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Everything posted by gvincent
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Hey guys read the post, Drop me an email and I will send you a bunch of my old price lists from parting out. It's on the computer at work so I can send it out on Monday, I also got a lot of advice from the real expert Clive, evilZ, in fact he sent me one of his LS1 camaro part out lists and what he sold stuff for as well when I strated parting out. They are 3-4 years old now but you'll get the idea of what stuff is worth. The most wanted pieces from the Trans AM were: #1 the plastic shifter boot ring, you can name your price on this item, they are all broken and no longer made. I wish I knew this I sold it for $15 and then had people offering me up to $80 for it. #2 Side skirts #3 Firebirds especially the hard plastic top dash panel with the defroster vents, They are all usually cracked #4 anything to do with the pop up headlights #5 Honeycomb tailights and the center Bird panel #6 drivers side front fender #7 Rear spoiler, I sold my whole rear deck to one guy #8T-Tops and everything with them for an install into a hard top roof, yes this is a rather easy mod and common, under the hardtop there is factory welded mounts for the t-tops all you need to do is cut the skin along the line. you need the one piece door/roof gaskets intact so be real careful in removing them, go slowly separating the glue, save and package all the screws clips other trim pieces etc and sell as a package. #9 The 10 bolt rear end check for 3 or 4 wire and if posi you can get some good money for it #10 Catalytic converters are always in need Front bumper, rear bumper, power mirrors. Oh an uncraked battery tray/overflow bottle, they are all cracked. I know I'll think of more when I look at my old lists. Greg
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I use TunerCAT and and a 95 OBD1 ECU, also did my own harness gut from a 95 Trans Am. Most guys on LSI/LTI.com say the 95 ECU is the best and the 96-97 guys with OBD2 usually swap to an OBD1, supposed to give you more variables in tuning and doesn't need the catback Oxy simulators. There is scanner software available also, FreeScan comes to mind cause it is free ( I'm no pro at tuning and will probably try and locate an old LT1 tuner and have him do my final tune after get around to stroking my other LT1 motor. Try and find an old laptop with a serial port, do not trust the USB to serial adaptors, I think there are some topics about this and destroying the ECU, some do use it though. I think the TunerCAT site had info on this a few years back, the various Camaro and Impala forums all have tech sections as well. OXY and Knock sensors are very important, if you are going to run a lumpy cam and headers get the knock sensor and knock module (inside the ECU) from the Corvette ECU they are more tolerable to a lumpy idle, the B or F body ECU will throw codes and mess with the timing thinking the lumpy cam is a knock. Driven, Nice work! welcome, nice to have more LT1 people on board to bounce questions off of, we keep loosing LT1 swaps to the LS1 guys.
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Thanks Guys for all the updates. I really wish the Admins would let me add all this good info to the first post, oh well.... So it seems that two members experiences with the Celica (Padam07 and KJ280Z) had to either cut out and weld the hump or beat it to death to mount their seats. The 2001-2005 Honda S2000 seats are beautiful fairly easy to install but watch the height may not be a good fit for tall drivers. The late 80's Prelude seats fit fairly easily but are hard to come by in good condition but are comfortable. Keep em coming! Thanks, Greg
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OK I tried this, I can go to my gallery and view all my old pictures but can't add to them??? (Under My Content, select Gallery Tab) I then went to the My Settings as suggested and it comes back with no albums, create you first album??? I just want to add pics to my existing gallery Do I need to re-upload all 123 pictures and put them into different albums? so what happens to my original gallery pics? Being super stupid or just plain confused here Any help is appreciated Thanks, Greg
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How to enable "edit post" to keep original post updated
gvincent replied to gvincent's topic in Site Support
Any progress on this? my 280Z swap list thread keeps growing but you have to read the whole thread, Oh well I guess no new stickies are allowed if we can't update the thread, even if we are the original poster. I never did get a response from an admin Greg -
Getting the Black Beast ready for another season of fun, going to work on the Silver Bullet again
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Well... Time To Join The "Hybrid Z" Generation
gvincent replied to SSuspect's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Welcome, YEAH another LT1 to join us. 76 280Z LT1, T56, R200CLSD -
Those seats look great!, S2000 seats are still very pricey up in NE area though, I would love to find a deal on them though, they do look nice and look like they belong in there. The seat front looks a little high though. Thanks, Greg
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Walbro 255 Fuel pump very loud!
