't check this forum everyday Thanks

Well after reading all the posts on this old thread I was hoping to find a solution. My 83280ZXT swap into a 78 280Z is at the same stage as MotoManmike, in the second video post #45 It runs exactly the same it will idle roughlyand sometimes smooth it's self out, can't mash the go pedal as it just sputters and backfires through the intake, can slowly softly step on the gas to try and feather it up to RPMs but can't tell it won't go with a a load, can hear the turbo spool. I dropped the fuel tank in the the 280Z and had it boiled out, blew out all the fuel lines, new Walbro pump, new fuel filter and new fuel pressure regulator. I was reading 30 pounds just before the rail after the filter. (I have it wired through the 5 second start/run relay) I have a question on the Voltage drop at the fuel pump which is standard for the 280Z as it varies the fuel pump between full voltage and 9.5 volts should I remove this as the Walbro would probably like the full 12V?? Only reason I ask is in my LT1 V8 conversion I am running a huge Mallory FI pump and It needed larger gauge wire than the stock wires to run right and not blow fuses Is there a place to download the 83 280ZXT FSM? I think I have the 82 ZX Time to break out the meter and I'll start posting my findings, Hopefully I can workout a final resolution to this thread as my case is very similar. Greg

Welcome to the LT1/T56 Club, your going to love it when done. Hey I grew up in Encino on Karen Drive many many years ago

zentech, PM sent

I need a good working 280z Headlight/Wiper Switch assembly the assembly has to be from a 74 260Z or a 75 and 76 280Z the 77-78 assembly will not work I will also take the turn signal assembly if you also have that. I have no headlights right now and need a switch assembly right away Please email me with what you have gregory.vincent@comcast.net thanks Greg