PETEW

After soooooo many questions and being a royal pain in everyones arse, I finally have some pics to show. Sorry for the poor quality but it was dark out and the garage lights are only so good for pics. I want to thank Ross for all his help. The stuff he sells is top notch. The brakes are from Arizona Z. They seem very nice as well, very simple to put together. Thanks for everyones help, I really do appreciate it. Notice the brakes are getting rusty from all the rain we have been getting, even though it is in a garage (acid from me handling them alot doesn't help ). This is the rear Coilovers. Notice the CV adapter and aluminum bracket for disk brakes. Better shot of the adapter Here is a shot of the front Modern Motorsports coil over and Arizona Z Brakes.MMMMMM.

Sorry for the poor pictures but I just took them real quick tonight. I don't have them on the car yet but should by this weekend. I bought them from johnc (thanks). They are 16x9 Monocoques.

The plain truth is she's just another piece of white trash. No one calls her that because she is so f'n rich. She is just another waste of breath that will fade away, like what beauty she has.

Well I have been looking at my bump stops and it looks like the last 1/2" is where the true stop is. It is a solid piece at that point. The rest of the bump stop is tapered. I am thinking that I could take a 1/4" off the back and a 1/4 " off the front, giving me an extra 1/2" to work with. Looks lke it will be a pain, but it might really help me in the long run. I don't know I'm still trying to go over everything in my mind.

No one has any answers to either question. The only reason that I brought the bump stop idea is that almost two inches seems excessive. I would think 1" would do the job and allow some more travel. Maybe my thought process is faulty (it often is). Is 1" not enough stopper to prevent bottoming? Just looking to see if someone has tried this, or has thought of something I haven't. Thanks.

Question #1. I am putting my coil overs together: Struts not sectioned 200lb front 225lb rear springs 8" spring front and rear 16 x 9 wheels w/ 245/45 kumho tires 280Z with turbo motor and I am wondering if I should cut my bump stop in half (it is the suspension techniques 1.75" urethane). I am looking to lower the car 2" so I am thinking if I cut the urethane bump stop it allows me another 7/8" of travel while still providing a stop to help keep the strut from blowing. Did any one else do this? Is that not enough Bump stop? Question #2 Since my wheels are 9" wheels, 245/45 are the smallest tire I can put on them. I can't find any tire that is wider except for autocross tires. If I would buy full tread depth autocross tires how long would they last? If I could get close to 10K miles out of them I would consider it. I just don't know if they can really be used on the road, even though they are considered street legal. Thoughts? Thanks for all your help guys. I am going to post some pics of the struts and wheels in the next day or so after I get some answers on the bump stop issue. I can't believe, I will be able to put this thing on the ground again.

One word for you. BEAUTIFUL.

THE HORROR! OH GOD THE HORROR!!

Looks good so far John. If you make anything like subframe connectors that you would sell, I would be willing to anty up some dough. Hope the business takes off for you, but not so much that you can't race.

If you want the stock thread pitch (1.25) than you are very limited. You can buy the NISMO studs which are 2.5" long but cost $8/stud or $65/ ten pack. Or you can go the inexpensive route like me and get studs for a Nissan Quest, that about 1 13/16" from head to end of stud, for about $1.29. I don't know how long you have to go, but they are much longer than stock fronts on a 280Z and about 3/16" longer than the drum rears. Hope this helps.

When I bought my SDS I told them I had 370cc injectors (SVO). Does that mean the basic map that they put in is based of that injector size? I would assume so. I am very intersted in this post since I have a feeling that I will have to move up to 440cc injectors when I put in a hybrid turbo and run big boost. I am so glad there are guys like Scottie to help out.

I would LOVE to buy a 944. They are an extremely well balanced car. They can lap a track within tenths of a more powerful 911. Just goes to show you that a balanced, easy handling car can make up for power. Is you 944 an S version. They say they are the ones to get. Man nice choice in a car.

Holy Freakin Crap! Man I love those cars on Gran Turismo, but the real thing looks even more impressive. Why can't we get those cars.

Hey guys, I have a '77 280 with a stress crack on the passenger b pillar (car came with it). I plan on putting in sub frame connectors and I have an Autopower 4 point rollbar. My question is this. If there are cracks in the pillar allready does that mean the frame is twisted, or is this just a warning sign that bad things will happen if it isn't strengthened. I'd hate to put all these things in only to find that the frame is tweaked. Thanks.