gvincent replied to kj280z's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
I'm about to install a Walbro 255 in my 280Z with an LT1, Yeah I know wrong forum but I too have had a lot of fuel pump issues. Here is my history: Bought a Mallory 110FI pump, had the stock fuel rails modified with -6AN fittings, ran new 6-an braided hose for send and return lines. welded up a mount in the stock fuel pump location, the Mallory has it's in and out on the bottom sides so both are very low. I even mounted the Mallory with rubber isolation bolts and nuts so there is no metal to metal touching to transmit vibration. (well the braided fuel lines but they are not solid) I ran a 1/2" hose from the tank to a huge long 100 micron filter with -8an fittings in and out then another very short piece of 1/2 hose to the pump inlet with -8an fittings. I have a -8an to -6an 90 degree fitting mated to the braided -6an hose to the front drivers side fuel rail. I mounted a brand new Aeromotive FRP 10" from the passenger fuel rail mounted on the firewall and attached to the -6an braided hose back to the 280Z tank. Just before returning to the tank I have a "T" fitting that connects to a smaller third fitting on the very bottom of the fuel pump and back to the tank. I didn't have this T fitting before and would notice the pump would run hot and slow down and did not like being below a half tank. The T fitting did improve but sometimes the pump would sound like it was cutting out sometimes and I would loose power, I have not been able to run WOT without starvation yet. I sent the pump back to Mallory for a rebuild ($50) re-installed it and it runs the same, still noisy, still has moments where it sounds like it wants to stop but got me through all last season but still no WOT. So enter a Paxton pump which is the same as an Aeromotive A1000, very loud and could not maintain a constant pressure, the fuel pressure gauge at the FPR would jump all over the place, sent it back and re-installed the Mallory. Took the Z out for it's first run last saturday and after an hour the pump sounded like it would quit on me, it would seem like it stopped for a 1/4 second about every minute or two. Limped it home. I will remove the Mallory for a 3rd time and get it rebuilt again for free and put the Walbro I just bought in. I will let you know the results. Oh the Aermotive FPR does not hold pressure, never has, I called and they said that as long as it passes the pressure test and has no fuel coming out the vacum fitting all is well? I am begining to wish maybe I should of done the Z28/Firebird tank swap, but a frien of mine can't get it to work with the Datsun fuel gauge...another story Thanks, Greg -
Seth, I'll bring the beast up to your place some time in May when your ready so you can check it out. I had a big winter to do list but didn't get anything done due to lack of work space and a bad back. The back is better now and the weather is getting warmer...I hope soon I'm going to try and make the 4/16 inspection charity event at AC imports in NH. I need to jack the car up and get under to check for a small exhaust leak, change the oil and if I have the time the fuel pump swap out was on my winter to do list. maybe it will cure my WOT starvation problem. Later I still need to figure out why I can't get my AutoMeter electric speedo to work off the T56 , I have to have a wiring problem, I hate digging into the dash again. Well I have to swap out front spoilers due to the last show mishap last fall, I have a Type III MSA spoiler I need painted gloss black, I'll repair or get the Type II spoiler repaired and put it on the 78Z when I get that car painted late summer/early fall I'm hoping, I'll give your paint guy a call, Thanks Greg
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Careful which AC delete pulley you get, it will hit the frame rail, I ended up replacing the huge pulley and used the smallest Idler pulley I could find to fit the pulley delete mount pulley shaft. Also there is an Power steering delete pulley kit available which I switched to after having problems shredding serpetine belts every 30 miles with my own delete system I fabricated didn't work. I think I listed the GM part number for the pully somewhere in a thread on this site, if not I can probably find it for you. Also the power steering part is also listed in a thread on this site as well I think Deja and I discussed it a couple of times, you have to replace one of the bolts that comes with the kit with a good #8 longer bolt. Yes you have to remove the AC, it is right where the JTR mounts want to go. I also mounted the Sanderson headers WITH gaskets! before I dropped the motor in. Now is a good time to mount the EGR block off plates. A few people have had better luck with the newer 1997-2002 f body plastic gas tanks, I am still running a stock 76 280Z tank and an external pump and filters. If you are running the stock FPR for the LT1 you will need the GM QwiK Connect to AN fitting adaptors to run standard AN fuel lines, I ran Steel Braided flex hose, other have run new solid lines with short flex at either end. Outside pumps are noisy and I have tried several with mixed results, I am going to try a third soon as I have fuel starvation at WOT. Oh, the 75-76 280Z fuel tank is the only one that will fit an early Z, the 77-78 280Z tank will not fit. Also you need to remove the very important knock sensor on the block and plug the hole, coolant will pour out, The Sanderson headers won't clear. I drilled and tapped the flat JTR plate in a location that cleared the steering shaft and screwed in the knock sensor there. Seth, feel free to call me or email me here or through the ZCCNE for any questions. Oh,Yes, please refer your paint guy, I have another in RI I am going to check his work this weekend. Can't have enough paint guys!
