OlderThanMe

I say a Miata...you can get a 2000 for like $8k-$12k

well the 2nd and 3rd ones are VW bug flat four 1.6 liter powered trikes...the first one is just crazy. I saw a vw trike with 2 foot wide drag radials in Kansas city once...1.6 power with dual carbs...(75-100 h.p.)

I have a good drivers side fiberglass one. I'll trade it for a good metal one. My bucket has the 3 holes and tabs for headlight covers (could be covered).

Your Z is really cool Darius! I am doing a black lower half and a darker red upper half. Good luck!

I had the same problem...I one day was getting horrid gas mileage (8mpg) so I opened the hood and discovered that there was gasoline all over my engine bay and was peeling up paint even on the oil filter. It turned out that my mechanical fuel pump diaphragm had cracked. Since then there has been no smell at all. I also had my gas tank acid dipped and recoated at a local radiator shop for $120.

the shocks are easy...just go to summit or someplace... To bend the tubing like that you would need a scroll tubing bender...$$$$ or you could get a new warrior dune buggy chassis with prebent tubes for $250 and then modify it with control arms instead of the VW bug running gear and maybe a SR20DET out back with a front wheel drive tranny. it would not be THAT hard. just don't weld on the roll tubes on top and you are set.

yeah...they start at like 45 kawhalops... it costs about 8-12 kawhalops to get a good Z... just go buy a Celica front clip and a dune buggy chassis and go to town. time to start the redneck atom build...

I saw the video a while back...pretty cool. here is a link to the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdkEV-t9jg0

here is my dash right after I bent it. You can see how the left half is off because I did not measure correctly before I bent but it can be fixed. The right side is perfect. here is a side view with the top flat. I just need to trim the bottom side and it should be ready to go in.

Oh I forgot to ask. Are the guages made to install on a flat surface? I know that with their fancy metal cluster it does but I just want to mount them individually on my flat aluminium dash.

I was just looking at those guages for my Z...they are just a little expensive though. and eat those bananas before they go bad...

ok here is a few pictures. this was my FIRST attempt at rolling paint. way too thick and it never flattened out. here is a later attempt but I had the garage door open so bugs and dirt got in it. This is over paint instead of bare metal. at least it looks better than the paint on this truck... at first you think it looks like the MSA header but the pipes are much longer than the MSA ones. and the two outputs are staggered about 6 inches. And the hot air intake tube is in the wrong place.

SWEET!!! that sounds incredible!

So here is my idea. just vent the engine bay like has been talked about except...I think a floor should be made on the bottom of the wheelwells to keep air from the engine bay from just going under the car under the driver and passenger and evacuate it in like a Daytona coupe side vent. With the wheelwells sealed from the bottom then you won't have to worry about air going back under the car plus evacuating air out of the side or top of the fender reducing lift.

hmm. I am still thinking that I would like sidepipes but there are some things I would want to do. I would have to figure out how to get pipes on both sides of the car other than hanging them below the frame rails. The pipes would be the same as the real Daytina coupe pipes. The rockers and rear part of the front fenders would have to be cut and replaced with a dished piece:thus giving ground clearance. My car has to be functional and can't have the exhaust hanging down too low.

I am now looking at getting my new clutch worked out. I am looking at the ACT Extreme or heavy duty pressure plate in combination with a street non-puck disc. I am making a trip to a Nissan dealership to get new Balljoints and rod ends so I will get a new throwout bearing as well.

ok thanks. would the disc be intercangable? I figured the t/o bearing might be different. I'll go down to nissan tomorrow and put in an order for those. I need some new balljoints and rod ends as well.

I am going to order the clutch tomorrow. I can get the heavy duty pp for around $215-$230 alone. The extreme pp with street disc kit was $375 or so and the Heavy duty version was $319. Since the kit comes with all your bearings I would like to replace those. Do I use the 240sx t/o bearing and thrust bearing? or do I need oem stuff. Thanks

HE WAS!!! but he had to open the door to get the window rolled down...

I have a 260Z 4 speed with 6 BRAND NEW roll pins. The synchros are good too. I removed the gearbox from the bellhousing and replaced all of the roll pins and inspected everything else. It needs a new main input bearing which I have and will be included with the tranny. I just could not remove the bearing with my small amount of tools. A professional shop could do it no problem.

are there any ZXs? if there is I am looking for the Borg Warner 81-83 5 speed and driveshaft from a 280zxt. Can't think of any S30 parts that I ned right now except well maybe a metal drivers side headlight bucket. And if they have some headlight covers...well that is not likely.

oh yeah...the gas door I would pull too. There seems to be a lack of them in the local Z junkyard. They took $40 from me for a gas door and one of those big early gas caps. Since I drove off with mine sitting on a hatch louver...stupid me...press-and-seal works for about 36 hours before gas turns it into junk.

yeah...that is what I noticed! that is probably the cleanest stock efi setup I have seen on any Z that was not all new...

I saw a picture of a 30's car over on the moparts website that looked pretty good. Looks like a spray can job but much more even. I had rattle can flat black for a while. It does get old in the summer with heat and this wimpy little Datsun fan...I hope the red will be a little nicer this summer