I'm not sure what your point is here. Are you saying that we should fight for 3rd world countries so they can have better safer work enviornments, or..... We can't go fighting everyones battles. People are going to hate us no matter what we do. The same country that we give Billions of dollars of aid one year has people burning the flag a few months later. Even though the American companies pay them nothing, it is the only job available so it is better than nothing. It's easy to say we should all hold hands and sing Give Peace a Chance but it ain't gonna happen. Don't anyone fool yourself into thinking that the Americans are the only one taking advantage of the cheap labor. There are plenty of other countries riding in the same boat. The world is a screwed up place (just watch the news), I would just like to see it get better for my kids.

That was a nice run. Looked the V8 had you out of the hole but the second 1/8th in your car looks like you make some serious power. Turbos seem to like the larger gears, gives them time to spool I guess. Good job, now it's time to start looking for 11's.

Sparky, While that all sounds good on paper, what do you think is going to happen to this country as more and more products are imported in and more people can't find a good paying job. I don't care if the calculator only costs $5 instead of $12, if you don't have a job then you don't have money to spend on that calculator. Everyone getting an education sounds like a nice plan, but not many people have $60K dollars laying around. And that would be for a state school in PA. If everyone would get an education than there would be an influx of people looking for office jobs and where would all these jobs come from. Face it, this country is still very much a manufacturing country and if that goes we are going to be in big trouble. Do I have the answers, NO. But I do know that if we just keep letting everyting be manufactured outside the country and export nothing then we are doomed. Thee has to be some sort of balance and there isn't one. I have a feeling tough times are going to be reeling thier head in the not too distant future.

I thought mantis was the show that was about a black guy who was crippled and had a suit (that he designed) that gave him super powers. I don't know. There are too many shows on, and I have too much to do. Either way, strange car but neat.

Sorry if I have confused everyone. I just felt it would be fun to have everyone feel like me. Ross, I apologize if I made it sound like I couldn't get a hold of you. That was not the case. You are usually very quick in your responses and your product is absolutely stunning. I just know that you have other things to do other than answer my stupid questions. Next time I will go to you directly. Thanks to everyone that tried to help me. I will have pics of my beautiful suspension up the next week.

The booklet that comes with the SDS is very generic (obviously it has to be in order to be used with anything) and doesn't really give you much info on what to remove. I was wondering if the guys using it could show me some pics of your engine bay so I can see what you ripped out. I am putting it on my '83 turbo motor and I am not sure what I should yank, as far as emisions, etc., and what to leave. An example is did you guys take the EGR and all the miscellaneous hoses out with it. If so, what did you use to plug the holes left. I am assuming you can take all that stuff out, but I don't want to go crazy and yank everything only to find out I have to put something back. Thanks for the help.

Tim and Spotfitz, did you guys section your struts? I am just trying to compare to what you guys are doing. It sounds like the rest of your setups are very close to mine. I think I will try and get a hold of Ross, too. He has been hard to find recently.

Auxilary, I looked at all the threads that you had with KYB but none of them really seemed to answer his question. They all mention KYB struts, but none of them answer weather or not they are ok with coil overs. From what I heard they are not strong enough for the high spring rates, so they die very early deaths. Maybe someone else has used this combo with success. I don't know, just telling you what I heard.

There has got to be a way to figure out where to mount this steel collar, besides trial and error. I would think there would be some sort of formula to figure out where it needs to be. Tim, it sounds like you are using a very similar setup to mine. I have Ross' 8" coil overs with 200 up front and 225 out back. I am going to have 245/45-16 (mounted on 16x9's) all around for now. I just want to lower the center of gravity a little not make it scrape the ground. If I decide to section I will do it later. I would prefer not to and have shocks made for the car, instaed of mr2 shocks. Man, it's always the little crap that turns into a big problem that frustrates the hell out of you.

Tim, when you say it sits 1-1.5 " too high, do you mean for your liking or higher than stock. I am looking to lower my car only 2" to start, that is why I am not sectioning my struts. Do you still think I need to weld the steel bushing below the stock perch weld? How are you suppopsed to figure this out before welding it on and making a mistake?

In my instructions from Ross it says "Be sure to allow at least 1/8" or so gap from the top of your strut tube to the top of your threaded tube (varies depending on your tube length and spring length, inquire about your specific combo) so you can easily install/remove your strut tube gland nut without your gland nut wrench torquing on the threaded aluminum tube." I am not sectioning my struts at this time and I have 8" coils all around. I am assuming that I should stay with the 1/8 from the top #, but maybe there is a reason to go lower. Is there??? I want to take these to the welder today, so I figured I would ask quick. Last thing I want is to get them welded and find out they should welded in a lower spot. Thanks guys.