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Those VW recaros look nice, what did they come out of? Let us know how the install goes, I know it's a 240Z so we would still be interested in how much clearance you have so we can figure out our 280Z drivers side hump. Thanks, Greg
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Good score, I got mine for $2,200, kept everything I needed and still sold over $5,400 in parts! It took over a year of selling and shipping and I still have a few pieces kicking around to sell. Hope to see your Z this summer at ZCCNE events, Nice to have another LT1Z around. I like to talk to you about paint sometime, I need to have my other turbo Z painted Greg
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Don't have swap meets like that on the east coast, anyway it seems it will not get in the way for shifting and yeah the holders are small, I may look into cutting it up and making the holes bigger and taller and then recovering it in a glued down soft pleather. I'll scrounge the junkyards for some ideas on modifying it as soon as it gets warm enough to melt all this damm snow! Actually just noticed from everyones pics the older ones it seems are much shorter, I got an older short one, I'll try it for a while and then decide to mod it or go with making a single holder for the ashtray and sell this one. Greg
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Received the console cup holder today, I'll take it home and see how it fits this weekend. If I don't like it I'll put it in the classified section for what it cost me. Thanks, Greg
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Great! Keep us posted. Thanks John.
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It won't cost you anything to pull the heads and drop the pan and see what you find, then decide which way to go.
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I ended up buying the one from Daniel off of Ebay, He is shipping it this week. I'll let everyone know how it fits a "Bigger calorically challenged person" Thanks, Greg
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JHM, Thanks, the same thing for $20 less! So no large coffees or Ice coffees. I would like one to fit where the ashtray is but only single cup and bigger size hole, the passenger can hold their own! or one that hangs or attaches to the passenger side of the console but still in reach? I usually just rest a drink on the ashtray cover and hold it when cornering or braking, a pain while shifting though always afraid of it spilling. I was hoping one of the two guys from this thread would come forward with their ashtray/cup holder mods http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/69658-cheap-fix/
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Anybody have the MSA Console Arm Rest / Cup Holder, for the 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z? found here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-2570 I'm tired of driving and trying to hold a hot or cold beverage between my legs. I know some have modified the ashtray in the past but I couldn't get any info from the old posts Does it get in the way while shifting? Is it at a comfortable resting height or is it even useful to rest your elbow/arm? Looking for some feedback on people who have or have had these before I drop 100 bucks on one of these. Thanks, Greg
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Any new 280Z seat swaps lately? I am weathering this NE winter and itching to get back to the Z car and thought I would start searching for seats again.Icapture, how did the BMW 325is series seat work out? please send pics. What year 3 series? I found some on Craigslist that I emailed, no year was listed though.
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Love that battery holder..Custom made?
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Hey Congrats! Feels good doesn't it! Jack the front end up a little it helps to "Burp" the LT1. Alrighty! another LT1Z. Greg
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I wish I had a Rag's Garage I could use
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Thanks for the info, I will order a pair Greg